Here is my latest. I already have a bigger lathe, a 13 x 36 Jet. I also have a Micro lathe, a Unimat that is handy for lots of things but wanted a slightly larger one than the Unimat and smaller than the Jet so here is what I got. Spent a day making a mounting plate and getting it set up. It is an 8 1/2 inch swing, 16 inch between centers. Electronic variable speed and has both power carriage feed and cross feed. I couldn't find any others that had power cross feed. I like it so far, haven't used it much but it's pretty nice for the money.
I think it will be handy for lots of things besides carburetors and like my friend?? Bob says, "It will sell good at your estate sale."
If I can find time I'll take some pictures and post them of my babbitt equipment, boring bar, reamer set, etc. You guys should do the same, especially if you have tools especially related to T's.
Yeah that's cool but i can carry this where ever it's needed! LOL. Tubing flare tool. 6 sizes from 1/4 to 1/2". Very old & very cool. Stumps every body I show it to.
Model T Ford Allen Electric dynamic generator tester.
Ron the Coilman
Here is my latest toy. I picked this up several weeks ago. It's a Pullmax P7 Universal Sheet Metal Forming machine. Basically, it's a power hammer. There is an upper and lower die which contains the shape you want to form. The lower die is fixed and the upper die moves up and down and forms the shape into the metal. With this machine you can form just about any shape - beads, offsets, louvers, domes, flanges, etc. With a shrinking die you can shrink to form high crowns. It can also sheer up to 1/4" thick.
It's about 10 feet long, 6 feet high and weighs in at about 4500 lbs. It's mostly 1" thick plate. I've spent the past 3 weeks cleaning it up and repainting it. Swapped out the 550 vac 3-phase motor with a 6 hp 220 vac single phase motor. Waiting on a new pulley, then just have to finish wiring it up. Tomorrow I hope to start making a set of dies for the beads on the 14-25 Roadster and Touring doors so I can start fabricating some new doors. Should be fun to play with!
Dave S.
Here's my newest "cool tool", the KRW engine stand.
I'm still looking for the "official" Model T engine adapter for it, but in the meantime I'm using the one available from Lang's and others which works fine. The stand is a delight to use, especially when compared with the Harbor Freight one that I've been using for several years.
Stan ... surely, those are model lathes, right? I'd have all kinds of crap .. bits of wood, metal, sawdust, etc ... stuck to the walls! LOL
David .. wholly behemoth, Batman! .... I hope you have a reinforced floor ... and it came with earplugs!
This is going to be a good topic to drool over!!
I have exactly what you need!! I can send a pic if ya need!
Well, I guess I should clear myself up. The Model T bracket for your engine stand. I have the perfect thing for you. I'll send ya a pic. Next time u go to my work shop, 15 miles away, I'll take a pic of it. You'll love it!
I have these:
I want one of every one of those!!!!
Dennis, carburetors are pretty small. I just finished making a needle and seat adapter for a U & J. Largest dimension: .375 in. Length: .750, Position hole: .233 Fuel hole: .060 So I guess it's a model lathe.
Here is my bigger one:
I've had this one for about 20 years or a little more, I'd like one just slightly bigger. Should sell this one and buy a bigger one I guess. There was a huge one on Craigslist awhile back for almost free but I don't have any place to put it or any use for it. IIRC it was a 20 inch swing with a 16 foot bed. It was $1000 or best offer.
Unca' Stan -- That work area looks entirely too clean to be a place where anyone works on Model T parts.
Empty space...
Mike, it took me two days to get enough stuff moved off those cabinets to put the lathe on. You wouldn't want to see the rest of my shop. It used to be a two car garage. Now it's just tools, T parts and junk.
Everybody should have at least one machine tool big enough to stand on:
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My favorite tool is a 2 1/2 ton air bumper jack made by Norco. I didn't know they made them so light until I found this one. I had tested prototypes of 10 ton air jacks for big trucks when I worked for OTC but they would have been way to big for a small shop. I like the one I've got because it's fast, safe and allows me a lot of height. I did end up purchasing some large jack stands to go with it but they were worth it. I'd attach a picture but it's late and I have no desire to run out to the shop. You'll have to take my word for it.
Dave S.
