Pulling engine

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Pulling engine
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 04:49 pm:

I'll be pulling the engine on the 1919 I just purchased and wondered if I can do so without removing the firewall. All my experience has been with early Fords and its pretty easy to remove the firwall with the steering column in place. The 1919 has a wood firewall attached to a cowl, and of course, a starter and generator. I am most concerned about whether the transmission cover will clear the hole in the firewall. I have a bad back and don't relish the idea of pulling the transmission cover until the engine assembly is in the stand. The manual shows it done with a metal firewall so I am unsure.
What's the best way to proceed?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Vince M on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 04:56 pm:

Richard,

I have a low hood 22, and removed the engine easily with the firewall in place. I did have to cut a small notch for the motor mounts (ears) to clear at the frame location.

Vince m


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 05:56 pm:

What about the steering shaft? I'm about to do the same job on the '18 Touring.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 06:19 pm:

Thanks Vince. I think I'll pull the firewall now that you've explained I'd have to cut it to clear the pan arms. I had a 1916 once and the firewall was adhered to the cowl with some sort of black tar like substance that sealed it against water. The firewall wouldn't separate from the cowl. I had to lift the body off the frame in the front to remove the engine. I don't see that stuff on the 19 so I am hoping that I can remove the firewall by removing the fasteners. I'll have to remove the steering column in any event and that will require some work. Nothing has ever been removed from this car.
I'd like to be done with the entire chassis by the HME in Pasadena but I don't know if I have the poop! Any work I do will not be noticeable when its all back together, no painting etc. I'll use all original parts if anything is replaced with the exception of new rings, new bushings, thrust washers and roller bearing sleeves. I hadn't planned on it but the good Lord must have figured it was time I do another mechanical restoration.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Conklin on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 06:26 pm:

You don't have to remove the steering column but if your working alone it may be easier.
The engine has to be slid forward in a fairly level plane until the mounting ears are forward of the firewall. The engine then has to be tilted up at a fairly steep angle to get the pedals to clear the firewall. (The pedals should be disconnected from the bands and clutch linkage so they can be moved around). You can do this alone but it is easier, safer, and with less chance of damage if you have a helper.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:11 pm:

Thanks guys. I've done this once before on my TT, but it was 5 years ago and I don't remember now if I had to remove the steering or not. The firewall on the Touring looks like it has enough clearance for the pan arms to come through. I may pull it anyway, as it is in pretty bad shape. May as well replace it while I'm doing the engine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gavin Harris on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:27 pm:

I've done it on my 18 both ways.

First time I left as much as possible in place; even though the bottom of the firewall is spaced clear of the chassis I still caught it with the pan ears and split bits off. The pedals also caught the firewall and caused some damage. I ended up removing many parts as I went.

Second time I removed as much as possible first. Taking everything out first created a bit more work at the start and end of the job but cut out the expletive factor. Much less stress.

With your beautiful car, I would remove anything that could get damaged; Fresh scratches and or paint repairs would not look good.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 07:34 pm:

I pulled the engine from my 16 Coupelet three weeks ago by removing the firewall (it had an incorrect 23 T engine in it). It didn't take much to get the firewall off. We pulled the steering wheel off and it came out as an assembly with the firewall.

Philip


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Wednesday, July 25, 2012 - 08:08 pm:

The original firewall on a black radiator car is designed in such a manner that it is clear of the pan arms when pulling the motor.

Years ago, my dad and I pulled the motor out of a '17 touring without removing the firewall. You slide and tilt the motor out exactly as shown in the Ford Service Manual and as described by Donald Conlkin above.

Once the pan arms cleared the firewall, we put 1/4" thick pieces of wood on the frame rails so we could rest the pan arms on the wood instead of marring up the frame rails.


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