Just got my first T !

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Just got my first T !
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:30 pm:

I've been looking at Ts for a couple months. Every time I found one I liked it was either in Timbuktu, out of my price range or the seller changed his mind. But last week a '23 touring car came up locally by a respected member of the model T hobby who is retiring. I arranged to go look at it and found it to be just what I was looking for. The entire drivetrain has been completely rebuilt and the car has been on many tours. It runs like a top and drives straight and true with no undo shakes, noises or other scary attributes. I was looking for a good driver, not a show car and this fit the bill perfectly.

It came home with me today along with a pickup load of spare parts, including a Ruckstell and Bill Tharp hydraulic disc brake kit. While I've had a model A before and other antique cars and motorcycles, I've never driven a T, so this is a new learning experience for me. After I get it licensed I'll start learning to drive it on my quiet residential street. It only has the transmission brake (no RMs etc) and parking brake. For safety and confidence I am seriously thinking about installing the disc brake kit right away. I'm not a speedy kind of guy, I'm quite happy to putt along at 25-35 mph and I realize the disc brakes don't give me a license to fly, but I will feel a lot safer with them and so will my wife. Its the other guys on the road I worry about. I just sent in my MTFCA application and contacted another local T guy to get connected with other locals.

I'd be happy to hear any advice and words of wisdom as I embark on a new adventure. Also, I'd like to hear from others who have installed the disc brake kit on a touring car.

Here's a photo of it.
Thanks,
Steve 23 touring


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Don Booth@ Bay City, Mi on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:32 pm:

SWEET !!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Nebraska on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:35 pm:

Steve,

Very nice. Congratulations. Be careful where you park, some how they seem to multiply :-). Enjoy,

Rob


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial - Veneta OR US Earth Solar System on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:53 pm:

That's great, Steve! Nice looking touring there.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial - Veneta OR US Earth Solar System on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:53 pm:

Oops...sorry - "Stephan".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Danial - Veneta OR US Earth Solar System on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:54 pm:

ok, I give up...."Stephen".

I'm taking my wrench and going out to adjust a brake band now....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Kelsey on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 05:56 pm:

Stephen:

Congratulations! Model T's are immensely fun to drive. If you live in an urban area like myself, you will not regret putting on an additional set of brakes. I put on a set of RM's last year and absolutely love them. Also, having the Ruckstell comes in handy for hills, as well as traffic.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:00 pm:

Your car is a 1924 because of the higher radiator and shell and higher hood.

The 1924 model year was August 1923 through July 1924.

You may want to correct the title when you transfer and register the car.

What is the serial number on the motor?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:19 pm:

Steve,
I'd drive it and check out the trans and emergency (parking) brake first. One of my speedsters has hyd rear brakes, and, in traffic, there is a certain peace of mind driving it. The other has a Muncie and Ruckstel, and if the traffic gets bad I pick a gear and stay in it! I've been caught between gears before, but when I pulled on the emergency brake it slid both of the back tires, aux brakes can do no more than that! Some folks worry about everything, and some worry about nothing. I couldn't have such a nice looking T in my driveway over the weekend and not drive it just because it wasn't registered yet(it probably has logged a lot of miles without aux brakes). If you can wait that patiently, you may need to add the brakes before you move it! Welcome aboard. You'll find the opinions here go from one extreme to the other on many things, but, there is a lot of knowledge here, just be patient with us.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Coiro on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:25 pm:

Now, that's a good looking car! Love the natural wood finish on the spokes. Enjoy!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:36 pm:

Welcome, and congratulations! You will like the touring, if you have a family, and/or grandkids (well .. they're family TOO, I guess! :-))

Enjoy!

Dennis


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:46 pm:

WINNING !!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:47 pm:

Wow - thanks for the welcome and great responses. I'm anxious to get it out and have some fun.
Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 06:58 pm:

The choice of brakes has a lot to do with the driving conditions. If it is quite level where you live, you could get by with the transmission brake and parking brake. But if there is a lot of traffic, or mountains, you are much safer with the disc or other auxhillary brakes. The main problem with using the parking brake for stopping was that it is truely an "emergency brake" It was not intended for regular use in stopping the car, but for holding the car when it is parked and occasional use in an emergency. Whenever you use the parking brake it puts the car in neutral and you are depending on only the brakes to stop you.

Now if you have Ruckstell and learn to shift it before going downhill you will actually increase the braking power of the transmission brake. You will increase the power of the engine compression braking as well. So the combination of Ruckstell with transmission and also rear wheel brakes is the best way to descend a hill. Same would be true for any transmission behind the original Ford transmission. The main drawback, if there is one, is occasionally, and especially for someone new to Model T is that you can get "stuck inbetween gears". This condition puts the car in freewheeling and it is impossible to shift it into any gear if that happens. In that case, you are reliant on only the rear wheel brakes, because the transmission brake is in front of the transmission.

Well I guess I have scared you. If you should be caught going downhill and it is too late to safely shift into a lower gear, it is better to keep the car in high, or use the low pedal if you can. That way you will have some advantage of the engine compression and then pump the brake pedal so you will get oil to cool the brake lining.

Have fun with your Model T. It is a beautiful car.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 07:49 pm:

Steve -- I have used the Tharp brakes and they are wonderful. The difference between those and the stock brakes is like night and day. I heartily recommend them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 08:03 pm:

Steve, Nice Car!!! I also have front and rear fender braces like yours, but haven't put them back on for a while as the front ones contact the front of the radiator shell and wear the paint. Mine have been on the car since the late 20's. They were supposedly an accessory to help support the fenders and prevent them from racking on the rough roads of the time. When shifting the Ruckstell up or down, only do it on the flat or ascending a hill, don't do it on the way down or you may find yourself in a false neutral.You can easily shift down while climbing a hill or up while accelerating.
Noel
1923 Touring and 1926 Coupe


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Randy Milano on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 08:17 pm:

Congratulations Steve. That's a real beauty.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 08:19 pm:

