I have an aftermarket bronze fuel shutoff valve pre-carb on my 1922. Its a basic valve you would buy at any hardware store.
Has anyone had experience with these becoming difficult to turn? This is the second valve i have installed, and both worked easily and smoothly - easily turned by hand - for quite awhile (months). Then suddenly they became hard to open or close - almost need a tool.
Since it happened this time during a long hot tour, i am thinking heat may be the culprit??
The thing is, once it tightens up it remains tight, no matter the temp.
Any ideas or valve recommendations?
thanks.
I have the same problem on my 23 touring
It's the EPA gas we use today. Lots of agents in the gas that drys and sticks that valve.
Spray some silicone oil or other lube on the handle/joint and work it a few times, that will free it up again. Left standing for a while the valve will stick again, so apply more lube each time it turns hard. It's a Model T...needs lots of oil all the time
Try some Fels Naptha or other brown soap on it, it seal and lubricates. John
Get one of these from Texas T Parts
Got one from a vendor. All brass replaces the right angle in let( has a flat handle) .Worked good for a summer then got so hard to turn i must use a pliers to turn it now.
Bill
I just put a valve like the one John has shown on my '11 touring. The reproduction all brass valves aren't made good enough to keep from dripping on the ground (I tried two), and after a carburetor fire last fall, I decided I wanted a valve that didn't leak and I could close easily in an emergency. It's not authentic but I feel good about no leaks and I won't twist the handle off while the car is on fire.
I also have one of the all brass sold by several vendors. Leaks badly and hard to turn. Just replaced it with a standard screw down until I can get one that is more reliable.
Check with a lawnmower place---plastic with barb fittings.
I do not have one of these valves. However, have you ever tried removing it and add a little oil to the valve, twist it back and forth to work it in. If it works, I suspect it to be dry fuel. If not, I wonder if the ethanol is swelling something in the valve. I add a bit of ATF to my gas, to lube my valve tran.
For original stock shut-off valves, bar soap (Dial, Ivory, Irish Spring, etc.) is an excellent lubricant and is not affected by gasoline.
Got this one from Langs about 5 years ago. Works real nice:
I have the same one as Royce shows in his picture(at least it sure looks the same). It's been on the truck for 5 or 6 years and I've had no problems at all with it.
Remember that these are handy and useful BUT They will never replace a functional valve at the tank in case of trouble with the fuel line to the carb.
I would never use one like Peterson shows. If you ever want to remove the carb for any reason you can not do it with the elbo type shut off without crawling under the car to shut off the gas. Install an inline shut off about an inch and a half back of the carb.
Try the EZ Turn lube available from vendors. It is designed for fuel systems. Take the valve apart and smear a light film on before assembly. You'll have to reapply about every two years for trouble free operation. This stuff also helps prevent leakage at the valve. The vacuum tank on my '28 Gardner used to drip itself dry over the winter until I put the EZ Turn inside the shutoff valve. Now it holds fuel for the 6 month storage time with no problems.
When turning the valve handle turn and lift at the same time rather than turning and pushing down.
That way you won't be driving the tapered parts together.
A small fiber hammer is useful for loosening stubborn valves. A few taps opposite the handle side will usually loosen their "grip".
I carry a pliars at all times.
Norm
Dave,
I still have the original shutoff on all of my cars at the sweet potato. It works just fine in case I ever need to swap carburetors.
I suspect some repos use brass or bronze for both pieces. A better design practice for plug valves is dissimilar metals like brass for the plug any bronze for the body. Either way, the EZ Turn lube will fix you right up. I would be careful with any hammers. Doesn't take much to crack the carb casting in that area.