Truefire help

Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration
Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Truefire help
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 01:23 am:

So, a couple of weeks ago i decided to cleanup all my ignition connections. Removed 'em one at a time and replaced on coilbox and timer. New Champion X's and new plug wires. Missing,backfiring hard to start. Plugs were gaped at about .43/.44, book sez .45. Checked spark off plugs to head, two good,fat yellow sparks , one med and one thin blue. I'm thinking to check wires with motometer. What should the meter read on plug wires and timer/coilbox loom ?? What else should I check Coilbox contacts are good. Ran great before I cleaned things
George confused n L.A.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 01:39 am:

Other George,

First off, reread something...

I'd never gap an 'X' more than .030 under any circumstances. It puts too much strain on everything else if it even does decide to jump the gap in the first place under compression. To gap where you found them preset is like asking the spark to 'jump' a much higher hurdle and if it can, it will jump to something else first. I'd do a regap, and try again.

Then if you have issue start to look for another cause. Wires are wires and usually a simple continuity check is all you need as long as they are wire core wires and not something fancy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 01:50 am:

The .045 gap sounds large to me too but the instructions say, "For best performance the spark
plugs should be set at a .045” gap."

http://www.true-fire.com/True-Fire%20Installation%206%20to%2012.pdf

I've never worked with a True-Fire system but here are the basic trouble shooting instructions:

MAINTENANCE/TROUBLE SHOOTING
Your True-Fire Electronic Ignition System requires no maintenance. If for any reason, your engine starts running rough it
would be a good idea to do the following:
• Check to make sure the coil box contacts are clean and making good contact with the coil module.
• Check to make sure your coil is securely held down in the coil box.
• Check the screws and nuts on the timer module and tighten slightly if required.
• Make sure all of the wires in the ignition system are clean and securely connected.
• Check spark plug condition & gap setting.

Other then that, I would go through the installation instructions checking everything.

Good luck,
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Sanders-Auburn Al on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 01:51 am:

George, Make sure the inside of the timer cover is clean. Sounds like a timing problem, I believe I gaped my plugs at .35.....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 06:55 am:

True Fires are particularly susceptible to failure if there are any bad connections. The coils will burn out quickly if for example you turn the car over with the spark plug wires disconnected. When they fail on tour you lose two cylinders and then you have to ride the vulture wagon. Unless of course you keep a spare True Fire under the seat.

I would not set the plug gap over .025" regardless of the instructions.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Seager on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 09:58 am:

Nice post Royce the forum can always count on you to post more BS. I would expect a more intelligent post from you. Course I shouldnt be surprised as you never miss a chance to bash anything that is not stock. Stir the pot some more. It would be really nice if you could just help the guy and not criticize what he is running. After all i have noticed a few coils runners ride the vulture wagon. Be nice. Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 12:55 pm:

Royce did help the guy, he said to try a .025 gap and warned about open connections being a problem. The other stuff he said was also true. I don't see any bashing here.

Wait for a water pump discussion before you take him out to the shed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Doolittle on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 01:24 pm:

Royce was correct on every count. No BS here.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Doolittle on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 01:43 pm:

Let me add to my post. I am not bashing the TruFire system because 2 of my cars ran on them for 7 years out of necessity because neither ran more than a few months after returning from the engine re-builder, who was unable to make permanent repairs on the magneto.

My family had lots of fun in the cars because of the TruFire system for the 7 years and quite a few tours.

This summer, with help of some friends, we re-built the magneto systems *the right way* and I'm proud to say the TruFires are boxed up and on my parts shelf.

And Royce's statement "When they fail on tour you lose two cylinders and then you have to ride the vulture wagon." is true because the system fires 2 cylinders at once.

My apology to George for straying from his thread.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Mullin on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 02:24 pm:

SInce you rebuilt your coil box, you might want to look at these also:

1. Are the spring contacts on the inside of the front wall of the coil box installed correctly? They come in both right and left hand versions. This was to adjust the spacing of the bolts through the firewall to the slightly smaller "new" 1914 standard coils. These are where the - (negative / ground) voltage from the timer is applied. The springy part should line up with the center of the contacts on the coils / True Fire.

2. Is the center contact wire on the bottom contact strip insulated and soldered to the strip? This is where the + (plus) voltage is applied.

3. Are the "BAT" and "MAG" wires soldered to their respective contact posts?

4. Is the True Fire unit seating all the way down in the coil box so it makes positive contact with the bottom strip? This is just as important for normal coils too.

5. In general, look for any signs of fraying where a wire may short to ground. Check and see if one lead at the timer is pinched behind the keeper spring.

PS: I also use about a .032" gap on my Champion Xs.

Tom
Usually Detroit, but Gunbarrel, Colorado, this week.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Gelfer, Milwaukee WI on Tuesday, November 06, 2012 - 02:48 pm:

I've been running a True Fire for 5 years. They do need a bigger gap. Try .035 to .040. Something not mentioned is the magnetic "trigger" button that is bolted to the end of the camshaft. After one year, the bolt got a bit loose on mine. I decided to put some Loctite blue on the threads this time. They say not to over tighten, as it is plastic, and can distort. I check it every spring, and it has not budged. No troubles, no misfires, no adjustments. Just miles and miles of T driving fun.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Thursday, November 08, 2012 - 11:47 pm:

UPDATE: Re-adjusted plugs to .33/34 and she fires up strong and hitting evenly on all four. Sometimes it's the simplest things. Test run tomorrow. Thanks for everything guys, yer all great.
George n L.A.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, November 09, 2012 - 08:22 am:

George,

I suspect that you have arcing across a bad connection on one of the high tension leads either inside the True Fire box or at one of your coil box connections. A True Fire uses two coils from a 1990's Ford Ranger pickup truck inside the box. The True Fire build quality is iffy at best. Take a look inside the True Fire box for arcing or loose connections.

Also are the spark plug wires the good quality ones with the wire soldered to the ends? If not you need to solder the ends. Arcing on the high tension side will kill your True Fire. As the purchaser you are now in charge of quality control and warranty.

If this happens to you on tour with a True Fire box you burn out the coil, resulting in the loss of two cylinders:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George Clipner-Los Angeles on Saturday, November 10, 2012 - 12:34 am:

Thanks Royce, read that on old posts that I researched. Took the box apart, all was solid. Plug cables wire core and heavily soldered.


Posting is currently disabled in this topic. Contact your discussion moderator for more information.
Topics Last Day Last Week Tree View    Getting Started Formatting Troubleshooting Program Credits    New Messages Keyword Search Contact Moderators Edit Profile Administration