Cylinder head dimensions

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Cylinder head dimensions
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Robinson on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 02:19 pm:

Is there any way to check if a standard head ('25) has been milled?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cameron Whitaker on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 02:23 pm:

I believe that from the head surface to the top of one of the bolt holes should be 2 11/16"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Robinson on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 03:37 pm:

My head dimensions bottom to top of bolt holes mike an average of 2.86 so it would appear the head has been milled about .0010". I have had to grind off several of the head bolts due to bottoming and I was wondering. Thanks for the info.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 05:43 pm:

John, sounds like you need to be addressing the depth of the holes in the block. I would suggest running a tap down each and blowing out any crud dislodged. Once the holes are clean, run the bolts in without the head and measure how long they are then.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 08:05 pm:

Before running a tap down the hole, run a quarter inch or so drill down to break up packed in crud. Blow that out, then tap with a bottom or plug tap. Then blow it out again. DO NOT look down the hole while blowing it out. (Don't ask me how I learned this, your leftover soda straw is not a good idea) If I don't want to use the air compressor hose, I use a couple foot long piece of flexible tubing and hold my face away from the bolt hole it is poked down into.
.010 loss of depth should not cause any trouble.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Blancard on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 08:38 pm:

Wouldn't it be better to use a shop-vac to suck the debris out of the bolt holes rather than blowing it all over the engine and possibly into the cylinders? It would be easy to connect the vac to a piece of small diameter tubing to get down in the hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Chaffin on Thursday, October 25, 2012 - 09:08 pm:

Per the Ford factory drawing it is 2 11/16 or 2.6875.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Randy Driscoll on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 12:52 pm:

Mark,
Do you have that spec for the low head? I am guessing it would be 2 1/16".


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 01:04 pm:

If you don't care about authenticity, use studs and nuts and you'll solve the problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Chaffin on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 01:15 pm:

Sorry Randy, I only have the factory drawing for the high head as it was needed when we were working up the machine specs for the new RAJO's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerome Hoffman, Hays KS on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 01:58 pm:

I don't have the spec right in front of me but do a search on my name and the topic as I posted these before.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kerry van Ekeren (Australia) on Saturday, October 27, 2012 - 05:10 pm:

The only specs I have found on the low head is in Langs parts book, at 2". I have several of them and range from the 2" up to 2&3/16"


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