I am new to Model T collecting - I always wanted one - I may buy this one -
http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/discus.cgi
Does this price seem reasonable? What concerns should I have when buying a car like this? this owner has had it for 15 years.
Excuse me - this is the address of the page for that 1927 Model T roadster -
http://tallahassee.craigslist.org/cto/3274361949.html
harry@everhart.com
The price is a little high, but not unreasonably so. Whether it's the car for you is a matter of taste. If you don't mind all the Non-T "improvements", fine. If you prefer stock, take a pass or expect to spend some dollars converting it back. If you are inclined to go for it, ask whether it has bronze thrust washers in the rear axle.
Harry -- Since the seller mentions "All Original steel body and running boards...", I'm wondering about the fenders. Since he mentioned the running boards in particular, it makes one wonder why he didn't mention the fenders as well. The only reason I bring this up is that a few years ago, steel fenders were not available for the '26-7 cars, and a lot of guys put fiberglass ones on them at that time. The picture is from 2004 or 05, so it might be worth asking about the fenders while you're asking about thrust washers.
Some folks think that adding a water pump, distributor, and alternator increases the value of the car. Many of us disagree, as Steve alluded. This seller might think that fiberglass fenders add to the value of the car, since they can't rust.
The picture is over seven years old. I wonder what it looks like now? Best to get recent pictures from the owner.
Harry,
Looks like an o.k. deal to me. But, I too would want to know of the fenders are steel or fiberglass. I would want a nice price reduction if they're glass.
Perhaps one of our Model T fellows in Florida could possibly assist you by going with you to inspect the car in person.
We paid $9k for our all steel, well sorted out 27 roadster in 09 (profile pic). Price seems about right for a good solid (improved car) driver. Steel fenders alone would be $1500.
I would agree with all of the above. Note, the steel spoke wheels and hubs are worth over $600.
Why does the car have 12V and distributor? Quite often this "improvement" is made because of a malfunctioning magneto. And also quite often the magneto malfunctions because of too much clearance in the rear main bearing.
Before you buy, you need to ask some questions, and also drive the car and if you are not knowledgeable on Model T's, take someone familiar with them with you to check it out.
I know from experience, that when purchasing a Model T, even if it looks and sounds good, there are hidden problems to be be resolved. Try to find out about the potential problems before you buy it, rather than afterward.
Norm
Norman wire wheels and hubs are closer to 1300-1500.00 in my part of the US
If you're not a purist and just want to have fun it's a fair price. The add-ons just add to the reliability and lower maintenance, Don.
Don, some would argue that you have it backwards. The add-ons add to the maintenance and lower the reliability.
Just stirring.
Allan from down under.
The debate can be endless
Let's check the merits of each of the add-ons..
*12 Volt system; Works but not needed and can be harmful for the bendix if the starter isn't modified. A bit like giving arsenic to an old horse - after checking/fixing all the connections, contacts and cables 6 volts should work as well.
*Rocky mountain brakes: A good add on that increases the chances to stop in time without looking too modern. The transmission brake should be kept for stopping the car in reverse.
*Distributor: It's a way to make the T's ignition system more familiar to the average 50's-60's car mechanic. Not needed for a standard T if you learn how the coil and magneto should be restored and adjusted.
*Water pump; Might be a band aid if you have a bad radiator and isn't up to spending $800 right now (for speedsters with OHV heads a water pump and thermostat is probably always needed)
*High compression head: A good add on that increases power at all rpms while reducing heat and fuel consumption. Just check the play on rods and mains before mounting one, if they're a tad large and just about to start knocking the higher compression will make them knock.
*Alternator: Depending on which one, they can get overheated since the fan used in their original application is on the fan belt pulley, not included when used on a T. An original generator can be restored to reliably supply enough current needed for the T.
The distributor might also be signaling that some $300 worth of coils and box are now missing. It's really easy to delete them on a 26-27 because you're not leaving the dash looking like swiss cheese.
While you're under the hood, check for the correct vibrator horn. I've seen a few cars where they changed to a motor horn to make them sound "correct". It's really easy to mess with the horn while you're installing the water pump since the horn bracket will no longer fit there.
Harry,
As mentioned before, find a Model T member
in Pensacola and go look at the car together
Jim
I want to thank everyone for helping me with this possible purchase. I drove out to see and drive the 1927 Model T Roadster. I did a small writeup on my web page - it includes pictures -
http://everhart.blogspot.com/2012/10/almost-barn-find-1927-ford-model-t.html
It may answer some of the questions that you brought up.
Simply - the body is all steel and all original. This owner has had it for 15 years. He used to tow it on a trailer all over the country and participate in rallies.
