My 23 TT chose now to crap out her starter switch....I have on on the way but dosent look like its going to make it in time for the vintage truck show strating tommarow.
Sence hand cranking is now an option for me I need to faberacte a push button starter switch ... I was thining of useing a 70's solnoide. If I remember right they had a two wire set up. The left side went to the battery and the right would go to one side of my toggle push button switch and the other side back to the battery to engage the starterwhen pushed. Does this sound right?
http://www.wiringdiagrams21.com/2009/04/27/1977-datsun-280z-starting-system-schematic-diagram
Sure but use an early 70's Ford solenoid. If this is very short time even a 12v one should work for a weekend unless the car is a hard stater.
Sure but use an early 70's Ford solenoid. If this is very short time even a 12v one should work for a weekend unless the car is a hard stater.
Now that I’m not using my cell phone,,, I cant text to save my life. What I was trying to say was I want to use a 1970’s Ford solenoid, The type that was mounted to the fender well. I think they had a two wire system. I think one wire went to the battery and the other went to the switch to engage the solenoid. If I used a simple push button toggle switch would I hook into the one side of the solenoid and then to the toggle then back to the battery to complete the circuit to engage the solenoid.
Big posts from starter to battery. Small posts from battery to button. Button from solenoid to ground. Similar to Datsun above.
Unless totally trashed, take the T starter switch apart and clean the contacts.
Neil
If it looks like this, S terminal (post) goes to start button (switch). Ignore I terminal.
There is 70 Tractr Supply stores in New York State. Any near you? They have a switch (0236643).
http://tsc.tractorsupply.com/search?p=Q&srid=S6-USCDR01&lbc=tractorsupply&ts=cus tom&w=*&uid=41302100&stateid=s6C16C26C2v2nKw1hk&method=and&isort=globalpop&view=grid&s rt=32
There is 70 Tractor Supply stores in New York State. Any near you? They have a switch (0236643).
http://tsc.tractorsupply.com/search?p=Q&srid=S6-USCDR01&lbc=tractorsupply&ts=cus tom&w=*&uid=41302100&stateid=s6C16C26C2v2nKw1hk&method=and&isort=globalpop&view=grid&s rt=32
If you are 6 volts get one from a 49-50 ford truck. Has a push button on it if you ever need it. NAPA has them. 70 will 12 volt. Dan
Will, Rob the parts off that nice touring in profile just remember to replace it.
I typed up a reply to this early this morning Will, just to see it disappear into the voids of Hades. Might as well try again. A three terminal solenoid is grounded thru the case, so mount it directly to the frame. Maybe scrape off some paint so that it will make a good connection. All you need to run is a wire from your starter button to the small terminal. Obviously, the large terminals are connected to your battery and starter. A four terminal solenoid needs a ground wire run to one of the small terminals and your start button goes to the other small terminal.
Garnet
The solenoid will have to match your batter voltage--6v or 12v.
Ops!
Garnet can find his pictures faster than I can.
... and don't buy any solenoids from crappy Princess Auto if you're a Canuck. They tend to seize up when operated and you'll have to run quick to disconnect the starter wire from the solenoid or pull a cable off the battery before you damage something. Go to a dealer like Will mentioned or buy NOS from a swap meet. I had some vintage ones bought at an auction that were brand new but not in the box so I don't know what they were from ... American something-or-other. Also, that picture I posted above belongs to someone else but I don't recall who - thanks whomever you are!
Garnet
Will -- i just went thru this problem --
Tractor supply has a solenoid that will solve your problem --
SKU # 02336677 -- it is 6 volt for early ford tractors --
the " small " terminal goes to a ground button --
also the small white button on the bottom will activate the solenoid
my ph # cell 315-436-7096 ( manlius ny )
http://www.tractorsupply.com/solenoid-switch-ford-4-cylinder-gas-engines-0236677
Any decent tractor supply house ought to have direct start starter buttons.
http://www.fordtractorpart.com/starter-switch-9n11450a-2672-prd1.html
Thanks for everyones help. The truck is up and running and ready for the show tommarow
Now that you've got that problem solved I can say there must be a few thousand guys in this country that are dead wrong on the solinoid that is mounted on the starter to kick the gear in.
The two little terminals are: One comes from the starter/ignition switch to put electricity into the solinoid to activate it. It kicks the gear in and connects the battery cable to the starter motor to run the starter and turn the engine over.
The other small terminal puts out electricity to go to the coil so the coil gets a full 12 volts instead of the reduced voltage it would otherwise get after going through the coil resister. this is while starting only.
You never want to ground either one of those terminals.
The '37 to '50 Ford (& '51 truck)car solinoid is a relay, it is usually refered to as a solinoid but it is a relay.
It is activated by a push button grounding switch.
The solinoids (relays) from '51 cars and '52 & up trucks have two small terminals. They must have electricity going to one to activate.
The starter button has two posts, one coming from a source of electricity and the other going to the soinoid.
The soinoids were changed because in '51 the cars started using automatic transmissions with a neutral switch. The electrictity went from ign. switch through the neutral swith & on.
They will all work but the '37-50 (and tractor)one is the simple one as you just ground it to activate.
I put a solinoid on my pickup from the onset.Used a Ford truck,mid 70s type.Works great.Should allow the original foot switch to last for ever.
If you do it like Garnet's picture and Ken's second picture you will save a lot of starter stomping and increase the life of the starter switch by dozens of times.
Almost as good as switching to 12 volts! Ha!
In fact a lot of starting problems that are "cured" by using 12 volts just needed a better starter switch in the first place. Or a relay solinoid.
the original foot switch is SIMPLE. why not just rebuild it??? just some copper studs and some straps of copper? seems like it would be pretty easy.