Exhaust manifold straightening???

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Exhaust manifold straightening???
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:05 pm:

ive heard of this being done, and seen some them at swap meets. how do you straighten a manifold?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cameron Whitaker on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:09 pm:

It seems to me that the best way to straighten an old manifold is to buy a new one!

I've tried to straighten them, but with no success.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:12 pm:

You need a jig and a lot of heat, you get the area to be straightened red hot and tighten screws on your jig to move the warped area back into alignment. The rear exhaust port generally drops down in use and you need to move it back up. When its straight, then you let it cool slowly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:12 pm:

i know the repros are pretty cost effective, but if it can be done why not especially to have one with the Ford logo in it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:14 pm:

anybody got a picture of this jig?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:14 pm:

Here is a link to the Tulsa clubs web site on this subject.


http://mtfctulsa.com/Tech/manifold.htm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:15 pm:

Matt,

The Tulsa Model T Club has an excellent description and photos at: http://mtfctulsa.com/Tech/manifold.htm

I think there might be a you-tube showing that also -- but I may have remembered that incorrectly.

Good luck.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap 1915 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:20 pm:

WOW. thats pretty cool, ive got everything to do that! thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:22 pm:

I tried it and flunked.Mine broke.
But it has a new life as part of the dual exhaust for my speedster project.
What got me was the wrench thing.if you read the stuff posted above it says clearly to let the wieght of the wrench do the work.Follow that advice and you may have some luck with the process.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jack daron-Brownsburg,In. on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 09:30 pm:

Lots of heat,applied in the right spot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 10:31 pm:

I think $80 applied toward a new one is better yet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garnet on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 10:56 pm:

The new ones aren't much to be proud of either. The ports weren't drilled correctly on the last one I bought 3 years ago and needed to be corrected to fit. That's about as handy as a coil contact that's riveted upside down.

The secret to straightening an old manifold is to let the weight of the wrench alone tighten itself, then reposition it again as needed.

Garnet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 11:28 pm:

I have bought two new exhaust manifolds within the last two months as the originals had shrunk in length, had blown out those two piece gasket things..... :-( .......and the correct sleeve/copper gaskets wouldn't line up no way no how.
They fit perfectly.
Maybe better manufacturing processes now?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew David Maiers on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 11:42 pm:

im currently running a repop, but if i could spare 80 bucks for new one why not, plus original stuff is cool.

this trick is definetly for the pohboys in the community, or the motivated.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Garrison on Monday, September 17, 2012 - 11:45 pm:

I've replace two exhaust manifolds in the last year with new manifolds and the rings worked fine. Everything lined up just fine. However the fellow I got my manifolds from has straightened manifolds with a jig similar to the one listed in the post above with success. I don't believe he's succeeded 100% of the time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bamford, Edmonton AB on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 10:19 am:

I've straightened two manifolds using the Tulsa Technique. Worked great for me. Mack is quite right, just let the wrench do the work (no matter how much you want to "help it along").

The scrap metal yard rough-cut the I-beam. Total cost was about $15 for the steel plus whatever for acetylene and oxygen.








Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jon Crane on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 10:23 am:

Does anybody have any experience with a vaporizer manifold?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, September 18, 2012 - 12:12 pm:

Looks like a hole through the I-beam for heating from below is a good refinement.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Wednesday, September 19, 2012 - 04:29 pm:

Do you need to heat between 2 and 3 or between 3 and 4? I've only done 1, and it came out OK by heating between 3 and 4 but the metal is thinner between 2 and 3. I need to make a jig as I used a flat steel table and clamped the manifold down onto it. I heated and VERY slowly tightened the clamp until all 4 touched the table. I like lining up the glands better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Bamford, Edmonton AB on Wednesday, September 19, 2012 - 07:32 pm:

Noel — although the Before pic shows the first three holes are aligned (and one might thus expect to heat between 3 and 4), I only heated the 2-3 area on both manifolds.

It's rather fun to see the wrench drop by itself as the 2-3 area reddens up.

If you are making a jig I suggest the bottom torch-access hole that Steve mentioned and a scrap metal saddle as shown for the manifold-to-bolt contact point. I lubed the bolt threads to ensure it would turn easily under wrench weight.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Thursday, September 20, 2012 - 10:19 am:

I have done a manifold like the Tulsa group does. Notice the center of the jig is open for the two center ports. I had to go a few thousandths further down in the center, so when the manifold cooled it would be straight.


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