Coil box WOOD coil box rebuild kit - soak in linseed oil???

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Coil box WOOD coil box rebuild kit - soak in linseed oil???
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 05:33 pm:

I did get a WOOD coil box (not the plastic) rebuild kit, as I was too cheap to cough up the extra $30 or so .. although I am sure it would have been worth it. I've read to soak it in linseed oil ... or boiled linseed oil ... or is that boil it in linseed oil??? Can someone advice me of the procedure? I would usually use tung oil, shellac, spar varnish, polyurethane, etc. .. but those have been suggested against?

I will probably keep my the polywood pieces I replaced, and use for a pattern to make a backup out of plastic .. but this wood kit will get me going. I really don't 'expect' to be driving around in the rain, but to say I would never get caught in it, would be silly.

Thanks,
Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Doolittle on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 05:45 pm:

Dennis, don't take this next statement as being critical, because that is not my intent.

A $30 savings is not always a savings.

One thing for sure, if you had gone with the plastic kit, it would have been the last kit you would ever purchase.

Once in awhile a superior product comes along and the Fun Projects plastic coil box kit is one of them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gordon Byers - Rangely CO on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 05:48 pm:

Dennis, when I replaced the wood with wood in my '27 coil box I coated the outside with polyurethane and then ran a tiny bead of clear silicone around the inside edges including where the 2 pieces mated. The box would have to get really wet for a prolonged time to cause a problem from moisture.
Gordon


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 05:57 pm:

Hi, John ...
Yes .. understood in the spirit of which it was ment.... and I agree! (I always tell that to my customers that are trying to be 'cheap' too!) .... but there simply wasn't another $30 to be had .. unless I waited another week or two. I do plan on going with the plastic, eventually, but I didn't want to drop another couple weeks on getting the ol' girl back on on the road. Then again ... at least I wasn't SO cheap, that I didn't just take measurements of my old one, and put it all back together with the new hardware. That would have worked .. for a while, also. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 05:58 pm:

Hey .. if someone wants to by my spare motor ... I could up my repair kitty! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 06:45 pm:

Having done the FunProjects Kit and loving it. I don't see anything wrong with Gorden's way. Clear Polyurethane on outside surf. only and silc. the seams. Do not use any black paint on the wood.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 07:04 pm:

Dennis,

Most of us face having to make trade offs with our cars and other things going on in our lives. For some it is extra cost to upgrade from wood to the better/more reliable Fun Projects coil box rebuild. For others having to go with a Z-head rather than an overhead. And for many of us – it is after the wife’s items are purchased. They can be so unreasonable sometimes -- saying things like groceries are more important than car parts etc. Note if you can return the wood kit and apply it towards the cost of the Fun Projects style – that would be my recommendation. A couple of folks also used the “cutting board” available for Walmart etc to replace some of the wood. Below are some previous postings for your consideration:

From an earlier posting at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/73911.html?1227974552 Dan Treace “Just finish the wood in varnish, thinned first coat, and then a second. Good quality marine varnish.
If you paint the wood you risk occurrence of electrical path discharge or grounding as most blacks have carbon in them.
….Did these before the FunProjects all thermoplastic kits, no fear of moisture and the dark red brown of those plastic panels looks rather good on the exposed '26-27 coil boxes. And a second post by Dan at: Also at: http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=118802&post=214257

At: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/260915.html?1326948765 linseed oil was mentioned but that was for the actual coil and not the coil box . Again for the coil but not addressing the coil box see: http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=118802&post=216942
Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 07:22 pm:

Linseed oil might be fine creating a shine on a piece of furniture in your bedroom. In the environment of a car, being used outdoors, in hot and cold conditions, and exposed to water, it is not suitable. It will evaporate and leave the wood unprotected.

A good polyurethane spar varnish is infinitely better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Doolittle on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 07:28 pm:

Dennis- I cut corners, too, when I can.

But, through my mistakes, I have found there are certain areas where cutting corners come back and bite me in the butt. Being cheap is one thing, but even if you only drive it locally you will always have faster cars behind you and carbon tracks always short the system at the wrong time. A shorted coil box can stop your T dead in it's tracks.