The engine # is 9548372 which, if I read the serial # chart correctly puts it at March 1924 production. So I have learned something new already! I live in Fredericksburg, Virginia, right close to I-95. Unfortunately quite a bit of traffic and some good hills, including my own driveway. Since the complete disc brake kit came with the car, it would seem prudent to put them on. The Ruckstell is not installed either and it probably needs to be rebuilt, so that may be a winter project for me. I like the idea of good brakes and the 2 speed rear end. This appears to provide a lot more versatility and safety.
Noel - On mine the fender braces are right up against the radiator shell, but there are small pieces of rubber on the bar to prevent chafing.
Thanks,
Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Carl Sorenson-Lake Arrowhead,CA on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 08:28 pm:

Welcome to the group Steve .....You'll have a ton of fun with that car.......Very Nice Choice you made.....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 08:52 pm:

Mike Walker - did you install the Tharp brakes yourself? If so, did the installation go smoothly? Any problems? Thanks, Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 10:05 pm:

Is that Tony Cimorelli's car? If so you got a good one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Sunday, July 29, 2012 - 10:33 pm:

Steve,

1. Great looking car. Recommend you get one of the local T folks to check you out on the driving.
Getting an experienced Model T person can save you lots of frustration and possible expense. For example if you fail to retard the spark and you push down on the starting crank at the front of the car you could easily break your arm. That is a known safety issue with Model Ts. And it isn’t dangerous as long as you understand what causes it [spark lever advanced [that is the left hand lever on a left hand drive car] it should be pushed up], commutator adjustment rod installed wrong or bent improperly so that even with the spark lever up, the spark is still too far advanced, shorted wire on the commutator, etc. . And if you use the electrical starter that a 1924 probably has – if the spark is advanced and the engine back fires – it can damage the starter and/or bendix drive. For additional details please see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/68644.html?1224126132

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69444.html
and there are other related threads.

2. Some other safety related items:

And be sure the car is in safe working order. An engine that burns oil is not a critical safety issue (at least not in my book). If the rear axle still has the original babbit thrust washers you can lose your normal service brake. If you ask the seller he should be able to tell you what type of thrust washers he installed or that he does not know etc. That and similar items are well documented "oops" for the T. But if you have never been around one -- they are probably new "data points" for you. Some of them are listed below – not to scare you but to let you learn from others rather than discovering all the lessons on your own.

Safety Glass is nice: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/72116.html

Use safety wire and not lock washers or cotter pins on the two studs holding the wishbone to the underside of the engine.

Lots of safety items http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69429.html

Types of safety wire: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/41859.html

Example of loss of brakes caused by drive shaft failure: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/47804.html that can also happen with the loss of thrust washers.

Top T tips – many of them are safety related also: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/85208.html

Tour safety check list: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/44331.html

And if you have a gas hot water heater in the garage – be very very careful. The float in a Model T Carb will sometimes stick (or trash in the valve) and the carb will leak gasoline. Not too bad if there are no sparks – several homes, garages and cars have been lost when a gas hot water heater was near by and someone started the dishwasher other item that caused it to turn on the burner at the wrong time. Note gas fumes tend to be heavier than regular air …. so they tend to hug the floor. If you adjust your garage door to let the mice in and the air out – that is a temp work around. But replacing the gas fired hot water heater with an electric heater or having the gas one relocated away from the garage is the best thing

Even with a perfectly good and properly adjusted front steering system – if you back up the wheels can go full left or full right and pull the steering wheel out of your hand – so remember to back up slowly. You said it drove nice – so you probably are ok. But others have had cars that were really difficult to drive – and have found the front spring perches have been swapped. There is a left and a right spring perch that tilts the axle so the bottom of the axle is slightly ahead of the top of the axle (5 1/2 degrees positive caster). If it has negative to neutral caster it can cause a wild ride and also could cause the car to flip even at a slow speed see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/80333.html?1233523419 that shows the spring perch installed incorrectly and how the front axle looks then. Also see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40382.html

Also the rear axle thrust bearings if they are babbitt (originally supplied on the cars starting during 1915) and if they have some excess clearance can fail with minimal warning leaving the driver without the normal transmission brake (the main regular brake on a stock Model T). See the discussion at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/78685.html?1233159025 If you loose the brakes and you are on a flat area with minimal traffic – it is not nearly as bad as loosing them while going down hill towards a busy intersection. See the rear axle babbitt discussion part way down in the following thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/277093.html?1332591272

Again a T is a faithful servant but it has some known issues that the driver needs to be aware of and to take proper precautions about.

3. Milt Webb’s article-removing a T from Moth Balls will give you a great list of items to check. In your case the car is running fine – but the list will still be helpful on what to keep track of over the years to come. They are copied from the posting Tom did at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/8538.html and are shown below:

++++++++++++++++++++++ From Tom Mullin’s posting of Milt’s Removing a T From Moth balls +++

By Tom Mullin on Friday, November 25, 2005 - 12:47 pm:

Here are the instructions on taking your T out of mothballs from the Towe Museum:

"REMOVING A ‘T’ FROM MOTHBALLS

GETTING IT READY FOR DURABLE TOURING

Yep, it takes more than a can of gas and a new battery to get a mothball 'T' [10-50 years storage] ready to go on the road!

You always hear, "It ran OK 10 years ago!" In my experience, it takes all the checks, cleaning, repairs, and adjustments outlined below to get through the first mile!

Here's how!

STARTING SYSTEM

Install a new 6-volt battery, negative to ground. Remove and clean ground strap bolt on the frame. Install a ground strap from the bolt at the emergency brake cross shaft bracket to the bottom U-joint cover bolt on the crankcase. Use a heavy woven-style cable or a #1 gauge cable with flat ends. Loosen one bolt on the starter and re-tighten. This breaks corrosion, if any.

Remove and disassemble the starter switch. Sand the contacts to shiny clean. Remove starter cable nut at starter. Tighten bottom nut to just snug. These are pinned and soldered on the inside. Sometimes the solder joint breaks loose and the pin pulls out easily if over-tightened.

