Just a note to all that helped with advice and comments... all 4 connecting rods were replaced , valves lapped and clearance set at .015.
I had 3 - .010 over rods from Lang's and one from Chaffin's.
They all weighed in really close .
We made up a jig to check for any twist or bends.... a couple needed a little adjustment , so they were adjusted . One that didn't need adjustment turned out to be the pain in the rear as it must have been bored a little off and required many hours to scrape a little at a time , check with Prussian blue and plastiguage .
It kept hitting on the rear part of the bearing on number 4, so much that I eventually took a small brake cylinder hone and worked it a little with it and some fine "timesaver" and that brought it real close to perfect . I have to admit , My Dad is a real pro at the scraping babbit bearings, and he wasn't bull !@#$% when he said he could get them to 90%. It did however , take 3 days and countless in and out with me on my back on a creeper . The results were well worth it , it starts and runs like a top , no more knocks .....
I think the timesaver would work very well if you had a freshly ground crank with the proper size rods. However , with that said , even with my crank in really good shape , using the fine timesaver is just not course enough . I think a combination of scraping and a final run through with timesaver would work but probably starting with the medium if one has to replace rods on an okay crank that doesn't need to be turned .
Scraping may be a pain but if done slow and correct , you can sure get some great results.