Mine shorted on the Rapid City Tour. Bad time! I pulled 2000 miles, spent $$$$ on diesel & motel- then had the coil box short out.

Don't cut corners in areas of restoration that jeopardize SAFETY.

Some folks can and will testify that they get by, and they do, but it's a gamble.

Avoid:
1. Anything but the best in a coil box repair.

2. Thinking that one day if the old original radiator is flushed enough, and if I tinker enough with the timing, I can get that old T to run cool.
3. There are others that I have not found yet.

If you don't presently have the funds available, then wait until you do.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 08:41 pm:

How often will you be driving in the rain? If boiled linseed oil is good enough for the coils then it's good enough for the coil box wood!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 08:50 pm:

Dennis,
To answer your question, boiled linseed oil is sold that way. Old timers believed in it for preserving wood, like in the bed of a truck. You wipe or brush it on and let it sit for a while, then wipe the excess off. I was taught to apply it once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, then annually thereafter! I put a few coats on the coil box wood for the 15 I built recently. I had the wood kit on hand, so I used it--I'll use the plastic kit next time I need to rebuild one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Saturday, July 28, 2012 - 10:09 pm:

Very good, all.
I"ve used linseed oil on furniture and even chopping blocks. I've used tung oil in about the same fashion for lots of small wood projects. You apply the same way , and end up building up a nice luster.
Yes, I agree with all ... the plastic upgrade kit would be much better, and I will certainly do it. Next time. Once I get a few other key things done ... that might be much sooner, than later! I'm a purist on a lot of things, but I"m not afraid to use the plastic (probably the wrong term, actually) for something like this as it has decided advantages. It really isn't that big of a deal to take the box out and re-do. I'll do that 10 times before I want to pull a rear end and do a full teardown! :-)

I'm sure this will be just fine for the little putzing around I do in the subdivision. Once I get comfortable enough with the driving ... and stopping, and build up the rest of the needed repairs to suit. I'll be ready for the bigger roads and little trips. Then I can invest another couple hours on a rebuild, and will most likely have a good backup to boot.

Anyone find any benefit to using some sort of waterproofing on the (new) fabric plug wires? I could soak in linseed oil, and coat with spar varnish! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 10:32 am:

If you ever get caught in a good downpour, I would hope your coatings, what ever they are work! I've been that route, and will use one of Johns new kits every time. There is nothing worse that trying to drive a 2 or 3 cylinder Model T, when you and the car are all wet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 11:12 am:

I agree!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 11:41 am:

Dennis,
I found a formula in a Fine Woodworking magazine many years back and have used it numerous times. It was 1/2 part Marine Spar Varnish (not polyurethane), 1/4 part Boiled Linseed Oil, and 1/4 Turpentine. I use this as the first coat on the new front door of my house and then followed (as the article said) in about a week with straight marine Spar Varnish. It turned out beautiful! I've also prepared wood parts for painting with the formula (just the "primer" part) and shot automotive paint over the top of it. I think the key is to let it dry at least a week. I have used straight Marine Spar Varnish on coil box wood and have used the above method as well. I have also used clear Glyptal on coil box wood. Glyptal is a dielectric. Years ago, I got a T wet in a rainstorm. (It would have had straight Marine Spar Varnish on it.) We took the coil box off the car, took the coils out, and left it in a garage in 100+ summer heat for 30 days to air dry. You would think it would have dried out but nope. We installed the coil box back on the car and took it to a tour only to find out it wasn't dry yet! I like the idea of the Fun Projects kit and plan on trying one soon. I will say, we own three T's we tour with extensively for many years (clear back to 1959) and all have wood with varnish on them. The Marine Spar Varnish may be hard to find. Most places want to carry polyurethane. The last Marine Spar Varnish I found was at Lowe's.
Verne


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:07 pm:

Why would anyone not want to use Valspar Polyurethane Marine Spar varnish? Too easy to apply? Not enough drama? Dries in about two hours, is that too fast? Too durable? Too easy to find since it is sold at virtually every hardware outlet? Maybe you hate that it is Made in the USA?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:23 pm:

I've used it many times ... for spars, nonetheless! I honestly can't remember if it was a polyurethane flavor or what. I just know it works well. ... at least for sailboat masts. I have't sailed in 20+ years .. and haven't used it since, though. Good stuff! I ended up using Bulls Eye shellac, as that's what I had. I can't tell you the different products relative resistance to the carbon tracking, though.

