Has anyone out there purchased and installed the repro hubs?
http://www.modeltford.com/item/2815.aspx
I'm thinking this might be prudent when I restore the differential this winter. If they are like the rest of the car that's been restored, it will need to be replaced.
There are a lot of the originals out there. Other than the taper or the keyway what could be worn?
You should check the old ones over before you get new ones.
Herb
Keyways are most likely to be a reason to reject a hub. Threads on a wood wheel hub could also be a problem.
New hubs are pricey.
I'm sure the new ones are lovely, but as Herb says, there are lots of originals. Before spending $140 a crack I'd check with all the usual suspects for some good used ones. You're not in a hurry, so do a little swap meet prowling, and maybe a T auction or two. I was at an auction last spring where they ran short on interested T people and hubs were selling for $1 each.
New hubs are also hard to find. Unless there has been a recent resupply, most places have them on back order.
They seem to be of high quality. Many opt for them rather than travel hundreds of miles to swap meets or buy them off eBay and find they are junk, (bad bearing bores & worn tapers/keyways). If you've got a good stash of used ones, that aren't all that hard to find, then it's probably not a good idea to spend money on new ones. Not everyone has hordes of parts however.
Guys:
I really appreciate all of the feedback and advice. I think the keyways are fine, but when I begin tearing things apart, I'll check them out. I hope to begin the disassembly this weekend.
The threads aren't all that great on one of them and oft times have stripped off. I'm wondering if a re-threader might be the way to go with that one. Anyone tried one of them?
I find it difficult to find used ones without enlarged tapers. Even when using new axles, I often need to use a shim to position the hub correctly.
For boogered-up hubcap threads, try a thread file. It's mighty slow going, but it will do the job eventually. I haven't tried the thread chaser because the outer threads are usually the worst. I figure it would be easy to get the thing started wrong and cross the threads.
Fellows, if the hubs are out of the wheels, I find it easier to turn off a few of the outside threads,on the rear hubs especially, to get the hubcaps started on some good threads. There doesn't really need to be 1/2" of thread to hold a hubcap on.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Allan, the hubcap may not need a 1/2" of threads, but a hub puller might! Just sayin. Dave
So....just in case the hub is worn (chances are it is), should I invest in the axles that are 1/8" longer or would it be better to stick with the standard size?
I had trouble getting new rear hubs, but Langs found me some NOS hubs.
Most of the ten or more used hubs I bought were either cracked or worn in the taper.
I think one of the reasons for using the 1/8" longer axles is if you're using accessory rockymountain brakes on a 09-25 = need more space for twin mounted brake drums.
I've mated used axles and cones with valve grinding paste - makes it easy to see how good the fit inside really is.
Bobs Antique Auto Parts, Rockford,Illinois should have an ample supply of good used hubs.
I bought new for my 15, mine were in pretty poor condition. I was very pleased with them, pricey but good. Since then, with alittle looking and contacts. I have been able to git good used for 5 bucks a piece - I love model T's :-)