Have been dealing with a leaking sediment bowl on my '25 T roadster pu. It is a brass one and a repro from Lang's in 2010. Never had an issue till this season. Last time I took it off, cleaned it up and put some goop on the tapered valve and it lasted a couple weeks. Just now I took it apart and used 1000 grit lapping cmpd to get a good pattern on each end, put it together with a little goop, added an extra washer behind the cotter pin and it seems to be ok. Wondering if there is a better solution to the problem figured out by those of you out there in T land.
I leave the valve open all the time so it is not leaking from wear. Thanks, Bill
Where is it leaking specifically?
Bill, you should know better than to run a reproduction! Originals are everywhere, and if you buy enough of them, sooner or later you will find one with a good screen that you can clean out!
Seth: It leaks from the tapered shutoff valve not the drain petcock.
One chep & easy trick is to use soap as a sealer for gas. First you may try grinding the cones to fit with timesaver.
There are better products than soap as suggested here by Dan Knoll last year:
" Fittings in fuel systems should be lubricated/sealed with United Ez Turn Lubricant (aka fuelube), which complies with Military Standard MIL-G6032D. You can buy it at Aircraft Spruce, www.aircraftspruce.com. PN 09-00306 is a 5 OZ tube, $11.70. it's widely used in aviation, where properly installed fuel systems are even more critical than on a boat. (or a Model T )"
You use the yellow grades of tiomesaver for soft metals like babbitt and bronze: http://www.newmantools.com/lapping/timesaver_booklet.pdf