Replacing valves question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Replacing valves question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Baker on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 03:35 pm:

I have a 23 engine I will be working on this winter so I have a spare. I want to replace the 2 piece valves, with new one piece valves. The question I have is do I need the valve seats in the block machined or can I just hand lap the new valves in with valve grinding compound? Thanks James


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Garrison on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 03:46 pm:

Look at the seat area, if they're eroded you'll for sure want to cut new seats or better yet have the block machined for hardened replaceable seats. To be honest I don't believe you'll be able to simply lap new one piece valves to get them to seat. But then I've been wrong before. One thing you might want to consider is pulling your camshaft and putting in new adjustable lifters. Take a look at the lifters you've got now. Are they dished on top from years of wear? The new valves are a really smart choice and if the seats can be lightly ground and made round, then you might get away with just lapping the new valve in. Regrinding the seats isn't a big deal, there's probably a million old Sioux valve grinders out there that seldom get used. They're a great machine but with the new, simpler cutters available just get one of those and cut your own seats. Good luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 04:01 pm:

A friend did valve jobs in two of my T's.
I got the 1/64" over ss valves, a reamer, new springs and all that.
He ground all the seats without removing the engine but had to move it forward to get to the rear most valve. Luckily the seats in the block were good enough to stand a little grinding.
The difference in both cars was huge!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cameron Whitaker on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 05:26 pm:

Being a college student with almost no money, I couldn't afford to have new seats installed. I just lapped the valves like crazy, and it seemed to work fine. Of course I put less than 200 miles on my T a year. Eventually, I will have hardened valve seats installed.

I'm even going to install bronze valve guides!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 05:38 pm:

Cameron, if you drive it that little, and even when you get to driving it a LOT, your valve job will last a LOOOOOOOOONG time....... :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 06:05 pm:

James Baker:

Don't let anyone talk you into installing NEW springs unless you check them on a spring checker. I have found some very weak NEW springs. I always put used springs in a spring checker and can always find at least 8 springs that check at 24 lbs or better. In fact I like to use 28 lbs.
If your seats are good enough you can lap them in with valve grinding compound. The best T mechanics that I know use what I believe is called a TRUE GRINDING SET to face your seats. I am not sure that is what they are called, I am out of town and can not check mine to see what its called, maybe some one else can tell you. There should be someone in your club that will either face your valves for you or let you barrow a set. The set works very fast and will not take you very long to clean the seat.

Cameron Whitaker:

You have to ream the valve guides out when you install the Chevie 350 exhaust valves or the Ford V8 Valves (I forgot the number) so why in the world would you want to install bronze valve guides ?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cameron Whitaker on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 06:42 pm:

Dave,

I'm just going over the top!

Plus, I'm going to stick with the stock style T valves.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 06:51 pm:

Cameron, there's a reason billions of cast iron valve guides have been made....... :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Wednesday, August 29, 2012 - 10:41 pm:

actually bronze valve guides wear out faster that cast iron ones :-) cast iron has so much graphite that it makes a good wearing surface.

just as people have said, if your seats arent receded to much have the seats ground, and the valves ground, then do a finish lap.


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