Bleeding Texas T disc brakes

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Bleeding Texas T disc brakes
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lee Crenshaw Richmond Va. on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 05:31 pm:

I've been bleeding these disc brakes till I'm blue in the face. Someone please give me a tip.
Lee


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Blancard on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 06:10 pm:

Lee - I must be just behind you in the installation process. I just got my brake pedal/shaft swapped out today. Will probably install the master cylinder tomorrow. I hope to be bleeding soon after. I'm looking forward to responses from those who have successfully bled them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Cassara Long Island, NY on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 06:25 pm:

Lee and Steve I've never bleed the Texas T brakes but it should be pretty straight forward. What is happening and how are you going about it.....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Cassara Long Island, NY on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 06:30 pm:

http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9659302/40/?omniturePageName=Product+Deta ils+Controller

The usual problem is drawing air back into the caliper / wheel cylinder when bleeding. This device or a DIY version can prevent this. It is also essential to keep the master cylinder reservoir full at all times. A low level in the master can draw air even though it's not empty.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lee Crenshaw Richmond Va. on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 06:37 pm:

Steve, I think I should point out to others that the brake pedal can be removed and replaced without removing the hogshead. I compressed the brake band and tied it off with mechanics wire. This took the pressure off the adjusting nut and made it's removal a breeze. I did remember to stuff the transmission with rags.
I will give high marks the the gentleman who engineered this setup and to Texas T Parts for furnishing ALL required parts down to the mechanics' wipes to tidy up with.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Diederich on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 06:38 pm:

I.am in the process of instlling mine on my 1917. I gravity bled them until the air bubbles stopped. I found two things yhat would make the installation easier, one is to mount the rotor assy to the brackets for centering the calipers to the rotors before you mount the wheels you will have to remove the rotors to mount the wheels later but it is easier to adjust the calipers to thr rotors. Also if you use the old style alignment shims it is easier to adjust them than using the washers that are provided I,am not done with mine yet as I,am also doing some engine work. At this time I don't know if I<am done with the bleeding process or not but I think so. Bob diederich #22350


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Blancard on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 07:39 pm:

Lee - yes, I was able to change the pedal/shaft without removing the hogshead. It was a little tricky, but I got it. I've only owned my T for about a month, so. this is all new to me. But so far things are going well. The kit does seem to be very well designed. I hope bleeding goes well too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Goelz-Knoxville,TN on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 08:19 pm:

I purchased a brake bleeder and pumped them until the bubbles stopped, it will take a long time, i have them on both cars.

Rick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Cassara Long Island, NY on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 08:33 pm:

Bleeding brakes is a process. Bleed the master then attach the lines. Bleed the lines then attach the calipers. Bleed the calipers. Keep in mind to keep the master topped off. One slip up at the master and you end up with air in the system and have to start over.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 10:19 pm:

I've been bleeding brakes on old Jaguars and MGTD's with the bleeder on the bottom of the bottom cylinder. It can be a hopeless job.
As stated above, don't let the master go dry. Get 4 feet of fuel hose or vacuum hose to put on any bleeder and stick it into a hole punched in a fruit jar cover on a fruit jar or use a coke bottle.
Open the bleeder a half turn or more, hold the catch jar/bottle up about three feet above the wheel and have a helper pump the brake pedal.
The pedal needs to be pushed to the floor and let up for about 3 seconds and then pushed down again. Don't pump real fast and not real slow.
After 5 pumps the fluid needs to be checked in the master.
After bleeding that wheel four times you should close the bleeder and go to the other wheel and do the same.
After you start getting fluid without air bubbles go back to the first wheel and see how the fluid flow is.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stauffacher on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 12:11 am:

I initially had trouble bleeding these brakes due to my not using the correct fitting on the caliper. The bleed nipple is really small and fits into a larger 3/8(?) fitting. I was opening the latter! Once I used the correct bleed nipple, the job was effortless!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep NZ on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 04:33 am:

If the drain thing is at the bottom you will not have much luck, It has to be at the top for the air to escape?. Does that help?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Blancard on Friday, August 31, 2012 - 10:29 pm:

Lee - did you get your brakes bled?


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