Hey guys.
Awhile back I posted that my 4 dip 26' pan was bent bad. I picked up a beat to hell 27' engine and got the pan off of it today. The outside looks solid because it was coated in grease and dirt, after cleaning it's right down to shiny metal. However, the inside is a nightmare. It's pretty rusty in there. I hit it with a pressure washer at the car wash, and wire brushed it while wet.l Then I took some 120 grit sandpaper to it. It's still pretty rusty/not smooth though. Does anybody have some cleaning tips for this?
If the rust is that tight I wouldn't worry about it.
If you want to worry about it go to an old fashioned hardware store, if there is such a thing there, and get some muriatic acid which will eat the rust in no time flat.
Be downwind when you use it.......the fumes are murder.......almost literally.......
Media blast it.
Be sure to pull the plug and clean the sump of all blasting material.
After scrub clean or blasting, when the metal is free of rust, then coat the surfaces inside with Glyptal enamel, fills up those pits, and will slick it up for the oil to flow
Matt, I would media blast it too. Or, you can try a product called Evap-o-rust available at Tractor supply.
Evap-o-rust is also available at O'Reilly.
These are something that can be dipped at your local machine shop as well, I've helped my Dad clean a lot of them by hand he always did a Great job but were talking hours of work!
So now all of our axle housings, oil pans, go to the shop for a good boiling out, it's the only way to go. Best $ 20.00 bucks you'll ever spend!
Muriatic acid is readily available at swimming pool supply stores. I paid about $6 for a gallon this spring.
After its clean, you may find some pin holes. Smear some slow drying JB Weld on the bottom. It will not be affected by the heat of the oil. Nothing wrong with Glyptol, but I've had it chip off in places. Not so with JB Weld. A good fix.
Be very careful with muriatic acid. The fumes can kill you and can also do serious damage to anything nearby and downwind. Also rinse and/or neutralize thoroughly. I usually follow the muriatic with several good rinses, then a good coating of phosphoric (metal-prep) acid which helps to prevent future rust. Inside a pan, be a little careful of acid contamination. Change the oil quickly and often for the first couple hundred miles. Glyptol is also a good suggestion, but seems to be difficult to get around here.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
If using acid, Phosphoric acid seems safer to use.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid#Rust_removal
I myself use the electronic method of rust removal for smaller parts:
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
It's dirt cheap - the water and PH+ (for the pool) I put in the bucket 5 months ago isn't used up yet. The method can be scaled up for larger objects like an oil pan with a larger plastic container, more water and a bigger piece of sacrificial sheet metal. Maybe a bigger battery charger too, but a small one should work, it just takes more time to clean a part with larger surface area.
Baking Glyptal to properly cure it: www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/152476.html.
Jim Patrick
evap-o-rust 1 Gal. at Tractor Supply $19.00
Works real good for what it is. Works just like
diluted Muric acid.
Thanks for the help guys. I Pressure washed it, then wire brushed it carefully,, then used this tool that's like a grinder but fits a wire brush piece to it instead: made my hogshead (replacement one I found) look new. Did a good job on the pan too. I think I'll try some muriatic acid on it too to get what's left. Unfortunately this pan is also dented at the wishbone joint area like the last one, but I think I can fix it.
Matthew, if you already have it THAT clean don't worry about what's left.......