Transmission

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Transmission
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By chris edy on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 01:23 pm:

What is the best way to un-stick clutch I have a original 24 Roadster that I got out of a barn a year or so ago. Got it running But I have to jack it up start it and press the brake several times then it works fine but when it sits for days I have to do it again . My tractor Crawler did the same until I cleaned the clutch with Carb cleaner and it works fine Would it be OK to drain oil and fill with Karosine or something and rotate it not start it. I do not want to take it apart could it be a gummed up clutch


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 01:58 pm:

If applying the brake loosens it up, its not stuck hard. Kerosene or diesel sounds like something I would try. Its not very flamable, just be sure to drain it well afterwards. I'd keep it in there a good while, but wouldn't run the engine. Turn it over with the crank ever so often. Thats what I'd do.
I knew a guy that washed out his crankcase with 6 quarts of gasoline after he drained the oil. He turned the engine over with the crank slowly. Sometimes you wonder about people.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 02:11 pm:

On Richard Gould's same note, be careful not to use a hot solvent such as lacquer thinner to break an engine loose as the lacquer thinner will attack the coating insulating the coil ring coils and destroy it. I don't know of anyone who has ever done this, but I'm sure it has happened in the past and history is notorious for repeating itself. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ROBERT BERGSTADT on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 03:21 pm:

Also try parking it with the emergency brake in high gear that will push the oil out of the clutch plates, but remember, put the emergency brake on before trying to start it, Bob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By JohnH on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 07:10 pm:

Try ordinary engine degreaser - I used this to clean the clutch plates to lessen the need to jack the back wheel up when starting for the first time each day.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 07:57 pm:

The Ford manual actually instructs owners to flush the crankcase with one gallon of kerosene during oil changes so you probably will do no harm.

If the clutch discs are varnished and/or corroded and sticking, I would think letting the car idle in neutral for long periods would polish the discs over time.

Even with all the proper and correct adjustments, if the transmission is worn out it may not be possible to get a free enough neutral to start the engine when the oil is cold.

You would think that a worn out transmission would give a free and loose neutral, but my experience is the exact opposite is true. This is probably due to the design of the transmission.

It can be caused by one or more things including jagged cleats on the drums causing the clutch discs to hang up, warped clutch discs and I believe sagging of the transmission assembly due to worn drum bushings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Conklin on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 09:53 pm:

On a pre 1926 the discs can wear notches in the drum hindering there movement. If this is the case it is posable that some of the discs are broken.
Thick oil such as 20-50 can make them hard to crank.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 06:29 am:

Chris,

When you refill it with oil use a 5W-30 grade of whatever brand you prefer. It will help the clutch action immensely.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kenny Edmondson, Indianapolis on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 07:00 am:

Drive it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 09:57 am:

My 1919 sat in a barn for 46 years (1964 to 2010) with oil in the transmission.
Before I tried to start it I drained the oil and flushed the motor and transmission with kerosene.

I put in enough so I could see it at the fill hole, moved the ebrake handle back and forth to exercise the clutch but did not attempt to rotate the crankshaft.

If flushing with Kerosene was good enough at an oil change (per Henry) it was good enough for me to use.

After sitting for a few days I drained the kerosene for about an hour and then refilled it with more kerosene and drained it again.
This time I jacked up the front of the car to get as much as possible out and poured a few quarts of oil thru the motor to help dilute any kerosene that might be left.

Finally I filled the motor with the correct amount of oil and changed it after it ran for about an hour.

MY clutches don't stick.

If flushing with kerosene was good enough during an oil change (per Henry) it is good enough for me to do when I'm trying to clean the motor.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By chris edy on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 01:35 pm:

Thanks Folks I will try all Quite a car for sitting so long See it at facebook https://www.facebook.com/TinLizzyRestoration It has the tire mount that I here is somewhat rare Thanks again for all your input


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