Here are some photographs of the inside of the rear end after a serious popping sound session and subsequent loss of brakes and low gear. The pinion gear had come loose , the key had ripped out when the nut came off apparently. We noticed the collar on the drive shaft near the pinion gear appears to have a small crack. The keyway on the drive shaft is damaged badly. Can this be repaired by building it up with weld and then grinding it out to the original shape, or should the entire shaft be replaced? The ring gear support/collar appears to be scored around its circumference, though it isn't clear what caused the scoring. Any ideas?
How do we remove the driveshaft from its housing?
If you see anything else noteworthy in the photos at the following link, please advise.
https://plus.google.com/photos/111418011032368917453/albums/5771044623971530065? authkey=CPS4-pbYrtDsxwE
The driveshaft needs to be replaced. I wouldn't trust a repair. You would have to heat the driveshaft to weld it and that would change the temper in a very critical location. If it breaks or the key breaks you will be right back where you started and need to replace everything again. You will need gears and a new shaft. You might be able to reuse the bearing. From the pictures it still looks good. You will need to remove the sleeve to be able to reuse it, so you might as will replace the sleeve too. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. From the looks of the nut, I can't tell if it is a castellated nut, but it should be one and it is a special narrow nut made for that purpose. It should be tight with a pin through it.
Norm
Thanks for the speedy response Norm! Yes, a new shaft will be purchased as well as a new pinion gear, nut, sleeve, and from the photos linked in this new post, a new babbett is needed too! Looks like the babbett is in tiny pieces in the tray in the photo. We will replace the babbett on both sides with needle bearing thrust rollers. Here are some MORE pics
https://plus.google.com/photos/111418011032368917453/albums/5771059431637957345? authkey=CKXD1ovNnZSZyAE
Sound good?
Thanks!!!
Here are a couple pics of the ends of the rear axles. The passenger side looks a little worn. How's it look to ya'll?
https://plus.google.com/photos/111418011032368917453/albums/5771064033903947233? authkey=CNrGsI2z-I-DPw
The axle end caps (the formed sheet metal cupsthat cover the felt seals on the axle ends) are worn from the axle moving back and forth with respect to the axle housing. We're having trouble removing them. Is there a trick?
Lastly, How do we remove the driveshaft from its housing? I suspect that we need to remove the collar near the pinion and then slide the shaft toward the front of the car. Does that sound right? Maybe some heat on the collar?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!
Cal,
Use the Bronze thrust washers rather than the needle bearing rollers.
They will last your lifetime.
Larry
I agree with Larry on using the bronze thrust washers. As he says, they will outlast you. Needle bearings there are a superfluous complication.
Look at this, especially the last three paragraphs: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html. As the old saying goes, when all else fails, read the instructions.
Cal -- The driveshaft has to come out the rear end of its housing. To do that, you need to remove the 1/4" pin through the shaft and the U-joint at the front end. The pin is peened on both ends, so it can be a job. But that's the only way to get the shaft out.
I recommend replacing the pinion Hyatt bearing with a Fun Projects unit. There are many "improvements" you can make to Model T's which aren't really an improvement, but this one is. (As mentioned above, the needle bearings in place of the thrust washers aren't really necessary.) Those pinion bearing sleeves (you said yours is cracked) are very brittle and can break like glass. Contact John at www.FunProjects.com for info on his pinion bearing unit.
I understand that Texas T Parts also has a similar one, but I haven't used that one so I can't comment on it. I'm sure it's a good part or Ben wouldn't be selling it.
Cal
Along with Mike's words, IMO would be wise to replace the axles too, they are worn, key-ways wallowed out, replace with new ones or good used. When opening up the carrier, be sure to thoroughly clean the innards. That rear end should get a complete rebuild, new ring gear too, as the ring gear seems fairly worn down.
The pics you posted show that the pinion nut wore down to a nub along with ground up and missing cotter pin, as it was hitting the center section and scoured the casting, lots of metal debris and dust will be inside.
Rivet pin fixing the U-Joint being removed.
Many, many thanks. Will place order for all recommendations.