I recently purchased a 1926 Model T touring and found that one of the rear wheels has loose spokes. I owned several T's back in the 70's but they all had wire wheels so this wooden wheel thing is a mystery to me. I removed the four bolts securing the rim to the wheel and now can't figure out how to remove the wheel. There seems to be a "ridge" on the inside of the rim that keeps the wheel from sliding off of the wheel. What is the secret to removing the wheel? Also, how does one go about removing and replacing the spokes? I have found several sources for the hickory spokes; but, no information as to how to replace the old ones. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks Jim
You need a wheel puller to remove the rear wheel:
http://www.modeltford.com/item/2800WP.aspx
Cheaper version - but harsher for the axle innards: http://www.modeltford.com/item/2800KO.aspx (you need to lift the opposite side wheel)
Here is the plans on how to make a spoke press from John Regans "Fun Projects" website: http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/WheelpressA2.pdf
Here's one of many threads on the forum describing the use: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/302832.html?1343608540
Ok, missed the question there - rim won't leave wheel.. Strange? Non Ford rims? If just a little interference, some force with a proper tool (crowbar) may help? Be careful with the four lugs, I have a few rims where some of the lugs are missing, so maybe they aren't all that strong (welded and ground I think, sometimes too much of the weld was ground off?)
ah, sounds like your using wheel and rim and wheel all meaning the same thing. once u take the 4 bolts off that hold the split rim to the wood wheel, turn it so the valve stem is on the bottom , then tap from behind the split rim with a hammer, get the top off let it slid e down off the wood wheel, to clean the valve stem, some times the studs have trouble coming thru the lugs, just keep working it forth and back, it will come. then u will need puller for the hub, most times
Sounds as though that rim has been there for a while and dirt, mud and or rust has made it hard to remove, or the rim could be distorted from improper methods of contracting it to remove the tire. After you take off the nuts, take a small punch with a hammer and drive the bolts out. They will come out the rear side of the felloe. Be careful not to damage the threads. after the 4 bolts are removed, the rim should be easier to remove. Start removing the edge opposite the tire valve and lastly remove the valve from the hole in the felloe. Then use a split rim jack to compress the rim and the tire should be easy to remove. There is at least one post about how to properly use the split rim jack. Remove and replace in the way shown on the posts so you will not distort the rim.
Norm
For removing the wheel from the axle. Front wheels remove the hub cap remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut, remove the special washer with the tab which fits into a notch in the spindle, and unscrew the outer cup of the bearing. The wheel should come right off. Note the wheel bearing on the right hand of the car has left threads, so turn in the opposite direction to remove or replace.
The rear wheels will be harder to remove. Remove the hub cap, cotter pin and nut. There is a special puller made to screw onto the threads which hold the hub cap. Screw that on all the way and tighten the screw locking it in place. Then screw in the large bolt in the middle of the puller and the wheel should come off. If it is stubborn, you can leave the nut on the axle but back off about a turn, then tighten the wheel puller as much as you can and drive the car a short distance and that will usually loosen it up. Don't drive any more than necessary to loosen the wheel so you don't mess up the axle or hub. It is easy to remove the spokes, but harder to replace them. See posts on spoke replacement. There are many. Note, if you are going to order new spokes, be sure to specify shaggy bark Hickory. It is much stronger than Oak. There are different size tenons on the end of the spokes as well as different lengths, so be sure to order the right ones for your wheel. Even sometimes the same car will have different size if one or more wheels have been replaced at some time in the past, so check the spokes on each wheel before you order and order the right ones wheel by wheel.
Norm
Jim, you may have an unfortunate rim/wheel combination. If the rim has gone on with the lip around the rim going over the outside edge of the wheel, it may have been forced that way by the four lug bolts. Getting it off again may be a call for more force.
I once purchased a pair of accessory 21" Hayes wire wheels which use Hayes brand rims. one was fitted with a Ford rim which had gone on over the edge of the wheel. The only way I could remove it was to cut both the rim and tyre off the wheel. Fortunately both were beyond use.
I would advise you check your other wheel and rim combinations and see if there is any difference with the stuck one. If they are all the same then proceed as others have suggested. Good luck with it.
Allan from down under