Help- maybe slipping clutch?

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Help- maybe slipping clutch?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 10:19 am:

Hello T'ers, I am having an issue with my 1924 Touring. I am in need of advice about this issue: The car picks up speed in low gear and when I come off the pedal to engage high gear, one of three things will happen:

a. nothing, it hums along at the same speed, and after 30-40 feet it'll slowly begin to speed up.
b. it shudders and bucks but slowly fights into high.
c. it'll pick up high sometimes right away.

It depends on how long I have been driving, just starting out on a drive it'll be very slow and sluggish, once I have driven a few minutes it picks up high a tad quicker.

What do you think? Mechanically, I haven't done anything with the trans yet. Any suggestions?

Thanks a million! Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 10:31 am:

James Chochole:

Most T engines will do that until they warm up.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 10:34 am:

How is the parking brake lever positioned? Does it creep back when you put on the brake with the transmission in high? Try pushing the parking brake forward as you let out the clutch to high. If that fixes your problem, you need to shorten the brake rods just enough that the lever stays all the way forward when the brake is off. If that doesn't fix the problem, next step is to adjust for the free neutral. The rod between the low and the clutch might need to be shortened slightly. See diagran attached.

The last thing to check if all else fails is the 3 screws inside the transmission. It is VERY important to stuff rags all around the area so that no cotter pin or anything else falls into the transmission when you have the cover off. Remove the ignition key as well so it won't accidentally fall in. Turn each screw in one half turn and then try the clutch again. Be sure to replace the cotter pins after you do this.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 10:42 am:

I'll check the pedal play and creep today and see if that is my issue. Thanks for the advice- I don't know what I'd do without you fellers!

Thanks again!!!
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 10:50 am:

James, you did'nt say if you let up on the throttle while shifting. I'm not saying that you do this, but many new T drivers tend to over rev their engine and hold in low to long. A T is very forgiving but will respond much better if you shift as soon as the wheels get turning good and if you let up on the throttle as you would a stick shift when goin from low to high. Have fun , KB


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 11:22 am:

KB,
You made a good point, and maybe I do- what do you mean by turning good...how quickly do you go into high? I try and let up the throttle a bit to help ease in...but not always. I'll work on that as well.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 01:43 pm:

James, If I'm on level ground, I go to high as soon as I'm rolling good maybe 30 feet. Thats with not much throttle either. A T has good low end torque. I've watched people rev their engines so high when taking off that I clinch my teeth expecting a rod to let go. Of course I'm one of the 35mph drivers too so a lot of folks won't agree. My 24 is pretty much stock but for aluminum pistons and timing gear. I did timesaver the bearings, that was about 30k ago and still goin strong. KB


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 02:06 pm:

Agree with the above.
Make sure that when in high, with the floorboards in place, the bolt comes off the cam. Sometimes the floorboards prevent the lever from going all the way forward and what seems good with them off isn't working with them installed.
Back off the throttle when going into high. I cut the throttle when I come off low for a few seconds to let the engine slow, then release the pedal completely. I then accelerate. If your engine is going faster than your gearing, it may slip. If it doesn't grab quickly,and the bolt is off the cam, try tightening the 3 clutch fingers half a turn.
Good Luck
Noel


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 02:09 pm:

Gotcha, I checked the lever and I clear the cam when I push the hand forward and it doesn't creep back. I opened the trans cover and turned two of the three clutch screws down, my 3rd was already way down, which didn't make sense. Anyway, I noticed less play right away when I did that with the pedal. The pedal doesn't have as much slop when pushing into low...next a test drive this afternoon and we'll see what happens.

Thanks for all your support & advice,
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 06:45 pm:

I now have a low and a high gear- the clutch fingers needed some turning. Thanks to everyone! I gave her a good oil change again for good measure- makes me feel good to do that.

Appreciatively,
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Monday, September 03, 2012 - 09:44 pm:

James, were there cotter keys in those finger adjustments? If not, they can loosen and cause the problem. they all need to be turned down the same amount.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Chochole on Tuesday, September 04, 2012 - 09:21 pm:

Yes, all had cotter keys but one of the three was way turned down inexplicably. The other two were the same depth.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, September 04, 2012 - 09:38 pm:

You need to measure the distance between the face of the driving (the recess where the rivets are) plate and the clutch side of the finger with the clutch engaged, should be about 7/8 to 15/16. That will set your base for future adjustments. Don't go by this one looks like it's a little further into the finger. If the clutch still slips turn "ALL" the screws in 1/2 a turn at a time then check it.
Oh, start out with all the cotter pins installed the same way, If you need to adjust for more pressure, as you do each screw install the cotter pin the opposite way. Cotter pins are relatively inexpensive so install fresh ones each time.


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration