No buzz

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: No buzz
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Waller on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 01:16 pm:

My '26 Touring has been converted to 12 volt. Had to replace the switch as it had to be "wiggled" for the past couple years to get buzz. Replaced it as old one seemed to make no contact this summer at all. Even with "wiggle". Now still no buzz. Cleaned the timer (roller type). Checked many, many connections. And further ideas? Could the roller be stuck and not making contact? How would I know if so?

Almost time to put the T away for the winter here in MN. Don't want to put it away without running.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Doolittle on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 01:31 pm:

If it were my car, I'd:
1. remove the spark plugs
2. disconnect the wire from the mag post, thereby eliminating any chance of DC power reaching the magneto.
3. connect a jumper wire directly from the 12v battery to the positive post on the coil box.
4. Rotate the hand crank.

If the coils buzz, then the problem is in the switch. If not, the problem is in the timer, the wiring harness, the battery, faulty ground or the coil box.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 02:36 pm:

Coils need power and ground in order to buzz. Find out which one is missing at the coil box connections. The bottom of the coil gets power from the switch. Is it there? The top gets ground from the timer. Is it there? Find this out first. Then trace the path back to the battery and find out why you don't have one or the other.

A small volt ohm meter will be your friend. Good analog ones are at Radio Shack for under $20.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 03:18 pm:

John you may have answered your own question....... faulty switch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Waller on Friday, September 14, 2012 - 10:59 pm:

I get buzz on coils when checked from 'hot' wire from switch. Have volts at bottom of coil box. Have small volt ohm meter and it is a friend. Still think it is the timer (ground). Cleaned but could it be roller is somehow not making contact in timer????


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Saturday, September 15, 2012 - 05:26 am:

With switch set to battery, run a jumper wire from a good ground to each of the four coil box terminals coming from the timer. If it buzzes, the problem is the timer or timer wiring.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, September 15, 2012 - 06:49 am:

Maybe you need to loosen the timer bolt and take out the cotter pin so you can look inside the timer. It will take less time than it took me to type this.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Saturday, September 15, 2012 - 02:35 pm:

If you got a buzz with the hot wire connected directly to the bottom of the coil box, the timer must be making ground. When you rotate the crank slowly with the spark lever up, there should be two buzzes for every turn of the crank. It takes two complete turns of the crank to cause all 4 coils to buzz. If they buzz in order, the problem is not in the timer. I think your switch or the wiring between the battery and the switch is to blame.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Waller on Sunday, September 16, 2012 - 07:39 am:

Like I said, I did take the timer apart and clean it. It was gummy inside. Have to agree that it is probably a bad connection. Either on the terminal or a ground.

It is frustrating. At least it's in the garage and not stopped on the road. No time this weekend but plan to focus on it this coming week. Need to get it running before corn picking starts. Then really no time to tinker.

Have even wondered if the new switch is faulty. I'm sure all the wires were reconnected exactly like the old switch. I think.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Waller on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 09:48 am:

Figured it out. New switch had same labeling on posts as original. But volt/amp meter showed new switch had to have different posts/wire combination. Go figure. Had original switch somehow been 'adjusted' sometime in the past?? When mag was no longer used? A mystery but got buzz and starts now.


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