Depot Hack Rear Fenders

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Depot Hack Rear Fenders
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ronald E. Ray on Monday, September 10, 2012 - 02:42 pm:

I have a depot hack body from Lang's and am trying to install reproduction fenders. The mounting hole in the fender is not in the correct position to mount the fender. How are these fenders mounted? Do you have to make your own mounts?Depot Hack


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Monday, September 10, 2012 - 08:57 pm:

Ronald, because the depot hacks were made by any number of manufacturers and some made at home, there is no standard fitment which would cover all applications. My Rootlieb ones came with no mounting brackets or holes in the inner skirts. I fitted them where it best suited the body I had built.

One annoying thing which was not explained was they were made 1/2" narrower than standard and so the NOS mounting brackets I had had to be cut and shut to suit.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Monday, September 10, 2012 - 10:11 pm:

Ronald,

Since your repro fenders have 'holes'...I assume that is the inner skirt 'hole' and NOT the drill holes for the standard fender inner saddle brackets? Most repro fenders do not include the saddles, nor include holes for them which is actually a BENEFIT for a Hack.

The original Mifflinburg's had a rear fender bracket of a style that Ford eventually went to in the '26/'27 standard car version...a piece of heavy strap steel. This is an original 'Miff' arrangement courtesy of Fred Dimmock when I was trying to figure out how to do my Hack...



Now...what to try and do for you....

Let's say the 'hole' you mention is in the inner skirt. I'd mount the forward lip to the running board with the two bolts and then hold up the fender so that the top/top of the fender height is exactly 20" above the recessed part of the running board and then sight through the hole for what you see. From that you can decide to do so you don't just have a 'hole'.

If you see the sill close by, a piece of 1/4" thick strap by maybe 1-1/4 wide like the 'Mifflinberg' bent just so and then drill the fender for the mounting holes. All done and done clean.

If you see just your Hack paneling, kind of stuck, but...the '27 Roadster pick-up style 'iron' is the best solution. No picture here to offer, but I'm sure someone has one.

If you see one of the body ribs then you can do what I did. (Mine already had riveted saddles since the 2 Hack fenders had been remanufactured from 4 old regular fenders) The arrangement was able to launch a piece of 1/2" Stainless all-thread through one of the ribs and then just use 1/2" stainless nuts to tie everything up at the body and then at the saddles.




Notice in my picture I did something else. Call me Obsessive Compulsive but nothing drives me nuts more than following a T where the rear fenders look like a bird flapping its wings as it goes before me. I know, part of the T beauty, right?

After my fenders were mounted at the all-thread...I then took some scrap 3/16 x 3/4 strap steel and made an 'L' bracket from the sill to the skirt. The tail 'lip' of the fender is now rock solid...no wiggle, no vibration...it worked, it's a Hack :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ronald E. Ray on Monday, September 10, 2012 - 10:26 pm:

Thanks! This is some great information. It looks like we have to make supports. My Hack body looks like George's. The hole on my fender is in the inner skirt but it is an elongated hole about 2" long and about 8" above the rear tip. I think I will make a support that will utilize that hole. I may need the truck support for the top. Thanks again.
Ron


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ray Syverson on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 06:02 pm:

Ronald, here is a drawing of a depot hack fender iron that might work for your situation. When we were making depot hack bodies we used to include this drawing in with the assembly instructions. Not sure if these dimensions work for what you have, but this basic design should work for your body. fender iron


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 06:31 pm:

There's no dimension for how TALL that's supposed to be...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ray Syverson on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 07:06 pm:

The height dimension on the drawing may be different for different bodies and different fenders, so I did not include it. Probably should have blanked out all the dimensions. Sorry, but I didn't want guys making some up assuming the dimensions were good for what they have.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 07:13 pm:

Ronald, also from my experience, if the fenders look like they may not have enough clearance above the wheel, they probably haven't. With a full load in the back of a hack, the rear sits down quite low.

Just for your consideration.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 09:04 pm:

Photo from Mifflinburg catalog, 1925, showing their version of rear fenders for the hack body.

The brackets would mount under the body direct to the wood sill.



Hack fender mounted to underside of body.


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