Roadster rear axle oil sealing

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Roadster rear axle oil sealing
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Nagle on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 02:28 am:

I am very new to model T restoration and was wondering if anyone can help me with some info on sealing the oil in the centre of the rear axle.
Before I pulled the axle down there appeared to be a weeping of oil from the riveted joint closest to the center section, I have the modern oil seals for the brake side but can find little information on how to seal the oil in the centre.
The Manuals I have don't go into that much detail.
Thanks Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep NZ on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 02:37 am:

You should get reasonable results from wiping the housing thing clean and oil free with a kerosene soaked rag and wiping the leak with some kind of black sealant or gasket cement. Other people might have better solutions.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 02:46 am:

Making a thin paper gasket is little challenge. That will help hold the thin film of sealant and still compress without opening the casing any causing slop in the gears. At least not any more than 90 years of use would have caused.

This does require opening the axle up however.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Nagle on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 02:52 am:

I think you mean the two housing halfs Brian is that where your suggesting the gasket goes??
Thanks for the reply


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Nagle on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 02:54 am:

Thanks Kep I will try that if all else fails, my though was to try the outer type seals but this may destroy the seal on assembly.
Thanks for reply


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 02:57 am:

Yes, We do that in the diesel shop I work at for rusted casings that there are no easy replacements for. It seems to hold quite well on water and oil seals. There are places you can't use thick gasket materials due to mating part tolerances.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, September 21, 2012 - 06:22 am:

What's the year of your roadster, Tim?
Your description "weeping of oil from the riveted joint closest to the center section" sounds like a common problem on the rare early 1912-14 12 rivet axles:
12 rivet
(picture by Richard Gould)
They tend to work loose in the rivets and seep oil - but can be repaired with some trouble: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/142702.html?1274919801 http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/156013.html?1282320187
Should a more common 1916-25 or 26/27 axle develop leaks where the pipe section is riveted to the center section, then the easiest fix would be to find another axle housing when you're overhauling the axle. Had it been a running car with the thrust washers already changed from crack prone babbitt to trusty brass, then there are some ideas in this thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/201671.html?1301544020


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By kep NZ on Saturday, September 22, 2012 - 12:22 am:

Would you not rather solder or braze the joint on an early axle while overhauling it rather than replacing it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Nagle on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 03:13 am:

Roger I am not sure what year it is,the fuel tank is under the front cowel so I have to presume its from around 1922, the engine no tells me it is 1914, the rear axle is different than the picture you supplied it sounds like the one you described 1916-25, thanks for all the info it sounds like i can drill out the rivets and reseal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 09:51 am:

Fuel tank under the cowl means 26-27. It sounds like your car is a collection of parts from many years, which is a very common thing. Why not post a lot of pictures from different angles, including the leaky part? The experts will soon tell you what you have.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Monday, September 24, 2012 - 12:03 am:

Langs sells the heavy inner felt that goes down into the axle housing. I've had good luck with these over the years. They are a bitch to install, but well worth the effort.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Monday, September 24, 2012 - 04:37 am:

Kep, you are a bad man! I once had to resurrect a pair of 1913 diff housings which had been brazed to stop the oil leaks. There was bronze everywhere around the housing and the rivets. It looked awful. If I could have found the person responsible I would have brazed him.

It is relatively simple to drill out the loose rivets, hot tank the housings and reassemble the components with a non hardening flange sealant and re-rivet it together. Even easier is to use 1/4" bolts. Round the heads off like rivets and bolt the castings to the tubes, with sealant as you go.

Hope this save someone some grief.

Allan from down under.


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