Let me see if I am understanding the situation...
Before I start the T, I pull the lever back, which engages the brakes at the axle.
The question is, is this also suppose to activate the transmission brake band?
I have taken the cover off the transmission, and that is what is seems to happen.
So when I turn over the engine with the lever pulled back, it wants to start. But the RPM is obviously lower with the hand brake engaged and the transmission brake engaged...(story continues..)
Ok, so I have adjusted the screw, and the clevis as much as I think I should - maybe 1/2" of play is left in the pedal, loosened the bands enough so everything will turn - at some point or another (yea, dad had them very tight) and everything else I can think of, BUT..
With the back of the car off the ground (yes, I over complicate things) I release the brake lever halfway....turn over the engine... and the RPM is obviously faster than with the lever pulled back, but the rear wheels turn...is this right?
If not...I think I have a real problem...
I don't mind the "buy the book" answer if it will solve the problem...but help me understand if this is the way it is suppose to be, or if I really do have a problem
Thanks,
cj
Buy the Book -
OK now that that is out of the way-
Jack up the wheel and put the brake lever half way down.
(Better yet use a jack stand!)
It should release the rear brakes and put the vehicle in neutral.
When you start the car the rear wheel will spin because the oil in the trans makes the internal clutch drag.
Once it is warmed up you can pull the brake handle all the way back.
If things are adjusted correctly the wheel should stop spinning and the motor will slow down just a little.
Just for fun you can put the brake handle part way forward and press the low peddle and the wheel will spin.
Then press the brake peddle to stop the wheel spinning -release it and try reverse.
Then do the brake peddle again - release it and press forward again. Then move the brake handle all the way forward and slowly release the forward peddle.
Now the rear wheel will spin faster.
Pull the brake handle part way back to let things slow down and then all the way back to stop the wheel.
Next remove the jack -jack stand - and have fun!
CHALK THE WHEELS OR YOU WILL HAVE something smashed in front of the car. Do this even with the rear wheels off the ground.
Bob
When the brake lever is pulled back all the way the high gear clutch is held disengaged and the drum brakes on the rear wheels are set. The lever has nothing to do with the transmission brake. This is how I would make sure every thing is adjusted right. Remove the clutch pedal connection clevis pin and put the floor boards back in. Push each pedal down firmly one at a time. The pedals should stop no more than 1 inch from the floor. If a pedal stops more than one inch from the floor the band is too tight and if the pedal stops less than one inch it is too loose. Now remove the floor boards and adjust the bands if necessary then test the adjustment again. After the bands are adjusted take the floor boards out and throw the brake lever forward. Pull the clutch pedal all the way back and adjust the clevis so that when the pin is inserted you have about 1/16 play in the pedal. Finally sit in the car and push the clutch pedal into neutral with your foot. Next pull the lever back. You should see the clutch release bolt rise slightly higher when the brake lever is pulled back. Adjust the bolt if necessary and run down the lock nut. To adjust the parking brake turn the brake rod clevises 1/2 turn each until you can pull the lever back and it will stop firmly with out hitting the seat but, when the lever is vertical the brakes do not drag. When you adjust the brake rods make sure to turn the clevises in equal amounts.
Stephen
You need to find a T person to give you some lessons so you don"t get hurt or tear up your T
First thing before you start your T ... get the Jelf shelf. Buying the book will definitely help you solve the problem, because you will discover how the T should work when properly adjusted.
Finding the neutral sweet spot is sometimes a matter of trial and error due to worn or poorly adjusted parts. If the transmission bands are too tight as you suggest, excessive drag will cause the transmission to fight itself. You need to get the bands adjusted correctly before you tackle the clutch adjustment.
As mentioned above the T clutch uses a set of wet plates, which when filled with oil can cause the T to creep, as you have discovered. For this reason when I turn off my T after driving, I release the E brake all the way so that the clutch is fully engaged, which causes the oil to be squeezed out from between the plates which aids in starting from cold the next time. Good luck on your project.
Collin,
Break it into several tasks.
Lift the rear on jack stands. Lever all the way back. Try turning it with the crank and the ignition off. If it doesn't turn the engine with the wheels locked up...adjustment time.
First, disconnect the brake clevis at the rear wheel on both sides, rock the wheels, try the crank again. Spins? It is a rear brake adjustment issue, and that is undoing the other end of the brake rods from the cross yoke, and walking the mechanical adjustments back in with lots of hook it up, unhook, try again so that all the way back they grab...half back they don't. You may want to count turns or figure out equal drag as they need to be set close to equal within about 1/2 turn.
2nd...with the lever 1/2 to full back the tranny bands are out of the equation. If not, find out why and adjust using the above sketch as a guideline and not a fixed rule...when done make sure it does not go over center on a hard press as it will self lock in low.
3rd...with 1 and 2 out of the way and confident, jack-stand one rear wheel, chock both fronts, make sure nothing is in the way, hand lever full forward and start the car. It should spin smooth as silk. Now, slowly pull the hand lever back to the 12 o'clock position and listen...should be no groaning or biting. Then go full back and the rear wheels should lock without stalling the engine or bogging it down.
If it does stall, and 1 and 2 have been checked and found OK, you have goopy and stuck clutch plates. I have always been lucky and been able to get them unstuck on cars I bring out of hibernation by leaving the cars fast idle on the jackstand and then play with the lever stick by pulling in slowly and if it bogs then off and on quick. May take a couple of times but I've been lucky enough to have them start to slip.
There are different points of view on what to do next...my view is once unstuck, dump in some ATF, play some more, and do an oil change. Others flush and replace, yet others go for detergent oil. Name your poison, they all seem to work. DO park it with the stick forward, may be an old wives tale...but it does seem to keep the stickies at bay if #2 is set right.
Good luck.
It is possible to have the transmission brake engage when the parking brake is pulled all the way back. This can happen if you have an older style clevis on Rocky Mountain brakes. The newer clevis is slotted so that the parking brake lever does not move the foot brake pedal, but on the older type, when you pull on the parking brake, it moves the equalizer for the rocky mountain brakes which is connected to the foot brake pedal and so it will also apply the transmission brake band. Now I don't know whether you have that type or not.
It is a good idea whether or not you jack the T to chock the front wheels when starting for the first time of the day. The oil can get thick between the clutch disks and between the bands and the drums and cause the car to roll forward. Especially if you are hand cranking the car this is important so that you don't get run over!
Norm