I hate being add and working on the T ... "oh look ... a shinny quarter ....or gee, let me fix this piece of wiring .. then this one ... and the ammeter and switch while I'm at it. Might as well see why the horn doesn't work well ... LOL

Well, the ol' girl SHOULD be a might better off when I get done with all this wiring! I might venture to guess things will start working right again!

Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 07:00 pm:

Chris Elliot compares satin to gloss polyurethane varnish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5CJBeIKUvA


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 07:36 pm:

Well ... there ya have it! LOL ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 11:23 pm:

Dennis, the wood will work just fine. What do you mean by new hardware? I ask because the origional contacts are far better than the new ones.

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 07:59 am:

Stephen ...

I kept the contacts, although did order them. When I saw they didn't look as solid as the originals, I went looking more on the forums, which confirmed ... keep them! They were in good shape. I did use the new through-the-firewall copper clad steel bolts, though, as the old ones were badly corroded at the contacts. I soldered the new bolts to the cleaned up contacts, to help avoid issues there, next time. So, the bolts, their nuts, and the wood, are new. The contacts and ceramic standoffs, I kept. I think the next time I need spark plug wires, I'll make myself, so the ends are easier to solder! I'm not fond of the simply crimped ends.

Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 01:52 pm:

I find it very interesting that obvious, non-period correct coil box materials that improves performance does not spur the same emotional cries of protest and condemnation from the purists as does a hidden, non-period correct ignition electrical component which improves performance.

Improved performance, I'm told, is strictly verboten on a vintage automobile unless it can be achieved with period correct technology. The nuances of period correct hardware is part of the experience to be savored not improved upon with modern technology. Go figure…….


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 04:19 pm:

Yes, Mike ...

I was somewhat surprised, as well. I DID, however order the 'hardwood upgrade', version. I have not researched what the original material was made of. Mine was plywood, but I wouldn't doubt if it had been rebuilt at some time. Out of the 4 coils ... 3 are slightly different.

That being said. I'm not dead set against using more modern materials, MYSELF. To each his own, I guess. My machine is not a museum piece, where I WOULD be concerned with being as 'echte' (true to the origin)as possible. I just want as dependable of a driver as possible. In which case I SHOULD have gone with the plastic/nylon/whatever. But .. $30 was $30. My next replacement will be the modern one.

I too, was a bit surprised, however! Everyone, at least, was making an argument for safety .. it's hard to argue with that. Brake lights will likely be on my short list as well .. and probably as un-garish as possible turn signals. If you want to drive in the current world, I think some concessions should be allowed for safety's sake.

Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 04:27 pm:

Mike,

The Fun Projects replacement coil box kit retains 100% funcionality of the Ford ignition system. It's a good thing, I have installed several of them on my cars and on other people's cars. For those of us who are more interested in driving and reliability, it makes sense.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Kossor on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 05:26 pm:

Dennis,

I do like the look of the solid oak coil box wood but do understand its limitations. Hopefully you will be successful with yours with minimal performance issues until the modern once is in place.

Royce,

I can't take issue with your logic, it does make sense. The fact it employs non-period correct technology to improve performance remains and does so without exciting wide spread revolt is what I find interesting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 01:17 pm:

Well, that's what happens when we think we know how people will react to given product. We get so convinced of the proven benefits that we can't imagine anyone else seeing things differently. Scores of marketing execs with big degrees make wrong assumptions too. No matter what you're selling, you can't possibly expect everyone concerned to stand in line to get their copy. Human nature.


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