Steering Column variations

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Steering Column variations
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Howard on Sunday, July 22, 2012 - 03:04 am:

Hi all, I'm another new member based in Australia, and just about to start putting together a 25 Roadster from the pile of rusty tin I have been collecting over the past 20 odd years. I have a number of steering columns and Firewalls, and notice that some of the flanges where the steering column bolts to the firewall are round and some rectangular. Can someone tell me what the difference is, if it was a change in production , when did it happen?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Sunday, July 22, 2012 - 03:21 am:

The steering columns with the rectangular flange are 26/27. Round flanged columns are earlier.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Sunday, July 22, 2012 - 03:23 am:

http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/S-T.htm#steer


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Howard on Sunday, July 22, 2012 - 06:32 am:

Thanks for the reference and information...thought it must be something like that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Sunday, July 22, 2012 - 09:08 pm:

Good’day Tony,

All that has been posted is correct. But when you are building up a chassis in general if you use all the parts from the same year range it fits correctly and you will not need to make any shims/wedges etc. to make it line up. If the parts are already on a rusty chassis – that makes it easier. Usually but not always the parts are close to working together. The main exception would be if the chassis was wrecked – the parts may have caused the accident.

Some parts can be mixed and matched with good success. For example the 5:1 steering ration that came with the 1926-27 steering column with the rectangular base, can be used on the earlier 1915 steering columns very easily. It fits well and changes the steering from 4:1 to 5:1 for a little more “controlled” steering. The vendors offer a kit to install the later 5:1 steering ratios in the earlier steering cases. And for 1925 both styles were uses with the balloon tire models coming with the 5:1 steering ratio [at least the USA ones – Canadian exports to Australia may have done it differently. If anyone knows, please share that with us.

In your case I would guess you are putting together a RHD 1925 roadster – is that correct? And are you going for a 1925 Dalgety bodied roadster produced at Geelong or one of the earlier local body builders bodies that probably were still produced and sold in early 1925. Or something else?

Caution there are several different lower steering column supports and they look similar but are NOT interchangeable without shimming/adding wedges etc.

First a non-generator one that was used up until 1919 or 20 and that does not have enough room for a standard generator to be mounted. Initially Ford Canada got around that by using a belt driven generator hung on the left side of the engine.

Second style RHD lower steering column support for the Ton Truck (TT).

Third style RHD lower steering column support was for use with the generator mounted on the engines. If off set the steering column enough to just squeeze by the generator. Would have been used 1920ish to 1925.

Fourth style RHD for the 1926-27 improved cars – all except the Fordor Sedan.

Fifth style the RHD for the 1926-27 Fordor sedan. The chassis had been lowered but the Fordor sedan body was basically about the same as the 1925 Fordor with a different cowl.

Sixth for Australia – many of the local body builders used one of those steering bracket above along with a wedge on the frame and behind the steering column flange to line things up.

I need help/confirmation that the Dalgety bodies used the standard 1925 Canadian steering bracket – I do not have that documented one way or the other.

Additionally many of the other steering parts fit multiple years but not necessarily correctly. Again for the USA cars you need to be sure you have the correct drag link and tie rod parts. The drag link came in different lengths. You need to make sure the spindles are correct left and right. That the spring perches are correct left and right so the spindle / front wheel caster is positive.

For additional details please see:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/24786.html discusses fitting different year parts for steering and firewall and the problems it creates. It can be done – but it is not a direct bolt on – you will need shims/wedges/or new holes etc.

Similar high hood firewall vs improved car firewall see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69326.html?1224293232

How you can use the later 5:1 steering gear case on the earlier cars: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/83086.html?1238515252

spring perches, one, both, or none can be installed correctly. See also http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/20557.html?1163256403 and the cautions about putting the wrong spindle on the wrong side.

Royce’s recent posting on drag lengths are different lengths – note USA discussion but should have a similar Canadian mirror image discussion for the RHD cars. See: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/300409.html

Setting up the front axle correctly: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40382.html


Early 1911 to 1919ish spindle arms are straight and the 1919ish -1927 are curved up to clear the wishbone that is attached under the axle.

Look out for any British Drop Frame parts – they are different from the others.

Good luck with your project. Lots of folks have built them up from parts or rusted chassis. Just be sure the parts are compatible with each other and in good condition.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Howard on Monday, July 23, 2012 - 05:49 am:

Hap. Many thanks for your reply and links provided. I have had some contact from local enthusiasts, and its really a great response.. very pleased that this site has yielded the responses directed to me. Your assumption re RH drive '25 model is correct. The wood work will be the first obstacle to overcome..I had intended to try to emulate the Dalgetty body as you described, and have been fortunate enough to be referred to a gent in my area who is currently working on a similar project. Most of the cars I collected were from the outback country where I worked over a long period...large isolated sheep and cattle runs where broken down vehicles were abandoned, and termites and weather got to the wood work, destroying any trace.So I have no pattern to go by. I will certainly be referring to this site and using the links you provided and no doubt checking out other questions and answers. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Regards Tony


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