Open valve modifications to slow oil leaking

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Open valve modifications to slow oil leaking
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george schreppler on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 10:23 am:

anyone have info or remember past discussions on this subject? i had a forum discussion on it but can't find it and i'm ready to start my overhaul on a 1911 open motor


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 10:46 am:

George-
Here is an image of an open valve engine with accessory valve covers:



I'm sure there are some out there.

I don't have the discussion about them...

: ^ )
Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 11:50 am:


I am working on a 1909 engine that has this exact problem. It was recently rebuilt but who ever did it must have reamed the guides for the lifters with a rat tail file. In this engine the main problem is way too much clearance on the lifter / guides. I am going to carefully ream the guides for oversize lifters. That should fix the problem.


One other thing is the dam in the rear of the oil pan. Ford eliminated it some time in 1910 perhaps because it kept TOO MUCH oil in the pan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris from Long Beach & Big Bear on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 12:15 pm:

Our 1913 four cylinder Cadillac had open valves. Cadillac simply made a sliding tube with one inside the other. They were a tight friction fit with the outer tube knurled. The two tubes were simply slipped together so the lifter adjustment could be made and then they were pulled apart so they fit tight between the upper and lower contact surfaces. It kept dirt out and oil in. Oh yes they had a simple adjustment and used a roller cam.

The inner tube was the same size as the outer diameter of the valve spring and when the tubes were compressed and slipped up over the spring the spring kept the tube out of the way so the adjustment could be made. The flywheel was marked and had a finger arrow pointing to the marks. The opening and closing positions were plainly marked so the valve timing could be dialed in easily unlike a Ford where Henry hid all important timing information very well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Barrett on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 03:32 pm:

You can cut grooves in the top end of the lifter guides and install O-rings. A simple job in a lathe with the right tooling. We have done this on a couple open valve engines. No more leaks from the lifters.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Sunday, September 23, 2012 - 07:42 pm:

Erik: What size o ring did you use? Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robbie Price on Monday, September 24, 2012 - 11:21 am:

how about this viton metal clad valve stem seal? You just press it over the tappet guide and it seals off the tappet. iIt is good for around 500 deg F and I kinda like the color. it would be an easier change if one got to leaking and you wouldn't have to tear the engine down to replace. i think these measure 5/8 on tappet guide and 7/16 on tappet.
don't beat me up too bad...
valve seals


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian on Monday, September 24, 2012 - 04:18 pm:

Perkins and Cummins diesels use those valve seals, although I have no idea on the ID or valve diameter at this moment.

Clearly not too original but could keep Lizzie on the road another few decades. May be worth the efforts just for that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Barrett on Monday, September 24, 2012 - 10:26 pm:

I went shopping for O-rings at the local Napa parts store. They have a selection arranged by size. I used 7/16" I.D. O-rings with a 1/16" thickness of the ring material. I ground a special bit to reach into the guide in the lathe and cut the groove. The groove is cut very near the top of the guide, leaving just enough over the top of the groove to retain the ring. This assures lubrication on the greatest length of the lifter. It took a few attempts to get the depth just right so the O-ring had the right amount of tension on the lifter. I installed the lifters in the blocks with Loctite sealant. No more leaks. I do lube the valves stems on occasion because they get no lube elsewhere. Hope this helps.
Fordially, Erik


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robbie Price on Tuesday, September 25, 2012 - 10:17 am:

Erik,

What material are your o-rings made of?
Robbie


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erik Barrett on Tuesday, September 25, 2012 - 04:02 pm:

I just use black nitrile rings commonly available at parts stores. You can also use Buna-N rings but they are for heat ranges you won't have around T lifters.
Erik


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