Getting the head off

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Getting the head off
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 09:24 pm:

Unfortunately, the '18 Touring developed a knock a few months back. I tried to remove some shims, but there weren't any. Yeah, I committed the cardinal sin and filed the caps. That quieted it down for a few months but the knock came back. No doubt the crank journals are out of round. So.....I pulled the engine and started to disassemble it beginning with the head. All the bolts came out but one, the center bolt between 2 and 3. It decided to break off about 1/4" below the upper surface of the head. The shank of the bolt was seized up good and tight inside the head. I tried several days worth of applying PB Blaster. To no avail. I tried picking the engine up by the head with a lifting eye while knocking on the bolt with a hammer and drift pin. No luck. I tried tapping the head with a lead hammer. It would move left and right, but the bolt was turning with the head effectively screwing itself in and out of the block. I could bump it up some with the lead hammer by tapping on the water outlet flange, but it would never turn loose. I thought about turning a drill bushing on my lathe to center a bit and drill the bolt out, but a friend suggested heat first. I had considered heat, but was afraid the bolt would expand and bust the head, but I tried it anyway. Three times. About the only thing it did was make it easier to turn back and forth with the lead hammer screwing in and out of the block. I finally got it to come up maybe 1/16", so I drove some oak wedges between the block and head. Still knocking on the water outlet flange with the lead hammer. Removed the wedges. Knocked it back down with the lead hammer thinking it would break it loose. No luck. Got it started back up with the lead hammer and got the wedges back in there. I finally got it wedged up enough to clear the valves and 'screwed' the head off the block. Then it took a 2 lb. hammer and a drift pin to knock the broken bolt out of the head. I don't know what had it stuck. It was not red like rust. It was black. I guess it was rust and oil and carbon and who knows what all else mixed together. All I can say is I'm glad it was only one and THERE AIN'T NO WAY IN HADES I'M GONNA USE STUDS INSTEAD OF BOLTS TO HOLD A MODEL T HEAD ON THE BLOCK.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 10:38 pm:

What do the Model A guys say?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 10:44 pm:

Studs. Got one of them too. It has studs like its supposed to. I had to replace a head gasket on it a few years back. It was a pain to get off. Luckily, none were as tight as this one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Monday, August 13, 2012 - 11:11 pm:

Mine had the same bolt the broke off and the last one on the right hand side.. They must get water down inside them somehow but I put mine back on with Neverseize. I see that studs are mentioned often for T's and I have a question. How do you get the head past the Firewall (Dash) if you have installed studs especially the ones on the back?

Fred


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Tuesday, August 14, 2012 - 12:42 am:

Run a nut and jam nut on top, and treat 'em just like bolts until they're in place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Tuesday, August 14, 2012 - 09:22 am:

Fred Miller:

I use a rubber band on the two back head bolts or two clothes pins. I assume that would work for studs as well

picture


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Tuesday, August 14, 2012 - 10:50 am:

One way to loosen it if the engine still runs, is to loosen up all the nuts and start the engine. That will blow the head loose. Turn off the engine. Then remove all the nuts and if it won't come right off, work screwdrivers in the gasket area and pry upward end by end and side by side to raise it evenly. On a model T the regular bolts are easier to remove and the head usually comes right off. Likely water got into the center bolt hole. Could be drilled all the way through into the water jacket, or a leaky gasket. That rusted it into place. You had oil, carbon and rust mixed together giving it a black color.
Norm


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration