Looking for info, pictures, etc for how to adapt the choke rod/mixture control for a Model A Tilliston carb on a 'T'. The carb angle is such that the rod will come into the car around the top of the floorboard. Any help appreciated.
Bob
Did that once many years ago with a zenith. Took a couple of 1/4" drive socket u-joints and a little brazing to make the adapter - John
I did it with a (short section of) speedometer cable.
Robert,
I am running a Tilliston carb. with no-name aluminum manifold on my 13 touring and like how it performs. Still get 20 MPG and it does not load up when idling.
Added a 1/8" rod for adjustment that goes thru a hole in the floorboard lining up with the carb. I made a small brass knob that is held in place with a small set screw. the brass knob sits just above the floor matt where it can be turned for carb. adjustment.
To remove the floor board/matt, the brass knob must be removed first and the floor board slide up and over the 1/8" adjustment rod.
It was simple and works.....I was un-able to make 1/4" universal socket joints work properly coupled with the original adjustment knob.
Speedometer cable is a great idea. Love it.
Robert, this is how i did it.
32 Ford had a dash mounted cable type assembly. You could turn it to adjust the mixture and pull it to use the choke. The carb end looks like a Model A rod that has been cut off and mounted to the cable.
Hi Robert. I had the same problem with the Tillotson carb on my racer - the choke/idle mixture rod wouldn't line up with the carb shaft. Lucky I had some flexible tuning shafts leftover from some vintage communications gear I'd bought years ago. They were about 4" long and had 1/4" phenolic connectors with setscrews on each end. They worked perfectly without having to modify at all. Don't know how to describe them but they're like a tightly wound spring with fittings on each end. The photo shows the overhead view which doesn't show much deviation in the path ... the side view is where the misalignment was. My carb linkage works nice when rotating for dialing in the mixture as well as pulling for choke.
Maybe a speedometer shop would have a scrap length of flexible cable you could have for a buck or two that would fit - you'd just have to make two fittings like the brown phenolic ones shown below that would take the roughly 1/8" speedo cable in one end and then a larger 1/4" hole on the other end of each connector to accept the linkages. That's something you only need a drillpress to make up along with some aluminum or brass round stock.
Regards,
Garnet