Metal in the Oil Pan Inspection cover : Can you identify these pieces?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Metal in the Oil Pan Inspection cover : Can you identify these pieces?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 04:00 pm:

Pulled the inspection pan and found these goodies. Some is babbit, maybe from my starter end piece which is not good at all, one looks like a tooth . Ring gear? Old Bendix gear ? any educated guesses ? The piece with the slot is around 1/4 inch wide.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 04:44 pm:

The bit with the slot is one of the 4 mounting tabs from the back flange that is on the back end of your bendix gear. The rest looks like babbitt from the shoulders of either your rod or main bearings.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kerry van Ekeren (Australia) on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 05:05 pm:

I second that, babbitt from a big end, time for a rebuild.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 05:29 pm:

From the wear, the 3 pieces in a row are rod thrust flanges.

The two blobs, hard telling, but probably from the rod also, in any case, it did not stick to the side of the rod. If it stuck to the tinning, it would have ground its self up.

The piece in the middle of the three, is the inside out, and that piece was never stuck to anything.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 07:35 pm:

I'm tearing into it now : I'm first on the 3rd main: Had a hell of a time getting out one cotter pin, now , despite all my "specialty" Ford Model T wrenches I have accumulated at the flea market, I can't find anything that is 3/4 that will work on the 3rd main. I will search here or maybe I will have to go buy an offset 3/4 inch wrench. I still think some of that babbit is from the starter nose piece...we will see.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 09:09 pm:

You need a 1/2 inch 8 pt socket, a 3/4 socket, a 3/4 open end and a 3/4 box end, a short extension and a 1/2 inch ratchet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 09:10 pm:

You might need a 1/2" breaker bar too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Wednesday, September 05, 2012 - 11:00 pm:

"You need a 1/2 inch 8 pt socket"

That should be a 9/16" 8-point socket.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Thursday, September 06, 2012 - 02:07 am:

Herm... you are correct ... from the #2 connecting rod cap. I believe I can just pull the head and remove the piston and replace the rod with the proper size, standard , .10 over or what ever I find it needs , then fit it using shims and plastigauge ...providing I don't find anything else . Sure was running good , just a small knock, which I think may have been the side play of the #2 rod. Any comments or help? thanks !

picture to follow ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Thursday, September 06, 2012 - 02:07 am:

Herm... you are correct ... from the #2 connecting rod cap. I believe I can just pull the head and remove the piston and replace the rod with the proper size, standard , .10 over or what ever I find it needs , then fit it using shims and plastigauge ...providing I don't find anything else . Sure was running good , just a small knock, which I think may have been the side play of the #2 rod. Any comments or help? thanks !

picture to follow ...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Thursday, September 06, 2012 - 02:13 am:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Thursday, September 06, 2012 - 12:59 pm:

Dan, by the looks of that rod, it would be a good idea to look at the other three.

You can see the piece of flange that is left on the rod, it is also not stuck to the rod, and it was like that, the day it was poured.

You can also see excess side clearance, while that could be that the width was cut smaller then, 1.500 standard. I think from the deep wear in the broken pieces, the rods were binding from being out of alignment!

So if the other rods don't look like the babbitt has issues, they should be checked for Alignment.

The first picture shows what babbitt looks like when not stuck!

The second picture shows what it should look like, as it is stuck!

You can look at any babbitt job, and see if it could be used!


Herm.





Other pictures of what bad babbitt pours look like. This is also lead Babbitt.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Thursday, September 06, 2012 - 01:18 pm:

Mike,

Thanks for the correction. 9/16 is right.

Ted


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Thursday, September 06, 2012 - 03:44 pm:

Herm, and all, thanks so much for the help. I posted another pick in a new thread of another piece of metal, but it will stick to a magnet so I don't think its babbit . Please have a look at it here :

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/310150.html?1346960466

I am currently looking at clearance on my 3rd main: finally got the cap off....Dan


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