I got the Reckstell back from being hot tanked, nice to be working with clean parts. The inside and some of the parts look like some one in the past dumped blasting media in the housing. The big bearing slides on and off the bronze plate (sorry I don't have the book in front of me right now), the pinion shafts wobble in their holes etc. I am missing the shot of the sliding gear but it looks good. Looks like it was replaced along with the outer axle bearings and drive shaft pinion bearing(new type ). Wont say much about the drive shaft as it's toast, the pinon bearing sleeve slid off. I have the book but there are a lot of things that I have missed reading or are not in it. Like how much slop should the sun gear, the plate that holds the pins in place etc have on the splines where the sliding gear goes in.
http://s1101.photobucket.com/albums/g424/redmodelt/Ruckstell/
Looks better than what I started with. I replaced the sun and planet gears and gear pins and rebushed the 202 housing. Your gears look good to me. Looks like new pins would help. I can't see the planet pin holes in your 202. On mine the ball bearing was a push fit on the bronze if I remember correctly. You could fix extra clearance with Loctite if you are concerned about it.
All in all looks like a pretty decent Ruckstell to me.
I don't like the look of any of your internal splines. The sun gear, notch plate & "other" plate, (can't recall the name), all have very worn spline teeth with tapering faces. The bronze thrust plate splines look good though. The taper suggests that the Ruckstell was shifted roughly, with lots of clashing. I would fear this unit dropping out of gear as the sliding spline shaft slips down those tapered spline tooth faces.
Also, by the looks of the gears, this unit sure chewed on a lot of metal chunks at one time!
I'am with Jerry, the parts are past use, call Glen!
I would replace the pins and both the notch and thrust plates. I'd keep the clutch which appears very good , triple gears, sun gear, large bell housing,diff carrier and bronze thrust plate (if there is not a lot of verical clearance between the inside surface and the circumerence of the steel thrust plate). You can use sleeve retainer on the ball bearing and diff pins for the steel thrust plate with or without knurling. Any scoring of the inside of the bronze thrust plate can be resurfaced although you might have to use a shim on the inner surface of the bell housing to keep the side to side clearance good.
You can reverse the sun and internal ring gears if they show wear on one side. You can either weld or bush the ID of the diff and bell housing if they show too much clearance. You can bush the pin holes in the diff carrier, but I'd use phosphor bronze, not the stuff provided by the vendors.
We are indeed spoiled today. Many just opt for replacement parts if they see any wear. You'd be surprised how worn out the internals can be and the unit functions fine. The key is to keep side to side clearances close and avoid a lot of rock and roll.
Yes I think you are right, the teeth do look bad. Last night after I posted this I found a repaired hole in the Ruckstell housing about the size of a quarter. It was popping out of gear. What ever damage was done happened before my friend got the car so I have no history on it. Even the ring and pinion are bad. I don't know why they even bothered to rebuild it with these parts. Like I said, the sliding gear looks to have been replaced and the teeth on the bronze plate look good but the bearing drops on and has spun.
Glen be the man to call!
Did some checking on the Ruckstell I am working on, more bad news when I pulled the spider gear housing apart the bearings on the axle gears are a mess, very worn. Axles them self's look pretty good. One has about .0015 taper to the outside at the hub end.