Reproduced Aluminum Rain Gutters . ..

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Reproduced Aluminum Rain Gutters . ..
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 07:18 pm:

. . on the sedans. They're extruded aluminum and somehow attach to a thin aluminum strip fastened to the side of sedans at the lower edge of vinyl top material (I have a '26 tudor). But, unlike the original where the gutter is screwed to the top perimeter wood and screws covered by a thin steel strip, this extruded aluminum either 'clips' onto or slides into the strip fastened to the body. Anybody have any success at attaching this product? . . . They come in 90" strips from the vendors and I've found that I only need 62"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 07:49 pm:

George, which side do you need, or do you need both sides? I may have one original or both.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 07:53 pm:

George,

It will work. You have to be careful and bent it to fit first. Then it will clip on and work fine. I would rather have the original and if I find some at a swap meet I will remove the aluminum and install the correct stuff.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:08 pm:

George,

FYI, I intended to install them to check the fit and then pop them off to paint. Once installed they were not about to pop off so I will have to mask and paint them on the car sometime.

Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Miller, Mostly in Dearborn on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:10 pm:

There's another option in steel but it's still not correct for the Model T. Snyders offers a similar gutter in steel for the Model A Tudor. I've considered using it on my '26.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:12 pm:

Yeah, that's the reproduction Model A drip rails. They need to be shaped before installing. After the base is installed, the rail snaps on. I think I remember using a wooden block to install the rail. Start on one end and hook the bottom. Go along the top and tap it in. The block needs to contact along the center of the rail so it flexes and snaps over the base. Don't tap directly over the top edge.

Those straight runs are easy. :-) Try one of these--It came as a straight piece too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:24 pm:

Forgot to mention: To get the rails off, use a tool that resembles the old "church key" but has a long flat perpendicular to the hook instead of the round or V-nose.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:32 pm:

Howdy Terry, Jak Se Mas Paul,
Thanks for the encouragement Paul. What a slick and beautiful rain gutter installation! So you just circled the perimeter of the top vinyl with hide em and installed the aluminum gutter on top? Did you first bend and install the aluminum strip and clip the bent gutter on? Use nails or wood screws? How far apart? Could you clip it on with your fingers/hands or did you use a rubber mallet? Again thats a fine looking gutter installation. I even like the shiny finish.
Terry, I've already purchased the product for both sides but thanks for the offer


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:46 pm:

Ken, you're going OT again. Your pic doesn't appear to have a 177 Cu.In. 20 HP engine !! But thanks for the instructions on how to tap the gutter onto the base. Paul, I called a local automotive paint shop asking for a primer over aluminum that'll accept oil base black finish. They had a rattle can for $22.50 But I found an old qt. can of a Hammerite brand primer out in the barn supposedly designed for aluminum and galvanized metal. Called their 1-800 # and confirmed it'll work. So I'll probably tap the gutter onto the base while its in primer and tape and paint it afterwards. Thanks for the great input guys !!!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 08:47 pm:

George,

My car is a 26 Coupe. It had beat up bent original gutters on it that looked real bad so I replaced them with the aluminum gutter. The hide em stops where the gutter starts. I used screws to mount the strip and then bent the gutter to match. Like Ken said I used a hardwood dowel that I cut to fit and then used a rawhide mallet to strike the dowel and slowly worked down the gutter snapping it into place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 09:02 pm:

. . . and probably use a thin strip of black silicone behind the gutter base and hide em?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 09:07 pm:

... Yes, I forgot that part!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, August 12, 2012 - 09:19 pm:

No, it's a 350CI but the gutter is the same. So I'm not completely off topic. :-)

When you paint (prime) that aluminum, scuff it with a fine 3M pad to remove as much of the oxidation as you can. The primer will work better. There's a chemical process to do it but it's harder to get. (Unless you're coming down.)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 08:04 am:

Good info above.
Especially about the need to prime the metal properly - and etch primer is what's needed.
On the Coupe, the rear part of the gutter is very curved. I'm not sure about the sedans.
As Paul says, you have to shape the outer part first (before painting).
However, if you screw the inner part to the car all the way along, you can't then slide the outer over it. The trick is to leave out the screw adjacent to the rear end of the inner, so that it can sit straight, away from the car. Then you slide the outer over the inner, from the rear, but go about 1" past its final position. This allows you to fit the rear screw. Then you slide the outer back over the screw head.
I also agree with the suggestion to run a bead of black silicone along the top after fitting. This stops water running down inside the gutter - the fabric is rough, so it won't seal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Saturday, August 18, 2012 - 03:13 pm:

By Golly, the Englishman was Right! All I could do by myself was install the 'bases' to the top wood on the tudor and prime the gutters. Then I discovered that my friend and best professional Model T restorer in Texas -Ross Lilliker- was passing by my house today from College Station to San Antonio to make a presentation at the T Club meeting so I waylaid him for the installation. This is definitely one product the vendors/inventors should provide instructions for. Thanks to Paul Mikeska I fastened the base to the wood with 1" wood screws every 3"-4". Then Ross suggested I countersink them - so I did. Then he fastens the front of the aluminum gutter to the rear of the aluminum base and takes my weighted rubber mallet and gently tapped the gutter all the way onto the base - both sides. We did use a little PB Blaster to lubricate the sliding action but the gutter actually did slide forward about 1/4" for every tap of the mallett. I find it interesting that the two englishmen Chris and Ross would suggest this technique and Ken and Paul recommended (and were previously successful with) the clip on technique. Anyway, we're extremely fortunate to have this young englishman in Texas to help us with our Model T addiction. Many of you know Ross and his trophy wife Jennifer; well, they're putting on the Texas T Party this October in College Station - the Hub of the Republic. Make plans to join us.. .Thanks again to all


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