Install new #1 gauge cables, from the battery to the switch and from the switch to the starter. Old cables are usually corroded even when you cannot see the green.

Caution: Do not use 12 volt cables [number 4 or 6 gauge]. 12-volt cables will get warm or hot during crank, plus the cranking may be very slow.

It is best to test the starting system with a digital voltmeter. For best results, acceptable voltage drop during cranking readings are:

Cable, batt. to starter switch 0.2 volt max
Starter switch, post-post 0.2 volt max
Cable, starter switch to starter0.2 volt max
Cable, batt. neg.[-] to engine0.2 volt max
Batt. pos. [ +] to neg. [-] 4.5 min [cold]
Battery, positive to negative5.0 min [hot]
Starter draw 400 amps max
See Figure 1 on "How to Make Voltage Drop Measurements".


For better starter switch durability, install a '48 Ford starter, 6-volt solenoid. Use the 'T' starter switch for the solenoid 'control' switch to ground. See Figure 2 on 'hooking up a solenoid'.

If the starter is 'sluggish' at this point, try spraying some electronic or motor cleaner on the starter commutator during crank. If the current draw is over 400 amps, have the starter re-built.

During re-build, install a seal in the end of the starter mount housing. See Figure 3 for how to. This will prevent massive oil leaks out of the starter.

Test starter after re-build by hooking the starter post to a 6-volt battery plus (+) terminal with heavy jumper cables. Hold the starter on the floor. Connect the negative (-) terminal to the starter at the mounting bolt flange. Run starter motor [no load]. Grasp the starter shaft and hold to slow down the shaft. If you can slow it down some, but can't stop it, the starter is good. If you can stop it [shaft], it won't crank engine. During this test, the amps will go up to 75 at around 4.3 volts.

IGNITION

The commutator [timer], coils, and coil box are usually in need of cleaning, adjusting, and tightening. Corrosion takes its toll from sitting.

Clean the timer and roller [or brush] with solvent and sand the grounding bars to shiny clean. Sand the roller or brush tip. Sand the brush-type commutator bars and clean with solvent.

Check the wiring from the commutator to the coil primary for shorts and opens by disconnecting both ends. for testing. Re-install wires to commutator, routing them so they will not touch metal or kink when advancing or retarding the spark.

On roller-type commutators, oil rotor and commutator bars liberally with motor oil upon re-assembly. On brush-type commutators. I recommend leaving the brush and commutator strips dry.


Disassemble the coil box connectors. Clean all the hardware in muriatic swimming pool acid [goggles and gloves]. It is best to solder the contacts to the small carriage bolts . Install new wood [kit from 'T' suppliers]. Treat the wood with water sealer, but do not paint the wood, especially with black paint. Painting may cause shorts. Black paint has charcoal, a conductor!

I strongly recommend you let a professional restore the coils, installing new points and modern condensers, and adjusting to the correct current draw using the hand crank magneto. You will more than likely have reasonable trouble-free operation. Adjusting the gap to a 'strong buzz' does not guarantee good spark.

Clean or replace the spark plugs and adjust the gap to 0.025 inches.

You may want to compare the cost of a distributor to 'T' coil repair. If you're showing your 'T', stay with the original coils and timer to maintain authenticity. If you want a driver [durability and smoother acceleration] purchase a distributor, 6-volt coil, and plug wires.

If using a distributor, disconnect the 'T' coil box primary wire and connect it to the new 6-volt coil + terminal. Connect the coil ¬ terminal to the distributor. Use number 14-gauge wire for all primary wire hook up.

If your 'T' is a 12-volt system, install a 'dropping' resistor to cut the voltage from 12 to nine.

Adjust the point gap to 0.017 inches if no specification is provided.

The distributor turns clockwise. Remove number one plug and turn crank to TDC on the compression stroke. Retard the spark lever, turn the distributor body in the counter-clockwise direction until the points just start to open. This is the retarded firing position on number one cylinder [TDC].

Install the advance linkage and adjust the rod length with the spark control lever in the retard position to match the retard position of the distributor. Tighten distributor housing clamp bolt.

Check advance linkage for binding.

If your new distributor has advance weights, retard to start, then advance the spark by moving the lever down ½ inch from the retard position. The automatic advance will take care of additional distributor advance at higher RPM.

ENGINE CHECKS

Remove all four plugs and measure the compression. Continually crank the engine until the compression pressure has built up four times. Record the compression pressure of each cylinder. A good 'T' engine [cold] will crank 50 psi on each cylinder. 45 psi is OK. 25 psi is a worn engine or bad valves and there may not be enough power to propel the car. If the compression pressure varies over 5 psi from cylinder to cylinder, grind the valves and set the tappet clearance to around 0.012 inches.

If there's no starter, remove all four plugs. Crank each cylinder through compression with your thumb covering the plug hole. If the pressure is about equal in all cylinders, the valves are probably OK. Also, visually look down each plug hole at top of valves. If they are the same color, the odds are they're good enough to start the engine.

Drain the oil. Install four quarts of 20-50 weight oil. Check for dripping out of the top oil level petcock.

If the old oil is 'jelly' or 'syrup' let it drain overnight.

Install pan plug using a small amount of RTV gasket maker on washer.

If equipped with an external oiler, disassemble and verify it's not plugged up.

After start up, let engine warm up for one minute at around 1000 RPM.

Increase the RPM to 1500 and hold it steady. Then, short each cylinder, one at a time, to detect rod bearing knock. If the rod knock(s) goes away with a warm engine, the rods are slightly loose. If the rod knock(s) continues with a warm engine, adjust the rods to 0.002 inches clearance and install Chevrolet-style oil dippers ["T" supply houses stock the dippers].

Refer to the 'Engine Manual' published by MTFCA for detailed procedures.

Drain water and re-fill. Add a cup of StaLube 'soluble oil'.

If the tubes are rusted on the top end, remove radiator and have it professionally checked and flushed at a radiator shop.

FUEL SYSTEM

In the fuel system, checks include the fuel tank, fuel lines, filter, carburetor, and intake manifold leaks.

