AC Brakes

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: AC Brakes
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Strickling on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 06:23 pm:

Are AC brakes still being made? If so where can I purchase them?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed in California on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 07:09 pm:

Larry Sidmore makes them, 209 533 9207 I believe only small drum, large drum ones are scarce.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 07:48 pm:

No connection...for big drum...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330768141484?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m142 3.l2649


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Williams on Tuesday, July 24, 2012 - 10:56 pm:

I have a set of the Larry Sidmore ones. They are well made, good quality.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Strickling on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 09:42 am:

Are there installation instructions available? I have heard that they do not come with.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ed in California on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 09:57 am:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Susanne on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 06:11 pm:

(And just in case you were squinting over the above...)

DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLING BRAKES

Remove rear wheels and clean all paint from drum surface. If drum is out-of-round, or badly rust-pitted, replace it.

Remove Lock Nut on the parking brake support bolt; also the lower nut holding the rear radius rod to rear axle. Drive out Radius Rod bolt and substitute longer on which comes with Brakes. Do not remove Radius Rod as the Brake Bracket fits over this.

Install brakes by slipping unit under lower edge of Backing Plate. (Do not dismantle Brake Assembly). Tighten nuts and slip wheels on to check alignment of Brakes. Due to differences in the Ford Rear Axle Castings, it is sometimes necessary to place thin washers as shims between the Backing Plate and the A-C brake Bracket to obtain correct alignment, and so that the Brake Band will track true on the drum. . . This is very important.

Installing Linkage

Brake pedal should have about five (5) inches of travel before hitting floor boards to give the correct leverage.
1. Take the pedal clamp bracket and fasten it to the angled portion of the brake pedal so that the clevis hole is at the top.
2. Install walking beam support around the drive shaft tube directly behind where the universal joint housing casting meets the drive shaft tubing. This Flange will prevent the supports from creeping when the brakes are applied.
3. Install linkage rod from brake pedal to the upper hole in the walking beam, adjusting so that the walking beam has a slight pitch to the rear when brake pedal is released. On 1921-25 Fords, this must be set so as not to hit the running board bracket when the brakes are applied.
4. Fasten turnbuckle and equalizer to the next lower hole in the walking beam.
5. Feed the cable through the equalizer and back through the activating lever on the rear brake. Tighten securely with the set screw. Install return springs from the lever arm to rear spring perches. If car is equipped with accessory shock absorbers, springs will have to be improvised.
6. Adjust turnbuckle until cable is snug.
7. Adjust brakes so there is no drag when released. When lining is new, it will take a day or two to wear down the high spots.

IMPORTANT:

1. A common problem with Model T’s is worn axle shaft tapers which allow the wheel to (sit) in too far. If the inside edge of the brake drum extends past the backing plate, it will be necessary to make a shim for the axle taper to bring the drum to the correct position. A piece of tin from an old can is fine for this.
2. It is advisable to remove the stock Ford transmission Brake Band tor educe drag.
3. Good rear axle seals are a MUST. Grease or Oil will ruin the Brake lining in a very short time. WE RECOMMEND OUR REAR AXEL SEALS!
4. Tighten all jam nuts on the linkage securely or the threads will quickly strip out of the clevises and turnbuckles.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve in Tennessee on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 06:55 pm:

Larry does provide installation instructions and some information from the period about external band brakes.

Unless he has changed things he only supplies the brackets and bands. That is to say he does not provide a linkage to the brakes so you have to either find that somewhere or invent something on your own. I did the latter.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike conrad on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:18 pm:

Tom, I have mid 20's chev outside brakes on my speedster seem to work great. Don't have pic's of the conversion but it looks easy as the bands fit good on a large drum rear end and the T backing plates are used with new holes drilled for the chev. brake brackets. Best of all they also work great in reverse unlike some aftermarket brakes. not sure finding the parts may be all that easy but I am sure they will be cheap. A friend have found all the parts to put on his car for around 50 bucks. Just a thought. Good Luck


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ross Benedict - Calgary, Alberta on Thursday, July 26, 2012 - 02:05 am:

Larry, sells you a set "for display purposes only". What you do with them is your responsibility. Price is kept down as no insurance is required by manufacturer of 'display material'. By the way they work great!!I had then put on my small drum T last year and think they are a good addition to a driver.


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