Wheel bearings

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Wheel bearings
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 07:16 pm:

two newbie threads in one day!

I removed the front wheels to get some weight off as I am replacing perch/leaf spring shackels..

This is what came out of the wheels...hardware 1

The spindles also look different from each other, but I suppose they both be ok? I have attached a photo of each: right spindleleft spindle

The bearings look nothing like what I see in the service manual.

Two questions...How do I remove what's left of the races in the wheels? Also, as I look at what the vendors are selling, there seems to be a variety. Can someone maybe tell me what part numbers I need to order...to from this link list under parts customers also ordered: http://www.modeltford.com/item/2838.aspx

Thanks guys!

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 07:31 pm:

Michael-
You might need some heat to remove the rest of that bearing race.

The earlier hearings are ball bearings, later Ford changed to roller bearings.

IIRC, the ball bearings and races can be swapped out for roller bearings and races.

Threads on the driver side are kinda buggered up. I hope is is not there the bearing on nuts sits.

: ^ )

Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 07:47 pm:

Front inner cup: Ford #2833; Timken #14273
Front inner bearing: Ford #2834; Timken #14120
Front outer cup: Ford #2836; Timken #09194
Left outer bearing: Ford #2837; Timken #09075
Right outer bearing:Ford #2838; Timken #09076

The least costly source is probably Rock Auto Parts if they have any of these in stock. An online search should find most of these parts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 08:01 pm:

The spindle with the cone/race still on it is an earlier style spindle.

The other spindle with "flats" on it came later and is designed to make knocking the cone off easier.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 08:15 pm:

Thanks for the help.....So, do the old races just get knocked out from behind?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 08:15 pm:

Michael

Get a copy of the Service Bulletin Essentials to go with your copy of Ford Service. Those 2 reprints will really benefit the work you do on the Ford.



How to change from early roller ball to later taper front bearings.



Later taper front bearing, these are an improvement Ford made from the early ball bearing.



Books that are really nice to have....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 09:50 pm:

Michael,

The ball bearings are what originally came with your 1916. They were replaced with the roller bearings first in the trucks, then the cars equipped with starters (i.e. closed cars) and demountables. The roller bearings were still used in the "loss leader" roadster and tourings that were sold without demountable wheels and without a starter/generator to sometime around 1925 ref: http://mtfca.com/encyclo/U-Z.htm#fwhubs .

You can still easily purchase the ball bearings for the inner and outer sides of the wheels see:
http://www.modeltford.com/item/2811.aspx
and
http://www.modeltford.com/item/2810.aspx
The ball bearing races are harder to find but they are also available. If you races are good and you do not want them -- there are folks that are still using them successfully on the lighter cars (tourings etc).

If there are no pits on the race -- I would leave it on the spindle. You can tape it off if you want to paint the spindle.

In addition to the Service Bulletins that Dan mentions, for the pre-starter cars I like "The Model T FordOwner" by Murray Fahnestock see: http://www.modeltford.com/item/P9.aspx [Note P7 is the Service Bulletins that Dan mentioned.] Some of Fahnestock's comments are just fun to read but not really helpful today, but many of them are very helpful today.

Glad to see you making progress on the car. Be sure to get the spring perches installed correctly so the car has positive caster (about 5 1/2 degrees see:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/80333.html?1233523419 And yes the parts fit ok -- they just make it dangerous to drive the car if you install them wrong. For that matter if you take the spindle arms off you can swap the spindles and instead of the wheel bearing tending to loosen as you drive forward it tends to tighten. No it doesn’t always tighten up – but it does it often enough that you do not want to take the chance. There have been several wheels locked up or hubs split or both because of that. See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/80333.html?1233523419

Good luck with your car and if you have questions ask -- it is a lot easier than redoing the assembly later.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 10:55 pm:

Thanks all...

I have the encyclopedia and manuals that are included with the MFCTA 2 disc set. I also have hard copies of Model T service - which I am wearing out in my shop, Bruce's book, Murray's book, and all of the MFCTA guides (Chaffin).

I do go to these, and they are very helpful. However, when I'm really stuck, there is nothing like this group.

I think I'll switch over to the tapered bearings, and will try and save what I can of the old races if anyone needs them. Getting them out may be a bear though - we'll see.

In the meantime, I won the battle with getting the old bearings out of the perches and getting the new original (200+ dollars!) shackles on. Just waiting on the back ordered brass oilers! This is a topic of the other thread I started today, and I'll follow up there as well with photos tomorrow.

You guys are great! Please keep pushing if you think I'm missing something!

My best to all...

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 10:19 am:

Michael,
When you switch to roller bearings, you'll need to order new spindle washers. The roller bearings require a thinner washer.


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