Start at the fuel tank. If it's full of flakey rust inside, or there is 'algae' and\or it has rust holes in the bottom, have it restored professionally or replace it.

Disassemble the fuel sediment bowl, clean in muriatic acid and replace the filter screen.

Set up sediment bowl in vice. Loosen front fitting. Use a propane torch to heat bowl casting.

Reassemble and install the sediment bowl into the tank. Use aviation, gas-resistant sealant on the threads. Do not get sealant inside gas passages. Do not use 'Teflon' tape. Gasoline will dissolve the tape, and it may get inside, causing flooding problems.

Pour in one gallon of gas and test for leaks and flow out the sediment bowl. Install the gas line over the frame rail. Route the fuel line under the splash shield parallel to the frame rail. Route fuel line between firewall and frame rail adjacent to firewall to frame bracket. This routing will minimize heat transfer into fuel line. Other routings may cause fuel foaming ['vapor lock'].

Disassemble carburetor and clean in carburetor cleaner. If float needle valve seat is 'frozen' in the carburetor top, leave it alone. Use old needle valve.

If the needle valve seat can be removed, replace it with a new 'Viton' tip needle and seat or a double check ball-style valve [Grose Jet].

Test the float [brass] in hot water. If small bubbles escape while immersed, the float is defective. Replace it!

The older carburetors use a cork float. If intact, sand lightly with 320 grit sand paper. Coat with gas-resistant epoxy [Hobby Poxy #1]. Wipe off excess before the epoxy cures. Coat a second time. Wipe again. Check weight before and after each coating. Less than 0.1 ounce increase in weight is OK. If more, start again with a new cork float [available from 'T' parts suppliers].

A new cork float must be coated with very light coats of gas-resistant epoxy. The same technique discussed above applies to new cork floats.

Gas-resistant- Try it out; soak a small amount of cured epoxy in gas. It if softens, try another brand. If the float gets too heavy, it will sink, causing flooding!

Adjust the float to specification. Turn carburetor upside-down. Usually, if the float is 'level' with the top surface of carburetor, the float level is OK.

Re-assemble and install carburetor. Adjust needle valve to one turn open from seat. Most 'Ts' run at around ½ to ¾ turn.

If adjustment is a lot different than this on NH carburetors, something may be wrong with the carburetor or float. Review the Ford 'T' Service Manual or the Carburetor Manual published by the MTFCA.

TRANSMISSION

By now, you know if 'neutral' has a slight drag which is normal. In some cases, long storage and some oils will allow the clutch disks to 'seize up', caused by 'congealing' of the old oil. If this occurs, jack up one rear wheel so a 'neutral' will be available for easy start up.

To test for neutral [before start up] pull the emergency brake lever all the way back [neutral and rear wheel brake]. If it cranks with the starter, neutral is OK. If not, pull the engine through with the hand crank. If no neutral, then try and free up after start up [see 'Run Start up' later in this text].

If neutral is OK, check the pedal adjustments next. Low gear pedal should tighten the band just before hitting the floor board. The high gear lever should begin to engage the clutch shaft lever for neutral about midway between all the way down and the vertical position. The rear wheel brakes should not drag at this point. Pull the brake lever to vertical position; both rear wheels should have an equal heavy drag [see Rear Axle Drive Shaft and Brake Adjustment].

The transmission brake pedal should engage about one inch above the floor board.

The reverse band should engage about halfway between full up and the floor board.

If band adjustment cannot be obtained, review the Ford 'T' Service Manual or the Transmission Manual [MTFCA] for relining and adjustment procedures.

STEERING AND FRONT AXLE

Start with the steering gear. Remove the steering wheel and steering gear cover. Pack with moly chassis lube or wheel bearing grease. Lube steering collar [lower part] with grease cup.

Check the pitman arm on the shaft. Many times this nut and arm are loose on the steering shaft. Check woodruff key for slop. Oil threads and tighten to around 75 pound feet torque and re-install the cotter pin.

Test the drag link ball caps for looseness by turning the steering wheel free play [wheels on ground]. Put your finger between the cap and the steering arm. If there is 'slop' [more than 1\32 inch], remove cap and grind flat face. Re-install cap and re-check for clearance [less than 1\32 inch]. If OK, disassemble, grease with moly lube, tighten bolts and jamb nuts, insert cotter pins. Test for binding (lock to lock) with wheels off the ground.

If drag link binds, loosen bolts slightly, tighten jamb nuts, and insert new cotter pins. Check for binding again. Repeat drag link cap check on the right end steering link.

Check and oil the tie rod ends. If more than 1\32 inch clearance, replace pins and bushings [See Ford 'T' Service Manual for procedures]. Rebuild kits are available from the 'T' parts supply houses.

Check the radius rod 'wishbone' ball and cap. If less than 1\64 inch play side-to-side when turning the steering wheel [front wheels on ground], grease wishbone ball cap, tighten and \or replace studs, spring, and nuts. The wishbone ball must be tight in the socket with no side-to-side play.

Safety wire both studs to each other. Do not use cotter pins. Ball joint studs may work loose and unscrew.

Remove and inspect the front wheel bearings and grease seals. Clean bearings in solvent ['paint thinner', not lacquer thinner]. Blow dry with air and then wash in solvent, again. If rollers are pitted, replace bearings and cups [races].

Grease bearings using moly wheel bearing grease. Install inner wheel bearing and seal. Install wheel on spindle shaft and screw on outer wheel bearing. The right spindle axle nut and bearing should be a left-hand [counterclockwise] thread. The left side is a right-hand thread. Tighten until snug and back off until light bearing play exists. Install washer and jamb nut. Tighten jamb nut to line up cotter pin slots. Bearing play should be just snug with out binding. Turn wheel [off ground]. If it stops abruptly, loosen jamb nut, loosen bearing nut _ turn, re-tighten jamb nut. If the wheel turns freely, adjustment is OK.

Lastly, test the spindle and bushings [king pins] for end [up and down] play and for vertical plane play.

