Crank sleeve position

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Crank sleeve position
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lee Crenshaw Richmond Va. on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 01:41 pm:

The crank sleeve on my '10 is loose in the pan. How far should it protrude at the front of the pan? Should I braze it in place?
Thanks,
Lee


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 02:05 pm:

The bushing should be even with the front of the pan. Maybe, put in a new bushing?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By lee crenshaw on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 02:23 pm:

Herm, your quick response is appreciated. Is this sleeve made from turned-down 1/2" black pipe?
Lee


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 03:39 pm:

Can't get to one easily now to measure, but they're cheap from the suppliers: http://www.modeltford.com/item/3903.aspx
If the hole in the pan is worn so the press fit is lost, you may be able to glue a new bushing in place with loctite or some epoxi.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Val Soupios on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:43 pm:

I believe you can get them as a split sleeve so you can just spread it a little and then press it in for a tight fit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 03:13 am:

A major word of advice. However you replace that sleeve. Whatever you replace it with. Make sure it ends up centered with the front of the crankshaft. The holes wear off center from cranking. You cannot simply drill out what is there and weld a replacement in.
Don't ask me how I know this. But I didn't do it. A trusted machinist "friend" did.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 11:02 am:

That is unusual! Usually they are impossible to remove.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 03:44 am:

I wouldn't braze it, that may melt the solder in the front oil damn in the pan. JMHO. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kerry van Ekeren (Australia) on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 04:28 am:

do 1910 pans have a soldered dam?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 03:00 pm:

The replacement I purchased from a parts vendor was terrible. The OD was not round and was too large to compress into place. Also the ID was way too big, no better than the sloppy one I was trying to replace. I made my own from some bronze bearing I had laying around.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Glen Chaffin on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 12:53 am:

I don't know where you guys buy you parts but we have never had a problem with a new crank sleeve. They are round steel with a split or seam down one side and fit perfectly. They should be installed flush with the front of the pan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 07:31 am:

I just found one of the vendor supplied crank sleeves in a box of nice-to-have parts. It has about 0.985-0.990" outer diameter, 0.752-0.760" inner diameter. My worn cranks varies in diameter from 0.720 to 0.740" and given the low cost design of the T, these crank sleeves tend to work good giving an authentic loose - but not worn out - fit for the hand crank :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lee Crenshaw Richmond Va. on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 07:18 pm:

Gentlemen, many thanks for so numerous replies.
I was able to slip the sleeve to the rear
and slide it out. I then flipped it end-for-end
and found a drive fit. Ought to go another 'hundered years.
Kerry, it's been a while since I had a close look at the front of the pan, but I recall seeing an excess of solder around the front dam of the pan.
Thanks again to all,
Lee


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