I'm going to rebuild the driveshaft and rear end in my '26 and was hoping to get some advice on which parts to use. I know that babbitt pieces have to get replaced but after that there are a lot of options. For the driveshaft there is the stock brass front bushing that needs to be face reamed to set the end play or the new style roller bearing. At the other end is the original style shaft bearing, modern non-adjustable or the adjustable. Getting into the differential itself there are bronze, steel or roller thrust bearings. The modern seals are an obvious choice but after that I'm not sure which approach to use on parts.
First, get the MTFCA axle book by Glen Chaffin. You should also get the Ford shop manual if you don't already have it.
I tried using the original style pinion bearing and sleeve once. Never again. Any future rear axles I rebuild will get the Fun Projects pinion bearing. If you choose that better route, you can consult John about whether the adjustable or non-adjustable version would suit you best.
If you do use the Fun Projects pinion bearing, you can forget about facing the drive shaft bushing. The FP kit eliminates the need for that.
The thrust washer choices are bronze or or a needle bearing substitute. The bronze washers will outlast you, while the needle substitute introduces superfluous complexity subject to early failure. That's an easy choice.
Here's a little entertainment showing the last part of a rear axle job: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ&list=UUFVx528ORtpDgCPJXbFCA6w&index=1 8&feature=plcp.
Very instructive video, Steve, and quite clearly video taped. Thanks for posting it. I do have one question about your assembly, though, pursuant to the question I just posted a few minutes ago.
I noticed that you placed radius rod lock washers on front of the U-joint housing's "ears", behind the front pair of nuts. From what I understand, weren't these lock washers (if used) placed between the back of the housing "ear" and the rear nut? I'm confused whether a lock washer would be necessary on the front part of the radius rods when a castellated nut and cotter pin are used here. That nut ain't going anywhere with the cotter pin in place. Wouldn't these lock washers do more service keeping the uncastellated rear nuts from backing off or tightening up against the U-joint housing "ears"? As my posted question states, no two sources seem to agree on where or even IF these lock washers are to be used. Enquiring minds want to know!
TIA...
Marshall
Steve, your post - video's are fun and interesting, keep em coming. I am just putting the rear end of my TT back together. The you tube video was just in time. Liked the TT bell's and your Dodge truck too, thanks for posting.
The original driveshaft roller bearing and sleeve, if in good condition, will work just fine. I have rebuilt two rear axles with them and have had no problems. The driveshaft is not a hardened surface and the upper bushing should be used, not a roller bearing. If you can measure the end play in the driveshaft, then mike the flange thickness on the bushing when you remove it then you can determine the new bushing flange thickness before you put it in. It does not have to be perfect as the pinion thrust is always toward the engine. If you are concerned buy two new bushings and fix any error with the first one. The bronze thrust washers should be used. The Babbit washers did not have a wear problem, only an age and disintegration one. You will need to face the thrust washer thickness in order to set the pinion mesh.
Get the MTFCA rear axle book before you start as suggested earlier.
Marshall, you're right. I should have put them on the backside, if they belong at all.
Thanks for the follow-up, Steve. Maybe someone will answer my posted question about those pesky lock washers and we can both breathe easier!
Once again, GREAT video!
Marshall
Good and essential advice, the MTFCA rear axle book will really help. It did for me. You cant read to many manuals or books to repair Model T's.
Steve....That video is very helpful.
I do have the Ford "bible" as it is called and the MTFCA axle book but the new parts that are listed in the catalogs were not around when these were written. I will follow the advice here and feel a lot more confident on this part of the project now..Thanks
A parts list I made for my rebuild. May be a usefull guide when planning your job. More or less parts may be required depending on what you find on tear down.
Gary