In the vertical plane check [wheels off ground], grab the top and bottom of the tire and wiggle in and out. If the outer rim moves in and out more than one inch, look at spindle bushings and wood spokes [spoke looseness checks in 'wheels' section]. If in and out movement at spindle [king pin] bushing is more than 1\64 inch [0.015"] the spindle pin bushings are very loose and should be replaced.

Next, test the bushing end play [up and down movement in the vertical plane]. The end play clearance should be zero. Test by placing a tire iron under the tire [wheels off the ground]. If end play clearance is greater than 0 [like 0.005" or 0.010", 0.015" is 1\64 inch], remove cotter pin, loosen jamb nut, tighten spindle bolt ¼ turn, re-tighten jamb nut, and re-test for end play.

The bottom portion of the axle has a thread for the spindle bolt. If it's stripped, tighten jamb nut to take up end play. The Ford 'T' Service Manual specifies tightening the spindle bolt until 'resistance' to turning exists.

To avoid wheel wobble at low speed, tighten spindle bolt to just zero end play, as outlined above. If left tight [resistance] steering will be hard and the car will steer you and you will be constantly correcting as you travel down the road.

Oil the oil caps at top of spindle bolt with motor oil. If oil drips to ground out of bottom bushing, oil holes are open. If not, disassemble spindle bushing bolt, clean oil holes and re-assemble. Test for end play, align spindle jamb nut, and install cotter pin.

Test for camber, caster, and toe-in ['gather']. Make a 'plumb bob' with a string and a nut tied to one end. Measure camber by holding the string at the top outer surface of tire. Move forward until string clears the hub cap. The horizontal measurement to tire surface at bottom is three inches [specified in Ford 'T' Service Manual].

Test the caster [pitch] by holding a carpenter square perpendicular to the floor and touching the front surface of bottom spindle\axle area. Measure the distance from the square to upper edge of spindle\axle area. This measurement should be the specified ¼ inch on both spindles.

Measure the 'gather' [toe-in] by holding a tape measure the inside front rim edge about halfway up from the ground. Measure distance to same spot on other rim. Move the tape measure to the inside rear rim edge. The 'toe-in' should be around 3\16 - ¼ inch. For example, if the front measures 53 ½ inches and the back is 53 ¾ inches, the toe-in is ¼ inch.

Many times, the toe-in measurement will be ½ inch toe-in or up to ½ inch toe-out! Needles to say, the car will wander all over if the above measurements are incorrect.

Review the Ford 'T' Service Manual for detailed procedures to measure camber, caster, and toe [gather]. Toe is adjustable.

WHEELS

In 1998, the wheels with metal outer rims may be up to 78 years old! Wood felloe and wood outer rim wheels may be 88 years old!

That's old! If the spokes are loose in any way, consider having them re-spoked by a professional wheelwright advertised in the hobby magazines.

The wheel(s) may be slightly out of true in the vertical plane. A _ inch out of true wobble is OK; but if greater, consider re-spoking the wheel.

You have read about wheels folding up on curves and causing accidents. It's worth the price to your family, friends, and relates, in-laws and outlaws to make safety a top issue!

Do not try shimming, epoxy, or resin to 'tighten' up the spokes. The heat from the rear brakes may melt the glue to honey, run out all over the brake, and then collapse!

'NUFF' SAID!

REAR AXLE, DRIVE SHAFT AND BRAKE CHECKS

Test the drive shaft front bushing by removing the drive shaft housing plugs. Insert a small screwdriver and push up. If it pushes up 1\64 inch [0.015 inches] the clearance is barely acceptable the clearance spec for this bushing is 0.002 - 0.006 inches. If the clearance is over 1\64 inches, it's very loose! This measurement excess may indicate other rear axle wear and excess end play.

With a screwdriver, move the pin fore and aft to check drive shaft end play. If over 1\64 inches [0.015"], it's too loose. Although loose, one can drive the car. Consider re-building the drive shaft assembly. Check the Ford 'T' Service Manual for overhaul procedures.

If the drive shaft\U-joint pin is loose, support the bottom of pin with a _ punch and blocks [hardwood on cement] to the floor. Peen the top of pin with a ¼ inch punch and a two-pound hammer. Turn drive shaft 180, and peen the other end. The pin is quite soft.

Grease the drive shaft bushing cup with moly grease, and turn it in ½ turn for every trip. The front drive shaft bushing without grease is a 'high wear' item on a 'T'!

Test the rear axle up and down play with wheels off the ground. Any play up and down up to 0.005 inches is OK, Test the wheels with a tire iron on the bottom side of the tire using the iron as a lever. Lift it up and down. If it's over 0.005 inches, it's loose! The wear is usually in the bearing axle sleeve upper outside edge [Part #2509].

To remove wheel hubs, jack up one side. Install a 'knock-out' on opposite axle shaft. Tighten knock-out. Srike heavy blows on end of knock-out with a 'sledge' hammer. If really tight, re-check knock-out. If, after five hard blows, it is not loose, install a 'wheel puller' to remove hub. Most wheel hubs fall off or come loose with a couple of firm blows.

Remove the bearing [two small screwdrivers] and feel the ridge wear in the axle sleeve. Remove the race [with puller from 'T' supply houses]. Install inner axle seals and new 'heat-treated' sleeves. ['T' supply houses have these parts].

Measure the rear axle bearing diameter with a micrometer. The standard diameter size of the roller bearing is 0.500 inches. If it measures 0.495 or more its OK. If it less than 0.495 inches, replace the bearing.

I personally prefer a bearing 0.002 to 0.003 inches under 0.500 inches.

The looser, the faster the car will go up to an acceptable limit!

While the bearing is out, check the axle end play. If over 1\32 inch [0.031"], it's excessive. If left this way, the axle may shift in and out causing the drum to rub the brake lining edges. It may squeal! Check the Ford 'T' Service Manual for correct set up when re-building the rear axle assembly.

Install inner grease seals [Part #2511] and the bearing sleeves [there is a left and right sleeve; grease holes must line up!].

