I thought Hap might like this for his research.
Craig
Nice dime -
But I can't tell what year it is
Suggest retitling the post to make Hap look at it. "Some Data for Hap", "Making Hap Happy", "Hey Hap!".
Craig,
From your profile, it looks like this is your first posting on the forum or at least the first one with this user name. Welcome aboard! And if you are a long time T owner and driver your inputs will be helpful too many of us And if you are brand new to Ts – this can be a great place to post questions or to share what you are learning (that often helps some of us who don’t like to admit we have a question – I’m also never lost – just exploring…). If your are brand new to Ts – please let folks know so we can point you to some safety tips. The folks back in the Model T days knew most of those issues either first hand or by watching their neighbor learn the lesson first hand. And they didn’t have to worry about the Model T leaking gas in the enclosed garage with the gas fired hot water heater because most of them did not have an attached garage or indoor plumbing.
Thank you also for taking time to post the Beaudett body number (noted by the “B”) for me. When you have time would you please check your runabout’s seat heel panel and let us know if you have a “B” or something else stamped on it? The heel panel is the metal panel that the back of you heel would hit if you were sitting in the seat and moved your foot backwards. Also if you believe the engine serial number is probably original to the car, please compare it to the listing at: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/sernos.htm and let me know the year and month the serial number falls. (That could be the month the engine was actually assembled or it could also be one of the serial numbers that was shipped off to another assembly branch and stamped onto an engine assembled there weeks later.) And if you would also look on the wood at the bottom of your passenger door (assumes USA body – or both doors if a Canadian body). Sometimes on the Beaudett bodies around 1913, they also stamped the body number on the bottom of the doors. I don’t know why they did that – perhaps they took the doors off when painting the body and wanted to make sure to put the door that was built to fit the body back on the body? But at any rate they sometimes stamped a body number on the wood that is exposed on the bottom of the 1913 bodies. I am hoping to one day have enough data points and understanding about them to be able to tell if there is a relationship between the body number and when the body was produced. For the later Beaudett, Wilson, an d Fisher bodies – they have a the year and month the body was manufactured stamped as part of the body number. (For anyone wanting additional information on where to look for body number please see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40322.html ).
Again thank you so much for taking time to photograph the body number and send it my way. Also thank you for putting the dime in the photo. It makes it much easier to judge the size of the letter and numbers. And yes – the posting did make me happy.
Respectfully submitted,
Hap l9l5 cut off
Hap,
Thanks for the info.This is my first T to own,but have driven others before. This car seems mostly original other than it has been sprayed red w/black fenders. It is absolutely original greasy dirty! The casting date is 4-12-13,the dash plate number is 241941,and the radiator is numbered 273481.I plan on a nut and bolt job on this guy. Buy the way it has the proper square cornered turtle deck.
Thanks
Craig
Sorry,forgot the engine # 259712,also no other marks on heel frame
Craig
Craig,
Thank you so much for the information. And if you find any numbers on the bottom of the passenger door, please let me know.
Also, since this is your first T to own, recommend you review some of the safety items. Or as Mark Twain is credited as saying, “It is better to be safe a 1000 times than dead once.”
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/154102.html
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69429.html
replace any babbit thrust washers in the rear axle see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/300575.html but note that if your 1913 still has the original rear axle thrust washers – they should be bronze ref: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm#rax3 which says:
DIFFERENTIAL THRUST BEARING
(2 used)
1909-1915
2528 30 Bronze
1915-1927
2528 30 Babbitt
Don’t forget to check out the local T club near you. They can offer a lot of support and encouragement.
Again, welcome aboard!
Respectfully submitted,
Hap l9l5 cut off
Does your car have a tool box in back of the gas tank? My roadster which is about the same month as yours has one now, but was removed at some point prior to my ownership. It was a heck of a job making it, but worthwhile. My body is a Fisher.
Yes Larry it is still there with a few Walden tools and sockets! Notice the original upholstery. This car is unmolested.It has been painted but was never disassembled.
Mine is just like that, with the original upholstery too. Post some more photos of your car. I would like to see them.
Larry the reason I have not posted pictures of the car is because it is living in my Box trailer! I am building a new multi car barn. The slab is finished , hope to get the building finished this week. I will get photos up soon. Is your car unrestored?
Craig
I don't have a photo of the car all in one piece, but here is one of the way it looks at the moment.
I hope to get some photos up this week.
Here are some random photos. I believe the only main parts that are not correct are the rear end, and the front fenders as they are billed fenders . Oh yea ,and the color! Please feel free to comment as I am all ears!
Thanks,
Craig
Craig -- I have a good pair of '13 non-billed fenders which I would like to trade for ones with bills. Since you're in Texas and I'm in Arkansas, maybe that would be do-able. You can email me at waterwalk99@hotmail.com or call me at 479-790-4229. Thanks, Mike.