Anderson timer - Wiring and timer rod

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Anderson timer - Wiring and timer rod
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 08:32 pm:

I didn't want to hi-jack a somewhat related thread .. but I'll post here to reference photos:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/281744.html?1335555624

My timer/commutator rod end at the timer is too short to go through the timer rod hole .. so I can't put a cotter pin in it. Initial 'dry' tests showed it staying in .. but certainly not with the engine running. It seems to be otherwise bent correctly. The OTHER end .. at the steering column is seemingly too long, but doesn't bother anything. From Snyder's, it looks like I should order the T-3534-B (mine is a '24 roaster). The photo doesn't look much better than mine, though.

When looking for examples .. I ran across the post linked above. Don's photos show what appears to be a LOT of slack in the wiring harness. Mine is a banjo string. Someone said the wiring harness should be under the hood shelf, next to the stand-off blocks under them. But, by the service manual, it should be on top. That, in itself, won't make much difference. I've seen a couple photos that had the harness going down the carburetor needle valve adjustment. That WOULD make quite a difference ... but doesn't seem appropriate.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 10:26 pm:

The important thing about the wireing harness is that it doesn't contact moving parts such as the needle valve adjustment or anything near the timer. When you rotate the timer the wires should not come in contact with anything which might wear out the insulation or ground the wire. Because if you ground one of those wires the coil will spark. It should only spark when the timer flap is in contact with it inside the timer.

As for the rod. Is there enough rod sticking out to allow you to drill another hole for a cotter pin? It should have the pin and if the rod should come out when you retard the spark for starting, it could result in leaving the spark advanced which could cause the engine to kick. If you can't drill the rod or get the cotter pin to go in, you should get another rod.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Saturday, August 25, 2012 - 10:45 pm:

Norm ...

There is enough slack for the timer to move, and nothing binding... but just barely. Seems someone was just being a little bit cheap on the wire. If the red and black leads were just another inch longer, then I think things would be just right.

Looks like a new rod for me ... the rod isn't even out to the end of the timer 'eye'... let alone sticking out enough to re-drill. The other end is plenty long enough .. but the pattern in the rod isn't reversible. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Barker, Somerset, England on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 05:24 am:

I would hazard a guess that your rod has worn badly sometime in the last 88 years, and has been cut off and re-drilled. But it can only be used with a 'cheap' timer which has just a sngle thickness of steel as its 'eye'.
Before you call Snyders, you have nothing to lose by trying to rebend the whole rod to make it fit reversed. Or you could mend the rod with a new short piece welded on and bent...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 03:23 pm:

Chris ..
Well... I DID happen to purchase a cheap AC welder at a garage sale yesterday. I'm sure it won't weld what I hoped it would (too thick of stock) .. but I can likely use it to braze a new end on the rod! Like you say .. what do I have to loose? I'll probably end up with a rod way too long, as I'll get the brazing rod Ir-retrievably stuck on the end of the rod! LOL


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 03:51 pm:

You can pay about $4 plus shipping for a new rod, or you can go to town and buy a piece of rod for under $2 and make your own. Either way, it's pretty cheap and you don't have to worry about a weld breaking.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Hoshield on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 06:51 pm:

Steve .... yep ... I did order a new one late Sat night from Langs ... but would like to give the weld a crack ..ummm ... well . not a crack, I hope...

We ended up going to a 1700's fort .. For Michilimackinac, where my wife does volunteer work on many of her days off ..

http://www.mackinacparks.com/colonial-michilimackinac/

I took my newly acquired Cleveland Truck Body Forgings book up with me to talk to the blacksmith up there about maybe making a couple rear sill braces for the pickup. He thought it might be out of his 'range', but when I told him how I would do it myself, he gave it a shot .. They came out just fine! Yep .. a little more rustic than bought ones, but kinda kewl, nonetheless. I'll post a separate thread on it when I get one of them drilled and threaded.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chad Marchees on Sunday, August 26, 2012 - 08:38 pm:

Dennis, When I put the Anderson in mine, it wouldn't even come close to lining up. After many frustrating hours of trying to bend the already over bent original rod, I gave up. I bought a new one from Lang's and I didn't even have to touch it. It fell right into place. Sometimes its not worth it to mess with old parts.


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