I ride the neutral between low and high when I go to coast to a stop, whether approaching a stop sign, traffic light, pulling in to the garage, or just coming to a stop. I generally do shift to low gear to slow the car before going to the neutral area on the pedal.
Is this normal driving, or can it cause damage to the drums?
Although I've had my Model T's awhile, I'm always learning and looking for advice.
Orlando
When in neutral no drums involved or bands. I throttle down and put in neutral then apply the brake. Sometimes I will throttle down and use the low band to crawl to the stop sign and then use the brake. I never use the reverse to slow down any more, too many cracked reverse drums.
I would venture to say that many Model Ts don't have an absolute neutral between low and high, but even if such a slim neutral zone existed in every Flivver, it would be difficult to find and hold with your left foot as the car bounced over the road. Coasting to a stop in what feels like neutral may involve rubbing the low drum against the band, causing heat and wear—or you could be putting unnecessary wear on the clutch.
Sometimes, it's difficult for me to find that "sweet spot" between low and high and when that happens, I use the hand lever. Now, my impressions may be due to my car being out of proper adjustment, so take all of this for what it's worth.
In any case, I try to save wear on my brakes by leaving the transmission in high and using compression to help slow the car down for a stop.
Orlando
I do that whenever I am stopping for a short time - such as a stop sign.
I usually pull the brake handle part way back at a stop light to save my leg and foot.
I always pull it back when pulling into a parking space, garage, gas station or there are lots of people around to be extra safe.
Best to leave in gear until you are almost stopped and then put in neutral for just the last few feet so you don't kill the engine.
Norm
I've read more than once (and started doing it myself) that slowing the car in gear with the engine is proper T driving. It doesn't seem to work out in the real world but first gear is supposed to be for getting moving and high is, again, supposed to be for all other driving. Like I said: supposed to. Engine braking works OK. Using the pedal or the handle for neutral is your guess. Which ever works for you.
I would venture to say that many Model Ts don't have an absolute neutral between low and high, but even if such a slim neutral zone existed in every Flivver, it would be difficult to find and hold with your left foot as the car bounced over the road. Coasting to a stop in what feels like neutral may involve rubbing the low drum against the band, causing heat and wear—or you could be putting unnecessary wear on the clutch.
Sometimes, it's difficult for me to find that "sweet spot" between low and high and when that happens, I use the hand lever. Now, my impressions may be due to my car being out of proper adjustment, so take all of this for what it's worth.
In any case, I try to save wear on my brakes by leaving the transmission in high and using compression to help slow the car down for a stop. (end quote)
Bob, if you don't have a very distinct neutral in your car, and every thing else is right in the trany, then, your adjustment is off, all Model T's have a Distinct neutral, unless you don't adjust for it.
Herm.
I use the engine to brake until it wont slow it down anymore, then I use the brake until the engine is down to idle speed, then neutral and brake to stop. On a hill, or if I don't plan well, I may downshift into low, but only when the engine is slow enough to do so and I do not slip the low band like a brake. It goes solidly into low and stays there until the engine is down to idle, then neutral and brake to stop.
Same as Hal. Use the gas lever all the way up as the first step in planned braking. Let it slow, then use the foot brake in a pump style to avoid heating and let it oil bathe the brake drum. Near the end of the deceleration push in clutch for neutral as right foot is braking to a stop.
1. All linkage and clutch adjustment must be correct.
2. In a panic stop, the procedure is much less controled/gentle.
It is easy to find the ends of your neutral zone by pressing in until you feel it begin to grab, then letting out till you feel it begin to grab. It is a fairly good size zone on my car so I never feel I am inadvertently slipping the drum while stopping.
I engine brake all the time. With city driving (and nowhere is off limits, except the freeway). Often I have to stop quickly, for stoplights and merging traffic. If I can, I throttle up, to slow down in advance. I downshift and engine brake, just about every time I stop. I pump the brakes to slow down the rest of the way. If I did not, I would not be driving the T.
I hold the car in neutral with my left foot and often have my right foot on the brake. If you listen really closely you can tell if you are in neutral. My car has this particular growl if I am stopped and not fully in neutral. The only time I pull the lever to neutral is if I know it is a light that has a long rotation period.
If you carefully press the clutch pedal down from High toward Low, you should be able to feel a slight 'detent' as the low speed notch begins to engage the clutch pedal support cam. The whole time the clutch pedal is in neutral or high, the low speed band is loose. Only after the notch engages the cam does the pedal begin to move sideways and tighten the band. Also at this point, the clutch shift collar will no longer be touching the clutch fingers, so the high speed clutch will no longer be engaged.
Granted, this position may be difficult to determine while bouncing down the road, but practice it while sitting still. You don't even have to be running to do this. Get a feel for where this 'detent' is and then it will become second nature to find it in more difficult circumstances.