Grease the rear axle bearing with heavy duty wheel bearing grease or moly grease. Install bearings. Tap bearings in lightly and turn cage back and forth. With old bearings, they will slip in easily. With new, reproduction bearings, a moderate tap is OK.

When all the way in, the bearings will rotate easily, because the axle is usually worn from 0.003 to 0.005 inches on the bearing surface area. If in doubt about the above, review the Ford 'T' Service Manual for procedures.

Check the brake shoe lining. The small 9-inch brakes with lining is inadequate for hill country, but may be OK for flat country [a personal opinion]. You may want to consider 'rocky mountain' brakes.

The 11-inch brakes ['26¬'27 'T'] is much better and adequate for mountain driving. 'Fade' may still be a problem.

Recently [1997], I had my 11-inch brakes relined with a 'molded Kevlar' lining used in industrial brake applications. The brand name is Redco Heavy Duty Woven Lining. This Kevlar lining will withstand higher temperatures before fade than Model T brake lining. If it fades, the brakes will recover faster upon cooling.

After 100 miles, the brakes seated and stopping power is superb with minimum fade.

In either case, have the lining professionally drilled and riveted with brake machinery. Don't skimp and do it 'by hand'! It will work loose! There goes your safety factor!

Oil brake arm cam lever bushings. Put a thin film of moly grease on the cam surface [top and bottom]. Install lining. Disconnect brake rods.

Prepare rear axles. Remove axle burrs and shine taper surfaces with 80 grit-type sand paper. Peen the outer end of the axle keyway. Insert the axle key by tapping into the burr. You don't want this to move when installing the wheel hub. Clean axle threads with a _ x 13 [National Fine] die. Tap nut to clean thread.

Oil axle surface, axle thread, and nut for a better torque.

Slip on hub drum. Rotate wheel. If you hear a metal scraping, it may be the brake lining edge rubbing the drum. Remove hub and install an axle shim [Part #2505 SH] coated with oil. Recheck for scraping sound.

The oiled axle shaft surfaces will provide a better seating of the hub on the axle. Install the nut, and snug lightly [for now]. Re-install brake rods, oil clevis pins, and install cotter pins.

Adjust the brakes for equal drag. Pull the emergency brake handle to the vertical position. Test for equal drag on both wheels.

Move brake lever to neutral with no brake. Test for free-wheeling at rear wheels. The trick is to have the wheels free in neutral with no brake drag, then pull lever to vertical. The wheels should have a heavy equal drag to almost locked up with brake lever in vertical position.

Make sure emergency brake lever and locking pawl doesn't slip. If it does, replace it [pawl].

In my experience, the rear brakes are, quite often, adjusted too tight. If tight, the brake applies the instant you pull the lever into neutral.

As new brake lining high spots wear in, re-adjust rear brakes for equal drag as outlined above.

If all the above adjusts out as discussed above, tighten brake rod clevis jam nuts and install cotter pins in clevis pins.

Torque the axle nuts to 75 foot pounds, align the cotter pin slots, and insert the cotter pin.

Fill the differential case to bottom edge of fill plug hole with 140 weight gear oil.

START UP

Now, for the big test! If all the above has been performed with good repair practice and adjusted to specification, your car should start in 5-10 seconds and almost be ready to drive on tour! The order of start up and drive events are as follows:

Adjust mixture, engine off
Crank and start
Adjust mixture and spark advance
Test for rod knocks
Test transmission band adjustment
Drive car, test shifting
Drive car, test brakes
Drive car, test for 'wabble'
Test for overheating
Drive car on tour!

Turn on gas and adjust mixture rod to one turn open from seated position. Hook up battery.

With gas at half throttle and spark in full-retarded position, crank engine for five seconds. During crank, choke for up to two seconds.

On hand crank models, use the same throttle and retarded spark settings as previously discussed. With ignition off, pull crank through three times with full choke. Release choke.

Turn on ignition, leave spark retarded, and crank to start.

Upon start up, be prepared to choke slightly as the engine begins to rev up. If it's 'sputtering', open choke [no choke] to let it rev up more. Advance spark to half way on 'Ts' equipped with four coils and timer. To lean the mixture, turn mixture knob clockwise until the engine 'smooths out'.

Return to idle slowly. Adjust idle throttle screw and mixture rod to maintain good idle smoothness.

NOTE: In my experience, the mixture rod will be open around ¾ turns from seated position at ½ throttle. Idle mixture setting for a long idle usually requires about ¼ turn more rich [counter-clockwise] than at ½ throttle in neutral.

During warm up, rev engine to around 1200 RPM. Leave it at a steady RPM. Listen for knock(s).

Short [with a screwdriver], one spark plug at a time. That cylinder will drop in RPM. Simultaneously, listen for knock while plug is shorted. If the knock goes away while shorting out the cylinder, the rod is loose.

Perform the same test on remaining cylinders.
After a long warm up, perform the same rod knock test, again. If it still knocks, the rod(s) is\(are) very loose.

In addition, test for center main bearing knock by holding at _ throttle and spark advanced halfway. Short number two and three spark plug simultaneously. If the knock goes away, adjust the center main after you adjust the rods. If you have any doubt about knocks, review the MTFCA Engine Manual for procedures.

To test the transmission bands, set emergency brake and start engine. Warm up. With emergency brake set, push in low pedal gently. Listen for a changing transmission 'whine'. This is the beginning of low band engagement. This point should be around one ¬ two inches up from the floorboard surface.

Next, push in reverse pedal with emergency brake set. The pedal should travel about half-way (½) to the floorboard surface.

With new, or old transmission bands, start with the above suggested adjustments. The real test is on the road. The adjustments may seem on the 'loose' side to you. However, the loose adjustments will minimize premature failure due to excessive drag.

If the bands are too tight, they will already be partially engaged. They may work against each other, and the transmission may sound like it's binding up. Further the bands may burn and fail prematurely due to lack of oil [cooling].

Sometimes the clutch disks will not allow a neutral. To test for neutral while running with one wheel jacked up, pull brake lever back slowly to neutral. Note RPM change, if any. Then continue to pull increasing brake drag. Engine RPM should not change and transmission neutral is OK.

