was just wondering what the best way to change the front motor mount on my 1927 Touring was?
I would have tried to lift the front end of the engine a couple of inches with a floor jack under the front of the oil pan, like under rod #1 - put a piece of wood in between - then I would have tried to slide the engine mount sideways on the crossmember until it's free & can be pulled and replaced. A few blows with a lead hammer may persuade it to move if it's stubborn.
I would think that if you unbolted the rear mounts, disconnected the fuel line, choke, fuel mixture controls and the control rods attached to the steering column the front of the engine could be jacked up. The front motor could then be lifted slightly to release it from the dimples in the frame and then slid to the side and wiggled out. Since the engine is loose in the frame at this point the front of the engine could probably be pushed off to the side slightly for additional clearance.
Would be best to lift the engine as in removal,
take out engine/frame bolts (2 on each side), release wishbone, disconnect all the lines, controls, exhaust pipe nut, free exhaust pipe from manifold,... the u-joint could probably tilt up enough.
There has to be a several inches of space under the front bearing of the motor to get the old mount out and the new one in
Dan, is that a belt riveted to the crank pulley in the picture? Any idea why?
Dennis
Yes, a piece of old time external brake shoe fabric lining wrapped around the pulley and then fastened to it with little stove bolts and nuts.
If only the old Ford could talk
So many shade tree fixes in the old days pop up on the Ford. Surely this 'fix' was the mechanics way of solving a wandering off fan belt.
Bit of extra friction provided by that lining, when oil is pouring out the crankshaft felt seal onto the shiny slick metal crank pulley!
To speed up the fan for parade use. Ha Ha
Since you already have the radiator off and the motor mount clamp unbolted, nothing else has to be disconnected except the rear engine mounts should be loosened a little so they don't bind when tilting the front of the engine up slightly. The engine only has to be tilted up a little (maybe 3/4"). Just enough for the clamp to slide to one side from under the nose and the new clamp installed in it's place next to the nose of the engine and slid under the motor mount and clamped in place. You can take the opportunity to install a new front spring cushion on top of the spring and center the spring under the front crossmember, if needed. Jim Patrick
If you have someone to help you, the front of the motor can be lifted via the crank handle. One person lifts, the other removes the motor mount.
I was really hoping someone would have done this without removing the whole engine. I didn't want to go through the process of disconnecting everything and setting up a hoist in my garage. Would it be possible to place a jack under the front of the engine and raise it that way, just enough to get the mount out?
Thanks Jim and Erik. guess it helps if I update the page before responding.
The Ford car is a flexible design. Can't see it would hurt since you don't have to move it much to get it out sideways.
I think you can Joe......I would take the bolts out of the rear mounts so you don't "tweek" the ears.....Then like Erik said lift the crank handle a bit to clear.....WHA-LA,,,,,put a little 2x4 block between frame & the "snout" of the pan ,,clean the frame & slide the mount in place....You've got the hard part done with the Rad. out of the way......Tell us all how it went......Oh, and a BIG shady spot under a tree would be the place to work on it....Good Luck,,,we're all puulin' for Ya'....Carl
Pretty sure Karl and Roger are right. In any case it wouldnt hurt to try. Just jack it up slow and watch for any binding.
May want to disconnect the exhaust pipe from the manifold, but it probably would be fine if not.
Vince m
well, it looks like this project will have to wait till winter. The frame is bent on both sides of the mount, apparently to hold it centered? guessing this was done by a previous restorer. In the mean time, I will just have to settle for driving it with a missing radiator apron.
Joe,
If your broken apron bolt is the problem, why not just drill out the bolt and if necessary re-tap at a larger size? If you are good and lucky you may be able to drill it just inside the treads and pull the thread out in a spiral. In either case it would likely be easier then replacing the mount and you have nothing to lose.
Jim