Hi, y'all.
I have lots of irons in the fire, but one question that I have is what I need to do to be able to reattach the upper windshield shield. I think that is what is there. There are about 7 screws that are threaded into what I believe to be weld nuts, and four screws are rusted solid to them. My thought is to cut them off flush and move the attachments over an inch or so. Can the seal accommodate that?
Please, advise.
Thanks.
Dennis.
If there is nothing around them to burn,heat them red hot,allow to cool, and remove them.
Most of those screws were nickel plated brass. Should be fairly easy to drill them out and re-tap/chase the weld-nuts. The hard part is getting a hand drill square to the drilling on the two next to each A-pillar. I had to use a compact air drill on a Tudor.
There's no seal at the top on Model Ts. That started with the Model As but it's a good addition on a non-point car if your glass size will allow it. (If it's the rubber hinge seal your talking about.)
I tried heat, but the rust won. I may try again, but I am thinking that drilling them out might work. My reason for asking was due to what I saw to be a difficulty reaching some of them.
I was just guessing about the seal. I have a flange with rusted bolts. What goes there? Mine is a 27 Coupe. I got my T in boxes, and some of the stuff I need evades me.
Thanks.
Dennis.
My memory is faded on this because I faced the same problem 42 years ago in 1970, when, at the age of 16, I was attempting to remove the windshield frame from my very rusty '26 coupe. All of the screws were badly rusted and broke the weldnuts loose leaving them to spin inside the sealed box above the windshield. I took a drill and with a 5/8" high speed drill bit, carefully drilled holes through the steel wall inside the car, above the windshield behind where each nut was. I then sprayed "Blaster" on each nut and let it sit overnight. The next day I clamped each nut with needle nose vise grips and attempted to unscrew the screws with a large standard screws driver. A couple came loose, but the rest were rusted fast and I had to use a cold chisel on them to split the nuts. When it came time to install the restored windshield, I used regular nylon lock nuts along with new countersunk slot headed machine screws, holding the new nylocknuts with needle nose vice grips through the holes as I tightened the screws from the outside. The 3/4" holes are still there, but covered by the upholstered panel from "Carter's Cut and Cover", that I installed above the windshield. Jim Patrick
Interesting.
That sounds like it might work if nothing else does.
Thanks.
Dennis.
I was less knowledgeable back then so was unaware the heat could loosen rusted nuts so, if the "Blaster" does not work, you might consider heating the nuts through the holes you drilled. Good luck. Jim Patrick
PS. Heating the nuts through the holes as you or someone else tried to loosen them with a screwdriver would be faster, safer and easier than using a cold chisel to split the nuts. Jim Patrick
Sounds like a plan!