I haven't had good luck with the head gaskets I purchased a few years back. It had white filler that was a substitute for asbestos. What is the best available today?
Antique Auto Ranch sells a really good copper head gasket. 509-535-7789
Copper, with plenty of copper-spray-a-gasket for good sealing-----Paul
Be sure your cylinder head is flat. Many need resurfacing. It doesn't take much warp to loose a head gasket.
I just got off the phone with Antique Auto Ranch and ordered a couple. They'll be sending me a catalogue for future reference. I do appreciate their phone number.
I also like to use copper spray. It seems to seal things better.
I think I checked the head with a straight edge and feeler gages, but it won't hurt to check again.
Thanks, Richard
Here's one I've bought cheap - what kind is it?
Anybody used one like this successfully? Would it work with an aluminum head?
Richard -- You might check your block's top surface as well. Sometimes they're not flat. When I'm rebuilding an engine, I have a few thou milled off to true it up. (And the head as well.)
Will do Mike
Be sure to torque again after you have warmed up the engine. If you use a cast iron head, torque hot. If an aluminum head warm it up and then let it cool before you re torque it. Start in the center and work outward toward the sides and toward the ends alternating back and forth. Then go over it again starting in the center and when you reach 50 ft lbs all the way around drive for a few days and check the torque again. Keep doing this until it stays at 50 ft lbs. Then it should run for years without blowing out.
Norm
Norman - what is your information source to recommend re-torquing a cast iron head "hot"?
I agree Steve, I always torque cold even if it is after a warmup. I guess we all do what works for us but, I like to let the metal expand with heat and contract to cool then torque so, the metal is in a relaxed state.
Note at bottom for re-tighten.
What S.A.E. journal is that taken from Kerry ?
My understanding is, both iron and aluminum heads can do this. When you warm the engine up the first time (and second, maybe third), the various expansions working against each other compress the gasket and work everything around. This results in the torque loosening. As it cools, this situation becomes worse as coolant begins to slip into between the head, the gasket, and the block. This is why you want to torque the head while it is still hot. (I often do it while the engine is still running.) However, aluminum becomes enough softer when it warms up, that it can be compressed as you torque the head while hot. Therefore, there is a risk trade-off that most experts decide is less risky to torque cold. The phenomenon of compressing the aluminum is called "cold flow". It will actually compress slightly at ambient room temperature. Add a couple hundred degrees and it gets a lot worse.
I was actually taught to drain the coolant while still hot to prevent that coolant creep the first time warming it up.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Has anyone had an experience with the head gasket that has a silicone bead around the edges and the bolt holes? I bought two of them; am planning to use one very soon.
Re water getting between the head and gasket, if you use sealer how is it going to get through? If you re-torque a hot expanded head aren't you torquing against the expanded cast iron?
Or is it because the bolts/studs expand more then the head when the engine is hot, that you re-torque when its hot?
Roger K. When I called Snyders or Langs with that question I was told to use the copper head gasket. Part may be the soft aluminum, cast iron for that mater, will imprint with the fire rings. The steel rings are less conforming, I would think. The copper head gaskets can still imprint but the sheathing covering the gasket may give more support out side the fire rings. OP based on Model A heads that had used the composite with steel fire rings.
Terry, I have used two of these http://www.modeltford.com/item/3002SIL.aspx and have a third waiting to be used on my Tudor.
It's a terrific gasket.
I'm with Richard Gould, the head gasket from Antique Auto Ranch is the best
Craig, That's the gasket that I am referring to. I have two or three waiting to be used. Did you torque them like a regular head gasket?
I also use the head gasket that Ford-N=More sells. I have been using them for a long tome including my Montana 500 car. They are the best. Toll Free Number 800-327-1469. WWW.antiqueautoranch.com or info@antiqueautoranch.com. They are some of the best T mechanics in the country and will take time to answer any questions you might want to ask.
Yes Terry. Then torqued again after a few days.
Roger, I too have used the head gasket you have pictured. Its a lot of work to remove since the asbestos comes apart and sticks to the head and block. It has to be scraped off and then cleaned with a wire wheel and drill. There is a reason head gaskets are jacketed.
Retorque when the head bolts are long and hot. That's when they are the loosest.
Torque to 45 foot lbs.
I never use the all copper gaskets anymore.
After a month or so I seem to have had bad luck with a couple of them.
First spray on two coats of spray gasket sealer, the copper looking stuff, let it dry five minutes and torque 'er down.
Retorque after 20 minutes of running and again when you get a chance. And then again.
Aaron, that is also when the head and block are long and hot. I was always told to retorque after everything has cooled down, at least a couple of times, 'cause the head gasket has conformed to the mating surfaces, meaning that it has 'collapsed' a bit when hot. Always worked for me. JMHO. Dave
so torque them all down to 45, warm up the engine, torque 3 or 4 and observe how much you can turn them. Then let the engine cool down for 6 hours and see how much the remaining bolts turn.