My new drive shaft bushing has a slot, like a key way slot on the inside. Although I have not seen a reference to this slot I am thinking it is for grease distribution and should be aligned with the hole drilled in the bushing for grease insertion. Comments?
Used the original babbitt bushing, driven out, to trace the spot to drill the grease hole in the new bronze bushing....., the original aligned the hole with that relief slot to get grease along the bearing.
When using the Fun Projects spool pinion unit, be sure to face off most of the flange to reduce difficulty in aligning the u-joint with the rivet hole in the drive shaft. May be others haven't had trouble, but with a new repro drive shaft, and a new u-joint, had to really thin down the bushing face of the new bushing to get the holes for the rivet pin to align.
Dan, I had the same problem. Fun Projects Spool and new drive shaft required complete removal of flange on bushing and still was a job getting the rivet pin in. Also, hole in drive shaft was located just a bit too far aftward for adequate access through the access hole. Didn't compare new shaft to the old shaft so don't know source of problem if there actually is one. Did manage to put everything together though.
I know some will disagree but I never use the rivet back through the drive shaft when using the modern pinion set up, thousands of miles and no problems. KB
Kieth, I know some don't install the rivet. What bothers me is with the universal not fastened at either end it is free to float back and forth. This may not be a problem as your experience indicates but I still wonder if it could be under some conditions.
Some of Snyder's new Drive shafts have the U-joint pin hole drilled in the wrong place. They are about 1/8 in toward the rear from where they should be. I never trust the lock ring on Fun Projects or our own Drive Shaft spool assemblies. I always set up Drive shaft end play at the u-joint just like a regular Drive Shaft rebuild just for insurance.
Thanks Glen. That explains it. It was a Snyder's shaft. I could not figger out what I may have done wrong.
Thought so, figured my problem wasn't alone. New shaft from Lang's, new U-joint from Lang's, when fitted had to work on the fit of the u-joint to the shaft sq. end, didn't slip on.
Then faced the bushing to hardly any grease groove on the face, when bolted up and final assembly, pinion clearance done, and ready to pin the now slip on u-joint....the rivet pin would not line up.
Now for me, the rivet pin to the shaft and u-joint is a must, lots of braking action force on that part, even knowing the forward drive motion, so the drive train of the Ford has to be the best you can make.
Only fix that could be down now that the bearing was fitted and the rear end buttoned up, was to remove some metal off the rear flange of the u-joint. Had to grind off metal, file flat and check square, used some Prussian blue to remove contact points, so ended up with a few thousands clearance at the bushing face and u-joint.
Lots of fiddle fattle work just because reproduction parts need it. Sure would like NOS Ford stuff...but just can't get 'em!
Dan, once the ball joint is bolted to the hogshead there is no motion except for slight up and down, the u joint will self center. Also if the collar turns loose the bearings will separate and cause a problem any way. Not saying you guys are wrong, just saying I and others have never had a problem, Have fun, KB
Glad you haven't had issue without a pinned u-joint. But motion happens, too many worn ball joints seen, have used shims there to reduce slop of torque tube to 4th main.
With the pinned u-joint, any extra motion for the u-joint is within the driven drum shaft, just one place, not two
When the rear end was fixed on my '20 coupe I had a new u-joint and top end bushing on hand for the job from Langs.
When the new bushing was installed and the joint slipped on the original driveshaft things lined up perfectly.