Has anyone used aluminum strips instead of metal for shimming a loose felloe? I have one of my front wheels apart and ready to shim. I have aluminum stock on hand. I can get metal from a friend with a machine shop.
Just a query before I continue. I am using appliance epoxy black as suggested in a previous post.
Thanks, Sam
I've used horseshoe shaped aluminum pieces for shims.
They work fine.
(Aluminum is metal)
I am not sure what metal is in PUSH NUT WASHERS but I find that they are such poor metal that they wear out fast. I would only use steel.
Sam, are you trying to shipm between wooden felloes and the rim, or between spokes and the felloe? I use galvanized steel strips between rim and felloe, but aluminum strips shoud work just fine there.
TH
What about the steel strapping tape that is used to hold bundles of lumber together. most lumber yards have piles of the stuff. it's about the right thickness and tough as nails. I've used it between the spokes at the hub in the past, but it would probably be better out at the rim end.
Noel
To shim a wood fellow wheel, I went to Lowes and got a pre glued roll of oak veneer, about two inches wide, slipped the steel rim off the wheel, ironed the veneer to the fellow, heated the rim with a torch an slipped it back on. Replaced the rivets and trimmed the edges of the veneer after every thing had cooled down. You have to be pretty quick with several tapered punches to be sure to get the rim back where it belongs. For a steel fellow, I made a rim or spoke jack to push the fellow out from the spokes. Using modified valve spring washers, .030 inches thick, outside diameter turned down to match the spokes, inside diameter big enough to go around small end of the spoke, and shaped like a "C", place the jack at the top of the wheel still on the car. You can now place two shims, one on either side of the jack. I used gorilla glue to help hold them in place. Roll the wheel 180 degrees and repeat. Then roll 90 degrees etc until all spokes have been fixed. The valve spring washers can be purchased from any shop that grinds valves or repairs heads. The jack was made from two pieces of oak cut to fit between the spokes and fellow and spread apart with 1/2 inch ready rod.
I am shimming between the rim and the felloe. I have aluminum trim stock and a metal break so I can cut the strips to the right width. I used the trim stock and was able to drive the felloe back into the rim using a block of wood and a dead blow hammer. Took awhile to get it centered and the holes lined up. Just have to get it back on and running true. Rivets are due in this week along with new dust caps.
I was able to cut one strip just over the right length and trimmed it to a near perfect fit thanks to my metal break.
One down 1 to go. Now I have to decide if I refinish spoke and felloe natural or paint them. I stripped them before I took them apart.
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Feels great to know I can ask questions and get solid answers. 6 months a T Man and getting better and enjoying it more.
Sam
I wonder if electrolysis with aluminum strips would be a problem? Steel rim - wood that hold moisture... stainless sheet stock can be obtained from most steel suppliers as rems or cut offs for cheap(in some cases free).
I wouldn't use aluminum strips for the same reason that John posted. Dave
My father and I tightened up a good set of wheels by removing the rim, attaching wood veneer around the circumference of the felloe, heating the rim with stove element and shrinking it back around the felloe.
Others in Minnesota have used this same method using sheet metal instead of wood veneer.
This method works only if the wood is good and solid - it will not cure rotten or dried out wood. We also sand-blasted the rims and tweaked them as needed prior to re-installation.
The rim must be re-installed on its original felloe and all original respective rivet holes must be lined up.
After the rim is shrunk back on the felloe and prior to installing the plates and rivets, the wheels can fine-tuned and further trued-up per the method described in Dyke's Automobile and Gasoline Engine Encylopedia.
You can read additional information here:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/98511.html
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/227784.html?1312441455
Check the Tech Tips at modelt.org under the heading the "Wheel Tightening". The method of tightening the wheel as explained in this article is a proven repair.
Hope this helps, Russ Furstnow
Russ, That is the way I tightened this wheel. I found the same directions on a Colorado Club site. I did use aluminum painted with appliance epoxy spray before reassembly.
It does tighten up.