How are you coming on your Pullmax tooling? I built my own 'mini-pullmax' and one of the first things I did was make the tooling to replace the bottom of one of my doors on my '16. The final job came out really nice.
Ron Dupree
My wife just walked in and looked over my shoulder at this thread. She says I should post photos of her scrapbooking tools.
After cogitating on that I can see she is right. I get no grief on a tool purchase whenever she also has some new scrapping do-dad!
TH
This stuff came from the Doozy garage sale this weekend... Dumore is FOR SALE with 100 new wheels! troop
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Stan whose shop were those pictures taken in? Could not possibly be yours!
Is that the pot calling the kettle black???? Don't forget, John P, I have pictures of your shop that I could post, too. =)
I just cleaned up the lathe room so I could set up the new lathe, you notice there are no pics of the mill or the carb bench area. I'm still working on those - probably always will be. I'm planning on moving the valve machine and boring bar to the bench on the other side of the wall from the lathe. Trying to find room for all the stuff that was on there.
I spent all day today cleaning what used to be the museum, throwing stuff away and moving stuff around, trying to make room for all the stuff I bought at the auction and got from Bob Bowlin's estate in Great Falls last week. I have a big pile to put on ebay, take to a swap meet or throw in the dump. Still don't have room for all the new stuff.
I'm going to move the powder coating cabinet, too, I ordered a new one and want it on an outside wall and want to put the little mill where the powder coating cab is now. Too much stuff. Need more shop, less junk.
Ron,
Made some progress on things last week. Got the Pullmax all put back together and wired up. Still have no place to plug it in. Hopefully will get a line run into the garage this week.
Got the majority of the work on the first die set done. This is the die which will put in the bead which runs around the outside edge of the door. Turns out this same die can also be used on pretty much every open car body and door panel from 1913 - 1925.
Here is a mock-up of the pieces showing the finish side. I need to weld the fence to the female die, then the dies get welded to the posts.
Here's what the faces of the dies look like. The curved areas are for lead-in, so the metal makes a smooth transition from flat to the bead.
Here's how it fits on the panel.
If I can get some sheet metal I'm going to try and make a 1913 Roadster/Touring door panel. These are simpler than the later ones. I need to make two more dies to do the later doors, one for the recess where the latch mounts, and one for the recess where the hinge mounts. Those are much more complicated dies.
After making these dies, a Bridgeport moved WAY up on my wish list. I used a boring bar in the lathe to cut the female curve. The rest was done by hand with a hacksaw, grinder and files.
Dave S.
As I recall, I used two sets of dies. One to roll the edge over, then a second set of dies (like yours) to put the relief in. As you work with your Pullmax, you will probably find that the dies don't need to be as thick as yours are. I use 1/2 inch cold rolled steel for most of mine. This reduces the need for so much rounding on the edges.
Ron Dupree
Hi Ron,
There is another set of dies I still have to make. After shaping the panel on the English Wheel I'll use a thinning die to thin a line where the bend will be. The upper thinning die has a V shape with a rounded point while the bottom die is flat. This creates a week spot where the metal will bend. Once the line is thinned, the edge is bent over and any stretching/shrinking is done to deal with the curve of the panel. The bead die is then run around the edge of the panel to put in the detail.
I took a 3 day course with Fay Butler this summer and made a 23-25 Roadster quarter panel. He has since been mentoring me on my metal shaping. He recommends the dies be between 3/4" and 1" wide with a minimum thickness of 5/16". These dies are made of 3/4" square Cold Roll 1018. I could have used something thinner, but I bought a length of 3/4 square to use for the die posts and just used that. The wider the die the better it tracks. I went with the 3/4" width because but the rounded corners are kind of sharp and the narrower die follows the curve better.
The thinning dies will be made of S7 tool steel, then hardened. I also need to make a set of sheering dies. They will also be hardened S7. I also have to make an adapter piece. This machine uses 7/8" square die posts (they are actually metric - slightly smaller than 7/8). To use that I would have to machine each die post from 1" square, and since I don't have a mill at this time that creates a problem. The adapter allows me to use 3/4" posts on these smaller dies, reducing the machining required. Removing the adapter allows me to use the larger posts on the bigger dies.
So I still have a bit of die work to do. Fortunately these dies are used everywhere on the Model T, so the time invested now is worth it.
Dave S.
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