The car starts right up and ran smoothly. We took a 10 miles ride - it went fine. I got to drive a Model T for the first time after being a science teacher for 33 years and having Model T's in my lessons plans. After listening to my Dad for 50 years telling me how great Model T's were - I DROVE ONE. Now - I can buy a really neat one if I want.
The owner has a stable of nice toys that he is selling off - he and his wife are up in their 70s and have some health problems that prevent them ever touring again. He has a giant 2007 motor home with 13000 miles on it that he must unload - also a model A - a 56 chevy truck perfect - and a karman ghia with brand new engine. His place is out in the middle of bumfuk Florida nowhere.
I am going to make him an offer on the Model T. I will tell you what comes of it.
Thanks to all.
Harry
I believe that is a 65 chevy truck.
Harry;
That Lloyd Fl. isn't on my map.
Lloyd is just off I-10 a few miles east of Tallahassee.
I don't know where Lloyd is, but I know I have been in out in the middle of Bumf**k a time or two.
I made an offer on the 1927 Model T. The owner politely declined - saying he can hold on to it. He will wait until someone offers his price. If anyone wants to take a run at it - email me at harry@everhart.com - I will give you the guy's email. thanks for all your help.
Harry
Watch the ads in The Vintage Ford, Model T Times, and Hemmings, and keep an eye on ebay and Craig's List. Lots of overpriced cars are advertised, but occasionally a good buy comes along. While you're waiting study up on the T so that when a good prospect comes along you'll know what you're seeing.
There will be another one along soon. The best advice I know for newcomers getting into this hobby, is look into clubs near you. Ask lots of questions. Listen to lots of answers. Don't listen to any one person, or even several people. Figure out what you want, and what you want out of the hobby.
There are many different areas of the hobby. Full restorations. Driving, touring, tinkering. You may prefer newer Ts. Some, like me, prefer earlier cars, but also have a later car or two. Often, people in local clubs know of good deals on cars available locally. That is how I got my coupe. I bought it from a long time friend in a local club. You never know what you may come up with if you get to know the local club.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Check back issues of the national Model T magazines in their classified ads sections, as well as on-line ads as far back as are archived and accessible. The sad fact is that most cars go unsold the first time around, making a lower price offered now more acceptable to the seller, whose wife is still screaming at him to "get rid of that old car or else!". (I never know what "or else" means. Does any husband???) In 1996 when I decided I was finally going to buy a '28-29 Model A Phaeton, I checked the recent prices on-line and in recent national Model A magazines. Expensive, usually in the $20,000+ range! So I went through my back issues of national Model A magazines and on-line websites as far back as two years and called the owners of '28-29 Phaetons to inquire about the cars' status. Most were still unsold and the owners were willing to take a lot less than their two year-old advertised prices. I ended up with a pretty decent 1928 Phaeton for about $3000 less than the price advertised just a year prior. And it was only 120 miles away, unlike some of the other owners I called who lived 2500 miles away = expensive shipping and no chance to inspect before buying. I was happy and the seller was happy. We both got pretty much what we wanted.
Try this tact and you'll be surprised just how "helpful" bitchy wives are in getting cars to change owners.
Marshall
P.S. Even after re-restoring our 1928 Phaeton, I was still into it WAY less than the current advertised prices for similar condition Phaetons at the time. In such cases, time is really on YOUR side as a buyer.
i know this isn't the classifieds, but we have a dandy 1927 roadster for sale. it is a firm $8000, and as nice of original car as you will find. my email is under the classifieds, if anyone wants a lot of pictures and a good honest description. we want it to go to a good home. thanks! tim
RE:
" i know this isn't the classifieds, but we have a dandy 1927 roadster for sale. it is a firm $8000, and as nice of original car as you will find. my email is under the classifieds, if anyone wants a lot of pictures and a good honest description. we want it to go to a good home. thanks! tim "
Tim is a good person to deal with ....
One of my favorite hauls ....
He met me in a CVS Pharmacy and drove this home ......
Jim
Here's a '27 roadster pick up driver in VA that can be fixed up cosmetically later if you wish - looks like a good buy for $5500: http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71246
Yes, turtle decks are still out there too, if you'd like to fancy up the pick up for a sunday drive http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87422
Here's what a 1926-27 Roadster (Runabout) looks like in the original color option of Gunmetal Blue. I painted this car six years ago using a very correct color formula, which was carried over to the 1928 Model A. It's a chameleon-like color, in that it sometimes looks green, sometimes blue, depending upon the amount of sunlight or clouds. As you can see, authentic colors for 1926-27 can be very attractive, too. Keep in mind that the Roadster you are considering buying is painted in a non-authentic color, which will affect its value. It looks like a nice car otherwise, though.
Marshall
thanks Jim ! you took very good care of "Trudy" to get her here for us. happy trails. tim