Fitting a Scat crankshaft.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Fitting a Scat crankshaft.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 06:21 am:

Fellows, I had a few moments fitting a Scat shaft inti an open valve motor recently. I had the pan aligned and bolted up and went to rotate the crankshaft to check for any problems. I found two. One magnet retaining bolt scraped lightly on the new inside oil funnel, easily fixed with a large screwdriver to lever it aside. Continued to wind the crank handle and came to a dead halt. Wound it back the other way and same thing.

I thought it might be the overlength bolts provided by the vendors to attatch the bottom plate to the sump. I took the bottom plate off again and re-bolted the retainer in place without the cover. The small end of the crank throw between cylinders 3 and 4 was hitting the centre bolt at the rear of the plate. I wound it out and then the crank would rotate but still scraped on the retainer.

I was not about to tear it all down and attack the crankshaft.I managed to lever the one piece retainer out of the pan by flexing it and rotating it through 90 degrees on the way out. I ground the rear of the retainer down in thickness on a linisher belt. Then I levered the rear edge of the hole in the pan down a trifle. The retainer was slightly curved to match the slight bend in the pan and then re-installed. A feeler gauge indicated a .035" between the shaft and the retainer. With the cover back on and a shortened centre bolt the problem went away.

Has anyone else had the same experience? I posted this to give a heads up for anybody in the future.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Bender Tulsa Oklahoma on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 06:29 am:

Allan

All the Scat cranks will hit. Depends on four dip vs three dip as to we're contact is made, year of motor makes no difference. The fix is as you found, easy to do. No big deal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Bender Tulsa Oklahoma on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 06:33 am:

Allan

Not awake just yet. No need to bend the pan. Grind off the horse shoe a bit is all that needs to be done


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 07:00 am:

With an open valve motor there's another solution to the interference problem - a one piece pan haven't got any horse shoe or bolt there. (but finding one..)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Alan George Long on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 07:13 am:

Yes, one piece pan, front axle spindles and RHD square top transmission cover are on the same list of parts for me!

Alan from Western Australia (thanks Allan B )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Brancaccio - Calgary Alberta on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 03:08 pm:

Allan, what specs Scat crank do you have?
Is it standard T specs, same journal sizes & stroke?

I have one with standard rod journal sizes and stroke but with 1 7/16 mains, the idea being just a little bit stronger but all the other parts will work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Tuesday, October 16, 2012 - 07:01 pm:

You have to trim the horse shoes also with DUNN weights, unless you trim the weights in a lathe before hand, but you may have to rebalance?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 04:33 am:

Chris, the crank is standard T, not drilled for oil.

Allan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Michael Rogers on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 06:28 am:

I just read this and it struck a note. I have installed 2 scat cranks and both knocked when I installed them. I stopped the knocking by tightening the bolt at the front and rear of the inspection pan which probably pulled the horseshoe down enough to miss. My personal engine has a knock that I can't find that only happens at about 1/2 down on the timing lever. I have been inside and checked the new babbitt and all is .0015 rods and mains. The engine runs great and pulls like a homesick mule on hills, I pulled all the hills except the worst ones in the Vermont tour this summer in high. I am wondering if the crank is clearing but hits when the timing is advanced? I have resigned myself to run it till it blows or till it wears out, I just don't like the knock and it is embarrassing for me. Any thoughts or comments are invited.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 02:39 pm:

Roy, With a Tough Technical Problem like that, I would send it to an Experienced Engine Builder, like J and M Machine Co.

Phone is 508-460-0733


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Michael Rogers on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 08:23 pm:

Herm, I would appreciate if you would refrain from posting to anything I post. I don't care for your condescending attitude and my name is posted blatantly at the head of my post and, Roy is not part of it. I don't post to anything you put on here agree with it or not and, I would appreciate you doing the same.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Wednesday, October 17, 2012 - 10:31 pm:

Any thoughts or comments are invited."END QUOTE"

Well, Roy, next time you ask for any thoughts, and Comments that would have Solved your problem, use a P.S. and say every body but Herm.

Happy Knock Hunting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Michael Rogers on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 05:56 am:

"use a P.S. and say every body but Herm." I believe I just did!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Evan Mason on Thursday, October 18, 2012 - 09:00 pm:

When I installed the Scat Crank (standard T size using T rods) in a 3 dip pan I used a 2 piece horse shoe and modified it into a one piece. I cut enough of the center of the rear horse shoe out so that the Scat crank would clear. I mounted the now three pieces of the horse shoe, both front and rear, to the dip cover. I used the piece that I removed from the rear to fill the spaces between the front shoe and the rear shoe( that is now two pieces) by welding them into place. I welded a bolt from that inside of the pan-out in the center hole at the rear of the pan. I ground the head of the bolt down to almost flush. The Scat crank has plenty of room.

Just one way to solve the problem...your mileage may vary.

Evan in Paso


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