Wheel Project in Progress

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Wheel Project in Progress
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 01:40 pm:

A few pic's of work in progress on my front wheels. Found that they were loose between the rim and felloe. When I got the tire off and the tape that covered the inside of the rim I found that several of the rivets were not or just barely through the rim. The holes in the rim measured 7/32 to almost 1/4 inch. I removed the paint using the Citrus stripper and scrapped and sanded the wood. Finished it with Spar finish.

Rim and hub painting to come as soon as the Spar cures. Having nothing to peen the rivets against I put together this jig from old phone central office connecting hardware. Just clamps around the rim against the rivet. Draws the rivet and felloe tight against the rim. Appears to have worked.

More pic's as I progress.

I am open to comments and suggestions. By the way, as a wood turner I am partial to natural finish as opposed to paint. Just my individual preference.

Sam

Wood wheel 1

wood wheel 2

Jig 1

Jig 2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By A. J. "Art" Bell on Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 02:41 pm:




No direct connection to Caddy, but a long time friend just retired from the the company.
Maybe this will get him interested in T's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 03:44 pm:

POPS:

Did you shim the felloes as was discussed in the prior thread below?

Just curious. Did you use aluminum, sheet metal or wood?

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/304692.html?1344461249


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 04:57 pm:

I used aluminum on this one. The rim and the strip were painted with Appliance epoxy before I reinstalled the rim. I made a ring out of 49/64 plywood that is very close to the debth, edge of rim to felloe. I have got the metal strip cut and ready if needed on the right side. They are about 1/2 again in thickness. This wheel is very tight. I did not remove the hub before putting it together. I also used larger rivets, diameter and length and cut them off after placing the jig tight to make the felloe more secure.

I sometimes forget to tell all. An age thing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Semprez-Templeton, CA on Wednesday, August 15, 2012 - 05:03 pm:

Pops, I like the jig you made to cinch up the felloe for riveting. Very nice looking wheel!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Thursday, August 16, 2012 - 11:21 pm:

Hi Pops,
I tightened mine with a ball peen hammer and anvil. The pointed part of the anvil fits between the spokes and positions the rivet head against the anvil. A few good blows with the hammer seemed to tighten up the wood felloe to the steel rim as it mushroomed the rivet head to hold it tight. Working so far!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Sunday, August 19, 2012 - 02:05 pm:

A friend brought me a piece of steel 1" x 1 1/4" x 4" and I made another jig to set the rivets on wood felloe wheels. This version works very well. It is heavy enough to take the blow from my ball peen hammer. When tightened against the rivet head it pulls the felloe tight against the rim for a tight fit.

This jig was drilled to use on both the front and rear rims. Just rotate the steel block.

When I removed the 3/16 rivets I found that several were bent sharply. That is probably why the felloes were loose. The rivet holes in the wood were larger than the 3/16 rivets and the new ones would not go through the rim. Several of the holes in the rim were also larger than 3/16. I used 1/4 inch rivets that were 1 1/2" and cut them off with a dremel after drawing them tight. The wheel is very tight at this point and I can sense no movement between the felloe and rim. I do not have an anvil so I have to use this method.

Pic's of the new jig are attached.Rivet jig 1Rivet jig 2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 01:32 pm:

Finished two front wheels yesterday and remounted tires. Started on rear wheels this morning. Finish coming off much easier. Using a furniture scraper and then sanding. Does not appear to be a much to remove this time.

I now have a sand blaster and will probably use it on the inside of the wheels. Do not have a wheel puller.

Stain is MinWax Pecan with MinWax Spar gloss finish.Wheel 1Wheel 2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 01:52 pm:

Sam....Is it you intent to sandblast the wood?

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 02:15 pm:

Sam Humphries:

I always champer (bevel)the rim end of the rivet hole so when I Peen the end of the rivet is spreads and will hold a lot better. I am not sure champer is the correct term. I use a bit about 5/16" to champer (bevel?) the hole. It sure makes the rim end of the rivet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 03:15 pm:

Dave:

I think you mean countersink.

I've seen some rims with slightly countersunk rivet holes and some without.

I think it's a good idea. Also, when the rivet is peened it makes for a flatter/smoother surface.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 05:00 pm:

No, he means chamfer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 05:47 pm:

I will only sandblast the metal parts. Not sure how the sand blast will effect the wood. I will be using Walnut Shell media. I used my countersink bits to bevel the hole. I also used 1/4 inch rivets as several of the holes were larger than 3/16 rivets I got from a supplier. They were also not long enough to go through the rim.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Johnson on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 06:01 pm:

In order to create the chamfer, you need to countersink the hole.

If you slightly countersink the hole in the rim, when you peen the rivet it mushrooms very neatly in the hole.

Make sense?

Cross-sections of countersunk holes of various chamfer angles
1


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 06:03 pm:

Mike humpries:

I like you idea of the anvil. I use a piece of railroad track for mine so I don't have a point. I have two each two by four steel 12 inch pieces of metal in my press. I take one and put it in my rather large vise and let it stick out. I then rest the wheel on the steel two by four on the head of the rivet, the same way you do on your anvil. IT WORKS!!!!. There is an anvil at every farm sale, but the farmers bid higher for them than I can.

picture


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 06:04 pm:

Mike humpries:

I like you idea of the anvil. I use a piece of railroad track for mine so I don't have a point. I have two each two by four steel 12 inch pieces of metal in my press. I take one and put it in my rather large vise and let it stick out. I then rest the wheel on the steel two by four on the head of the rivet, the same way you do on your anvil. IT WORKS!!!!. There is an anvil at every farm sale, but the farmers bid higher for them than I can.

picture


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Thursday, August 23, 2012 - 11:48 am:

I finally got the Left Rear Wheel off this morning and removed the tire. This wheel has a thin shim already in place so it has been repaired.

My surprise and now concern is that the rivets were loose though peened and some of the holes redrilled. There was also an extra rivet installed (7 in all)

I am considering having the holes in this rim welded over and redrilling them once the felloe is reinstalled.

Attached are photo's of rim and some of the rivets I removed. The rivets held up by the triangle are the ones that appear to have not been peened.
}rim 1rim 2rim 3rim 4rim 5rim 5rim 6


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Sam "POPS" Humphries on Thursday, August 23, 2012 - 11:52 am:

Additional photo of brake lining. Both different. Do not know what the right side has, looks like woven material. Looks like some parts are in order, linings and seals. LR appears to be leaking. Grease all over linings.Brake 1brake 2


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