If engine slows down during this maneuver, clutch disks are hung up and\or oil is congealed on disks' surfaces. Try this brake on\off procedure for 10 minutes.

If it [neutral] still does not work, change oil again. Repeat above steps. If it still hangs up, remove, disassemble engine and transmission to repair clutch.

READY FOR ROAD TEST

Now the big plunge! You're ready for the road!

If you are not experienced, ask an experienced friend who regularly drives 'Ts' on tours to drive your car the first time.

Slowly, slowly, engage reverse pedal gently and back out of the driveway. Leave emergency brake in neutral position to hold clutch pedal in place, while backing up.

Push in low pedal to move forward. Leave emergency brake lever in neutral. Accelerate to 10 MPH in low, then let up on the throttle and low pedal.

Let the car coast. Then apply foot brakes, gently. No chatter during stop- Next accelerate to 10 MPH in low. With your foot still on low pedal let the brake lever into high gear position [all the way down]. At 10 MPH, let throttle off slightly and simultaneously let clutch [high gear] engage by slowly letting up low pedal.

Note how smooth the shift is! If it chatters, the clutch disks may be 'hanging up' on the inside of the transmission brake drum guides.

After 50 miles or so, change the crankcase oil, again. When bringing your car out of mothballs, the syrupy oil could cause the hangup and rough shift. New oil may minimize the rough shift.

You have been applying the emergency brake gently, noting pull. At 30 MPH in high gear, let up on throttle and pull emergency brake to lock the rear wheels [panic stop]. Be prepared for a pull to right or left.

If it pulls to right, adjust the left clevis pin one turn tighter and re-install cotter pin. Try panic stop again. If you cannot get equal pull, re-line emergency brakes as discussed in brake section.

Test for 'Wabble':

Proceed over chuck holes slowly [5 MPH]. If shimmy develops, re-check front end looseness and alignment checks, as outlined in the 'Front Axle' section.

Test the radiator. If it boils on a cool day during these pre-tour tests, consider a 'flat tube' radiator re-core or a new radiator. In a good radiator system, water pumps are unnecessary, even on hot days.

READY FOR TOUR

If all the above works as outlined above, you're now ready for a durable tour.
Before every tour:

_Fill radiator to ½ inch from full up
_ Check oil drip out of top petcock
_ Clean timer
_Fill tank with gas
_Turn front drive shaft bushing grease cup one turn.
_Start, warm up, and go on tour!


Couple of extra things -
Join both the MTFCA and the MTFCI. Their magazines will help you understand your car better and let you see what other people are doing. Join the local Model T chapter, there are a lot of great people to meet that way.

Tom (Detroit, Piquette Ts \ Casual Ts)

++++++++++++ end of reposting of Tom’s post +++++++++

Again welcome aboard!

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 12:48 am:

I've tried to copy and save that Towe Museum piece before, but it always pastes with spaces between all the letters, not just between the words. I wonder if there's some way to save a usable copy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 01:51 am:

Steve,
You should be able to save copy of the Town Museum write up by highlighting the whole thing, select Copy then Paste into a MS Word document or other word processor. If that don't work you can paste into a Notepad document but the links will not be hot.

Another option is in your browser to select File and Save Page As. This will save the whole page as a HTML file.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 03:26 am:

Good start! I have to throw in my "welcome to the affliction"!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth H. Spratlin on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 06:53 am:

Good luck! Lol, buyer beware: a T is a completely different animal. But that's what makes it fun!

Also, haven't seen anyone else mention it, but don't trust anything the guy that sold it to you says. Verify, verify, verify. There's too many important safety items that are too easy to check to not just put your own eyeballs on every inch of that car. That big checklist that Hap posted is worth its weight in gold and can be done in a few days depending on what parts you end up needing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 07:18 am:

WOW - thanks so much again for all your inputs.
Royce - Yes I bought it from Tony.
The rear end, wheels, and just about everything else has been rebuilt with much of it documented on his website. Rear end has new bronze thrust washers, bearings, and seals. Wheels have new spokes, etc.
Hap - thanks for the extensive post. This car has been driven routinely, so its not coming out of hibernation, but that's a great article and I have saved it. I'll read through the other links you provided.
So much great information and helpful folks, I really appreciate it.

Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Button III (Chip), Lake Clear, NY on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 08:03 am:

Welcome to the "Family"!!! Have fun!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 08:09 am:

For Steve Blancard,

As Royce said, Tony’s car is a great one to have. Tony did a lot work on it and he did it correctly to make the car not only look nice but drive correctly also. Disclaimer -- it is still a T and things like backing up quickly can cause accidents etc.

For Steve Jelf,

If it worked, you should be able to click on the PDF symbol and down load Milt Webb’s article “Removing a T from moth balls" see below. But when I tried it on the "Preview Screen" it did not work. I know we used to be able to do that and I suspect we still can if I remembered how. If it doesn't work drop me a note with your e-mail and I will send it to you.


Again welcome aboard Steve.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off

application/pdfMilt Webb's article "Removing a T from Moth Balls"
Milt Webb - Removing T from Moth Balls.pdf (137.2 k)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 08:11 am:

Steff Jelf -- it looks like it worked -- but it goes slow compared to photos etc.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 08:23 am:

Yes, the PDF worked! Thanks, Hap.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 08:28 am:

Steve -- Yes, I installed the brakes myself. It's a pretty straightforward job. Since Bill Tharp sold that brake business to Ben Hardeman, Ben has compiled much more thorough instructions than Bill had. I recommend that you use Ben's instructions. You probably can download them from his website (www.TexasTParts.com). If they are not downloadable, give Ben a call and I'm sure he'll provide them for you.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Wicker on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 09:21 am:

Steve im looking forward to seeing your T the next time im up your way. Lisa (Lady Friend) loves that car!
Wick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:11 am:

Mike - I have both Bill Tharp's and Texas T's instructions and have been comparing them. Between the two, it seems pretty straight forward. But I know how things dont always go as expected.

