I know this has been discussed before but I can not find the post. I just replaced the bolts on my hubs the old ones were in bad shape and some were of the nuts I was able to remove by hand. My drivers side wheel was making clicking noises so that is what prompted me to replace the bolts. Question how tight should I tighten the bolts? I remember seeing something that said 30 foot pounds but dosen't seem to be to tight. What are your all recommendations?
Dave
any help?
Dave - Use a 1/2 " ratchet & socket and tighten them as tight as you can - really tight, then pean the ends of the bolts down onto the nuts so the nuts don't loosen up.
By the way, I hope you didn't just put carriage bolts in your hubs, as they may not be strong enough. The T parts vendors sell the correct bolts.
What bolts do the rest of you use for this?
Keith
I use the bolts made by RV Anderson. I bought them from Lang. RV says they are grade 5 and if they are they will stand 30 foot lbs of torque if the threads are clean and dry. I torqued his bolts to 30 using a very accurate dial torque wrench that was new with a calibration sheet. 30 lbs is a lot of tight on those bolts and if they are grade 2 they will begin to stretch at about 25 - ask me how I know.
A tip I got from John was torque to 30, run awhile, torque to 30 again, repeat until the nuts won't turn at 30.
RV reproduces lots of different bolts and nuts for special applications on Model T's. They are exact copies of the originals, made from the Ford parts drawings. Running board bolts are another set he makes; different sets to be correct for different years. You can't go wrong getting your hardware from him.
Mike,
Does he have a catalog, or does he just sell to vendors?
Here's his contact info on the Coil Doctor website. His own site is undergoing reconstruction.
http://coildoctor.com/early_coils_rv_anderson_engineering
thanks for all your help
If you tighten the nuts too much, you warp the hub plate. Go easy.