Bad Connecting rod removed : Pics and comments

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Bad Connecting rod removed : Pics and comments
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 01:02 am:

First, thanks to Herm and all for the comments and support.
I feel very lucky and I am glad I have some decent Engine skills ( thanks for that Dad ! ) .
I made the decision to tear into the pan when I heard a small knock that wasn't there before I changed oil and showed up 100 miles or so after I did. Before anyone jumps on the "Oil controversy" bandwagon, this problem was there long before I bought the car , and maybe it was a good thing I went with a lighter oil as the noise was then more noticeable.
What I found , for those who didn't see the prior posts, was a few bits of Bendix from a known prior issue , and a lot of tiny babbit pieces .

Long story short , by deciding to dig in early, I saved ( at least so far ) my engine and crank from a very nasty self destruction.

The babbit on #2 connecting rod & cap was badly cast from the get go and was breaking down little by little . All the other rods , and bearings 1, 2 & 3 look great and plastigauge out very nice . Hope I don't have to teat it down for some time .

Chaffin's has my parts on the way so hopefully by next week it will be running again .


First question: all 3 good caps ( as in picture 1 ) have a vague oil groove that were put in , but not deep at all, and no, these are not worn out . why would anyone put slingers in and then barely scratch a groove in the caps ?




#2 pic: top or rod journal, crack and small edge piece missing


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 01:03 am:




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 01:05 am:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 06:54 am:

Dan, I'm sure you already know the answer to your question, and that is that the assembler really didn't know what they were doing. The "X" is too shallow to be effective (fortunately). I say "fortunately" as the oil groove, if present, should never go to the edge of the bearing like these scratches do.

Perhaps it's the lighting, but the "good" bearing appears like it's been run hot. Given that the one bearing failed, I wouldn't be in a hurry to use the other 3. Perhaps a good set of 4 new/repoured rods might be in order?

You've saved yourself engine damage by inspecting for the source of the knock...why risk having to go through this again with another marginal rod failing in the future?

BTW, Looking at the head, it appears that the valves are recessed from many valve jobs. All in all it looks like this engine has been kept running for years by it's previous owners without an actual complete overhaul.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 12:11 pm:

Dan, it looks like the rod you have shown, is the early heavy rod, may be its the close up picture, but that is what it looks like, so at any rate, make sure all the rods are the same style, and weight


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 12:53 pm:

It looks to me like a lighter weight rod in the photo. But checking that the rods are all alike is a very good suggestion. Three of the dozen engines I have taken apart to rework for myself have had a mix of rods. I don't know if it was really that common or is simply my luck that one fourth of them have been that way. I can't imagine how much they would shake like that. I built a scale years ago and balance my rods.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eubanks, Powell, TN on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 05:48 pm:

I would sure blow out the oil supply tube........


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Knoll on Tuesday, September 11, 2012 - 11:08 pm:

TWO QUESTIONS:

Is there a way to blow out the oil supply tube without ripping further into the engine ?

If one were to carry the X in the cap out to the sides at a depth of 1/16 inch, what would the consequences be ?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 06:11 am:

Dan, I found a blocked oil line on the last car I purchased and put bands in.

With the hog's head off, I found that I was able to fish a stripped copper wire (do not recall the gage now) down into the funnel and withdraw it and clean it and insert it again (and again, and again), until I could hear it up against the timeing gear. A couple of shots of brake cleaner into the tube, and oil was flowing again. This is an old, very worn engine, but runs marvelously now that oil is flowing in more than just the outside oil line (thank goodness for the outside line).

An easy check is to pull one of the 3 front inspection plate bolts out and start the engine. Oil should pour out of the open hole. This tells you that good oil flow is coming from the interior oil line.

I always advise folks who buy or are contemplating buying a T to do this. Of course, I didn't take my own advice on this car and wondered why I was taking up #1 rod every 200 miles. After a couple of months of infrequent driving, I finally changed the old rotting cotton bands and discovered the funnel was an oil reservoir and not a conduit any more. DUH!

You can also access the oil line by pulling off the timing cover and blowing or plunging the line from the front of the car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money - Braidwood, IL on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 09:54 am:

I've heard some use a speedometer cable (the inside part) and thread it in the tube. Chuck the outer end in a drill and run slowly. Never had to do it myself yet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, September 12, 2012 - 11:58 am:

If one were to carry the X in the cap out to the sides at a depth of 1/16 inch, what would the consequences be ? "End Quote"


Dan, if the oil groves go clear to the Radius, or the out side of the rod, the majority of the oil will will run out, rather then being trapped, and always putting a fresh oil wipe on the total length of the rod journal.





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