Magnito Rebuild Question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Magnito Rebuild Question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael J. Wilcox on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 03:35 pm:

I have been reading the Forum every day for about a year now and I consider myself to be somewhat of Model T expert with very little practical experience. My 23 Touring was rescued from the elements many years ago. It has been in my garage since, as a project for retirement, which is now approaching.

It was surprising that it took only one weekend to turn the entire car into a pile of sheet metal sitting in the corner of the shop, with running gear components, brackets etc. stacked on every level surface in my shop along with dozens of baggies full of parts.

Rebuilding a magneto is educational, but not that much fun so far. It’s also difficult to ignore the engine and transmission, now that their parts are all over my bench. These are the three most immediate priorities at the moment.

I sent my field coil to Wally Szumowski at "Total Recoil" and I should get a new one soon. Apparently one of the magnets broke or the screw came loose and the coils were damaged by the flying debris. I also found a collection of metal chips in the Bendix cover and pan with no clue what happened to the spring, counter weight on the gear and the mounting bolts. They may have started the whole chain of events.

I thought it would be prudent to get my magnets recharged when I find a new one to replace the one broken. I purchased new brass screws to mount the magnets back on the flywheel from Lang’s and they are definitely not the same as the originals. The originals are much heavier in construction, weighing almost an ounce more and they were apparently much longer before being staked on the ring gear at the factory. I have purchased most of the parts from Lang’s and am satisfied generally with the quality but these screws remind me of some of the parts I used to get back in the 60’s for my Model A’s when everything was made in Taiwan,

Here is the problem. These screws are not long enough to make it out of the holes on the ring gear, where they can be adequately staked. Using a counter punch to expand the threads in the hole is not the same as creating a mushroom to prevent the screw from coming out, as was the case with the originals. The Ford Service Bulletins also describe using a chisel to cut off the end of the screws when replacing the ring gear so they apparently should be much longer. I also had to buy one of the square washers for the broken magnet and I noticed that it was not recessed as deep for the head of the screw as the originals. After relieving it slightly it is better, but that does not seem to be a resolution, when the screws are definitely the main problem. Has anyone experienced these concerns and solved the problem? Do any of the other suppliers have something of better quality?

I know you have discussed this subject before, but I would appreciate some additional advice before proceeding. I probably wouldn’t think twice about this if I had not seen all the damage that can be done if everything is not correct.

Thank You


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:05 pm:

Several things you must know. The magnets are opposite polarity so that when assembled they are NN SS NN SS etc. That is the north pole of one magnet is placed next to the north pole of the next magnet, then the south poles are placed together. So if you replace a magnet you need one of the same polarity. Hopefully the weight of the magnet will be approximately equal each of the others so that the flywheel will remain balanced. Another thing is that you need to test all the magnets to be sure none are cracked. There are many posts telling how to do that. The magnets should be charged off the flywheel. That way you will have the strongest possible charge. They can be charged on the flywheel but they well do better if charged before placing them. You need the proper brass screws. They must be long enough to peen the end after installation. Do not try to "expand" the threads inside the starter ring. Perhaps your screws were made for a non starter engine? The magnets should be placed so that they are equal height over the flywheel. There is a tool made for measuring that height. maybe someone in your local club has one or knows someone who has one. There are other details which all contribute to a smoother running engine such as flywheel runout and main shaft runout. I would suggest that you get help from someone in your local club so that it is done right the first time and you won't need to remove the engine again to do it all over. The magnets should also be within .025 and .040 clearance from the magneto ring. Closer to .025 is better. This is accomplished by shimming out the ring from the block and then measuring all the way around. Rotate the flywheel and check again in several positions. This measurement should be made with the engine being supported nose down letting the crankshaft hang so that it is in the farthest forward position it can be when the engine is running. Do not support under the front pulley because that will push the crankshaft back.

This work is not hard to do, but it is time consuming and detail oriented.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Patterson-Nicholasville, Kentucky on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:29 pm:

Michael
Give me a call and I will be glad to help you.
I have rebuilt many flywheels, have a proper magnet recharger, tools and am familiar with the magnet clamp screw/clamp issues.
I will be in the shop 11am to 4pm every day.
Ron the Coilman
859-881-1677


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael J. Wilcox on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 05:45 pm:

Thank you both for the valuable information.I appreciate your response to my question.


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