A local, JVK, who rebuilt the Fronty's tranny a dozen years ago, put on four oil slinger paddles, that consist of 1" hardware store aluminum angle. He canted two to sling outward, and two canted inward. The inward canted ones seem contrary to me.
They have held up well, but I'm wondering if four is overkill, especially with the lightening holes in the flywheel? Zero seems risky.
I'll try to post a pic of the mounted paddles later.
It depends on how fast the engine will turn. I sold a Rajo that could turn 6000 at a stand still and it didn't need paddles, just the magnet mounting bolts in the flywheel. If you can turn around 4500 use two and if you are stock use four, you asked and that's my answer.
i dont have them and always felt leary about it. until the day the felt on the hogshead slipped when i was intalling it, i didnt notice and started the engine. at an idle within about 5 seconds of run time there was about a quart of oil on the floor. i dont worry now
I can tell you from my own testing that 2 spools on each post,cold oil and running with the mag post completly removed and running for about 30 seconds I ended up with 3 drops of oil that actualy left the Hogs Head. 2 went up and back in and 1 made it outside of the housing. When I redid my engine I was stupid and still did not put flippers in. IDIOT ! when it comes back apart I will install flippers and the big oiler on top. I did not put flippers in because a bunch of guys said they will break. What are your guys thoughts ?
i should say mine has the magnet posts and screws in it.
I think there were two types of paddles made - the less sturdy type was more prone to breaking than the other. I also think the best way to tap the oil and create a good flow to the front bearings is with a hole in the hogshead carefully lined up with the flywheel - like Terry Horlick's mountain oil system or Texas T part's kit. With that kind of flow to the front, the lack of magnets and even lack of slingers might not be a problem?
The mag post hole is just too far off to get a good oil flow, particularily with a bare flywheel in there.
A simple internal sheet metal scoop that diverts some oil to the trans may help - I noticed Clayton's problems with the clutch discs wearing and needing frequent adjustments when he ran his old engine with a bare flywheel.
The internal oil pipe can be extended and moved back to scoop oil closer to a bare flywheel. Holes in the flywheel should increase turbulence in the oil mist whirling around in there - can't hurt
I'm trying without both magnets and slingers in my next engine. Thinking it'll work well, but can't be sure until it's been tested for some time. Your (& mine) mileage may vary..
the ford faithful system works good, forgot to hook that up once too...lol
Ralph, Sorry don't have a opinion on paddles but nice flywheel. Do you know how much weight was taken off over stock?
Don't get caught up the creek without a paddle.
Hey Mike,
When your sweetie paddles you don't let her get ahold of two or four paddles.
You'll be sorry!
Mike, this flywheel is 21 lb; stock is nearer 40.
Thanks for all the good info, guys. A local guy showed me a broken steel paddle that is larger than what I've used. I use a 3/8 pipe scoop in line and downstream from the mag post. Moving the pickup aft is a good idea.
This paddle is road tested. There was a bit about a crankshaft flange that gradually broke off and scattered little pieces before failing completely.
As talented and creative as you are Ralph, I'm sure that you can come up with something that at least looks more professional than that. That looks like something a hardware store guy like me would build (and rebuild and rebuild).
I tore down a couple engines that had blued wrist pins from no paddles or bobbins just my two cents.
It's experienced, Dennis. It's a dozen years old, and probably made in the US. I wouldn't chance new stuff. Does it really look any more Rube Goldberg than those 16 brittle magnets held by little brass plates?
Thanks for the info, Joe.
I have used the four paddle version sold by Texas T with some success. I use it in my 1914 Touring and even more compelling in a customers car... Both are only warmed up a little, and both only run up to 2,000 rpm. In general I think I support Franks ideas on how many to use. I know that none in a standard motor WILL fail, ask Jack Chidgey.
why is it all dinged up?
Again: "This paddle is road tested. There was a bit about a crankshaft flange that gradually broke off and scattered little pieces before failing completely."
I love it. They look fine why pay for light wieght steel that is prone to break ?