Engine trouble

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Engine trouble
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike dixon on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 08:58 am:

got the 27 tudor running, gas tank cleaned out, runs good once I get it started, once it has ran for a while it starts extremly good, but getting it started cold is a big problem, any suggestions? thanks in advance


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 09:40 am:

Cold starting easily is a matter of technique. Most Model T's start easily when cold if you do the following precisely every time:

1. With the key off and gas turned on, pull the choke wire and then pull up on the crank handle two to four 1/4 turns from 9:00 to 12:00. This puts a charge in each cylinder. Don't do it more than four times or it can flood the engine, making starting impossible or at least very difficult.

2. Be sure the spark lever is all the way up, fully retarded. Pull the throttle down half way or more. If the car has a Vaporizer carburetor, pull fully down, wide open.

3. Turn on the ignition and start the car.

Like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9G15FdgsCU


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 09:43 am:

Yep, more pulls with the choke rod out. Also check your float level in the carb.

Experiment with the throttle opening when starting cold. My T likes LOTS of throttle when starting cold.

I assume youv'e checked the timing?

Also stick your tongue out while cranking ( I find it helps).

Seriously they're all different, keep experimenting till you find the magic combination of choke and throttle.

Good luck

schuh

PS after you've figured out the warm and cold start you can worry about the midway thing, like if its been off for a half hour or so!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 10:14 am:

Sparkplug gap: too much gap makes hard starting.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 10:40 am:

Good advice from the others. Mine likes key off, about 1/3 throttle, spark all the way up, pull choke, and 2 full revolutions on the crank. (I guess this works well because it gets fuel/air into every cylinder since each gets one intake stroke with two turns). Then release choke, turn on key and give it a 1/4 pull. Mine starts pretty much every time first pull this way when cold. Occasionally I even get a "free start".

Good luck!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 11:21 am:

I agree with Bud

Each car is different. On two of my cars I have Holly NH carburetors and with them it takes about 3 pulls up on the crank with the choke out then a few with no choke, then I turn on the key and sometimes get a free start, if not, I pull up once and it usually starts. One of those even needs one pull with choke when it is warm if it sat for more than 5 minutes.

The other car has a Kingston L4. I made the mistake of choking it like the others and flooded it. The one with the Kingston one 1/4 pull with choke and one pull without choke starts it when cold. When it is warm, no choke at all.

I think the best way to find out how your car reacts would be one 1/4 pull then turn on the key and try another 1/4 pull or two 1/4 pulls without choke. If it doesn't start next time do 2 1/4 pulls and repeat the above with key on. Add another 1/4 pull if that doesn't do it. When you find out how many pulls it takes, do that every time you try to start when cold.

One other thing I failed to mention. If you find the car starts but stops before you can get around to advance the spark, try opening the fuel adjustment about 1/4 turn before cranking, then after it runs a minute or two adjust back to the original position.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 12:02 pm:

One thing no one has mentioned, open the spray needle maybe half to one turn, also open the throttle lever down maybe half way before choking. Well that how mine likes it! :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 01:33 pm:

Mike, you didn't mention if your car still had a vaporizer installed. Your complaint was a classic with a vaporizer carb.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike dixon on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 09:35 pm:

dont know whether the car has a vaporizer or not, could it be the spark plugs? could someone put up a pic of a correctly gaped plug? it lookd like a regular carb to me sucks air from the side, and the side is open, I can see the choke thanks in advance


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Sunday, November 11, 2012 - 11:06 pm:

Mike, all 4 of mine require a very quick choke upon hitting the starter.
Two things you might want to check: the terminal on the starter switch that feeds the ignition system and all the connections on the terminal block on the firewall.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Tuesday, November 13, 2012 - 08:23 am:

Mike, this is the vaporizer carb that would be correct for your 1927 engine.

Carb

Many people have replaced it with the Holly NH Carb. That is what I use.

I find my engine starts easily when warm with no choke action at all.

The engine also starts best or easiest with 4 notches of spark and gas.

I always give it the benefit of doubt and try the starter first, if it don't start immediately, I give the choke a quick pull.

If the choke is held on, the engine will flood and not start.

The best recovery is to pull the gas all the way down and continue cranking.

Each engine starts with different settings and procedures. You will have to experiment and find which one works best for your engine.

One advantage to the vaporizer carb is that the exhaust manifold is not so apt to warp to where it can not be removed, replaced and reused "as is."


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