Wick - do come by if you are up this way.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Orlando Ortega Jr. on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:13 am:

Stephen,

Congratulations on your new car. Pretty nice looking Touring.

Orlando


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Manuel, Lafayette, La. on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:58 am:

Hope you enjoy your car and more importantly I hope you share it with others. Give people rides, let kids climb on the running boards or sit inside and honk the horn, answer questions cheerfully and be a good ambassador for the hobby. Every T owner I've met so far has been open and friendly and I find that so refreshing compared to the owners of some of the over restored or plastic replica ego trips you see at the local cruise-in.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tony Cimorelli on Monday, August 06, 2012 - 09:42 pm:

He doesn't have to do a thing but drive it. Everything was put together correctly. I'm glad the car got an owner who will enjoy it. Car has been on a lot of tours - MTFCI Maryland, Michigan, Wisconsin, Iowa, Harrisonburg, Natchez-Trace, MTFCA Hagerstown, and a lot of locals. Times change and Dorothy and I are preparing for retirement and I wish Steve well. The Coupe is going up for grabs next. Had a lot of fun over the years and learned a lot about fixing old cars. We met and toured with a lot of great folks. Even did a T tour in Scotland (my wife's homeland). Very generous and fun loving T drivers on the other side of the pond. We'll miss the cameraderie but it's time for another cruise. Fair winds and following seas. Semper Fi - Tony and Dorothy Cimorelli


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Monday, August 06, 2012 - 09:48 pm:

Tony we will miss you John and Karen Danuser Fulton Mo, presently the last founding member of the Kingdom Of Callaway MTFCA and present President


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 12:05 am:

Congratulations to both Tony and Stephen!
Tony for selling a nice car at an affordable price to Stephen, a new collector, who can spend hours and hours having FUN instead of FIXING....... :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Tuesday, August 07, 2012 - 11:58 am:

I'm certainly enjoying my new T. Many thanks to Tony and all of you for your advice and guidance. I wish my garage was bigger, I saw Tony's coupe and it was gorgeous. But it will have to be a great addition to someone else's garage. I bought my wife a new Ford Escape the day after I got Tony's car. One for me, one for her. Gotta keep peace on the home front.. ;-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 07:42 am:

I took the car out last night for a few practice laps on my quiet street. Besides backing it in and out of the garage a couple times, this was my first real drive with it. All went well and I got it back into the garage safely. But it was a little scary with minimal brakes and a clutch that works the opposite of what I'm accustomed to. I will try to take it out on my street a couple times a week to get more comfortable with it before ranging out onto busier streets. I also plan to install the disc brakes sooner rather than later.
The T out for  a spinDriving the T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 08:04 am:

Sorry to hear Tony is retiring from T's (he's still comparatively young, he might still get a relapse.. :-) ) - but glad his cars didn't end up dead in a museum :-)

Stephen, look far ahead and consider using the engine as a brake to slow down before you start pumping the foot brake. Both levers up retards the vehicle noticeable.
The throttle lever can be adjusted so the throttle is completely closed with the lever in the full up position, that'll make best use of the available compression/"jake brake". You'll then need to file a larger notch in the quadrant where you find a position where the engine idles best - or put a weld there on the quadrant and file it to an intermediate idle stop that can easily be overrun when you need to slow down.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Semprez-Templeton, CA on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 11:08 am:

Hap, I wonder if this great article could be published as one of the booklets in the MTFCA series... (part of the Jelf bookshelf as I call it). It has excellent information which should be reviewed by the Newbies and Oldbies alike!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 02:38 pm:

Good looking T Stephen!
Always remember to worry about the folks in the "modern cars" that can come up from behind you really fast when they are slowing down for you!
Even with improved brakes its easy to forget that its 100 year old technology vs. todays technology.
Have fun and watch the other guy. Its easy to do when your going around 30-35 MPH!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 03:00 pm:

I noticed that using the engine as a brake is nearly as effective as the brake itself. I plan to keep my speed pretty low. Its funny, in a modern car 30 mph seems really slow. But in this car it feels like I'm flying! My home is a half-mile away from a national battlefield with a lovely, 7 mile long tree shaded drive with speed limits of 25 and 30 mph. After I gain some confidence going up and down my street, I plan to cruise the battlefield quite a bit. It should be a good place to practice.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Pletcher on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 03:16 pm:

I think Tony C said it best when he said "He doesn't have to do anything but drive it." Get some time behind the wheel. No matter how fancy the brakes are, you only have a tiny patch of rubber on the road. Having confidence driving makes a huge difference. Pay attention farther down the road and learn to use the engine to slow down. You'll be fine. I hope you enjoy your new car. BTW I might consider turn signals before brakes; most people now days think I'm waving when signaling a turn.

Regards,
Larry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 03:47 pm:

Stephen, I always try to tell people that the T has a manually operated automatic trans. Remembering that you can learn it well. But, remember that the hand brake is an emergency brake also. If you get confused, grab it !! Your car has small,close together pedals and big shoes sometimes makes it difficult to find the correct pedal to use. It just takes practice. Always remember the hand brake for stopping just in case. I recommend REAL EARLY driving on Sat/Sunday mornings. Have fun, George n L.A.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen Blancard on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 06:35 pm:

Larry - I agree, the car needs nothing to drive and enjoy. Practice will be the best confidence builder. I'm sure I'll feel better the more I drive. It already has turn signals on it, Tony had it set up for touring.

George - I havent tried to use the hand brake as an emergency brake yet. But I may try it the next time out to see how well it works. Early sunday morning will be a good time to go to the battlefield.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Coiro on Wednesday, August 08, 2012 - 07:41 pm:

Stephen,
Heartiest congrats on your "new" Model T. I think natural woodgrain wheels are just heartbreakingly beautiful (and one wheel at a time, I'm changing my own spokes over from black paint).

As you've no doubt concluded by this point, the kind of tech support you can access on the MTFCA forum is nothing short of amazing. I'd certainly be lost without these guys. Welcome to the club!


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration